My 1977 Albin 25 Deluxe rebuild thread

[hetek]

Update time!

This one is a "Kodak moment" in my book (for those that remember what a Kodak moment was). It is also a major hurdle completed.

The floor framing is finished with a sealer coat of epoxy, a coat of primer and two coats of topside epoxy paint (Petit) in "Hatteras white". Also, all hoses, harnesses and wires are anchored to the framing with zip tie anchors. And... the control cables are in!

20180913_190248.jpg

And here is that "Kodak moment" I promised: The floor is complete too! Same paint schedule as the frame but with an additional coat of non-skid epoxy paint in the field and two coats of epoxy sealer on the underside. The panel borders were left glossy for a fancy finished look.

20180913_203150.jpg

Next up: Prop shaft install! (My flax packing arrives UPS tomorrow)

[WillieC]

Very nice, Jon! You have to be pleased with all that progress. Have you been able to run the engine in the boat yet?

[tribologist]

Wow! Looks fantastic!

[hetek]

Thanks guys! ...in more ways than one. It's the work you guys do that helps to keep me motivated and making progress.

Funny how tribologist and I use the same "zip tie anchor" method for fastening the harnesses and wiring. Great minds think alike!

WillieC - I'm surprised you didn't' pick up on the gray thing where my prop shaft should be. It's actually a piece of ABS pipe that I stuck in there so while I was routing hoses and wires, I would know where to avoid the spinning thing in the future. That will be coming out this weekend, when the real shaft goes in!

Never had the engine running in the boat yet, but I have run it on a test stand in my driveway. Here's a YouTube video:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4biETfTllOM

I just saw that it has almost 10k views! Whaaa???!!!

[ssrig]

Looks great! That is all so neat compared to whats under the floor boards on mine, very nice work and should last with all that epoxy.

You have some hinges on the motor cover to the first floor board, does the board hinge up? I cant imagine that the whole motor cover is hinged at that point, and if the board hinges up is it in the way when removing the motor cover?

[ssrig]

you should have a double clamp on that PVC pipe!

[Dieselram94]

Looks awesome!!! I wish mine looked that nice!!! Something for me to shoot for!

[hetek]

Actually, the whole engine cover does hinge up. It also has the smaller hatch on the top/aft of the lid.

When I bought the boat there was no framing or floorboards in the cockpit at all. Not even scraps. I had to invent something on my own. I did see that the PO had hinges there and I thought that might be convenient so I just went with it.

The hinges have removable pins so the whole cover can be removed. If I need to remove the small floorboard, it simply lifts up out of the aluminum saddles I made. All the framing sits in these saddles and no tools are required to remove the pieces, except for some cutters for the wire ties.

Yeah, I went a bit crazy with the double-clamping, but if there was room on the hose barb, why not? I'll definitely double-clamp the stuffing box hose!

[DesertAlbin736]

WillieC - I'm surprised you didn't' pick up on the gray thing where my prop shaft should be. It's actually a piece of ABS pipe that I stuck in there so while I was routing hoses and wires, I would know where to avoid the spinning thing in the future. That will be coming out this weekend, when the real shaft goes in!

And, it's also a good way to rough in the engine alignment prior to installing the real shaft.

Looks great! That is all so neat compared to whats under the floor boards on mine, very nice work and should last with all that epoxy.

Ditto! Mine looks as ratty as the African Queen by comparison. A real inspiration for my 4 year overhaul schedule this fall & winter. Right now it's too hot out here to do a damn thing on the boat, 105 at 2PM! And we're halfway through September! Guaranteed over 120 inside the cockpit & cabin. 107 forecast for tomorrow, nothing below 100 until next Wednesday at least.

Yeah, I went a bit crazy with the double-clamping, but if there was room on the hose barb, why not? I'll definitely double-clamp the stuffing box hose!

No, that's not crazy. Nothing wrong with double clamping. But don't use cheap 304 stainless non-marine grade clamps where the worm drive screws rust up. As long as you're at it, use good clamps. "But Honey, IT'S FOR THE BOAT! You don't want those hoses to spring a leak, do you? "

I like the location of your primary fuel filter with isolation valves. Mine is under the floorboard in front of the tank & a real PITA to service. Should also be enough space to mount 12V & manual bilge pumps in that space behind the engine. For example:

DSCN1991.JPG

My only other question is, is that your only battery, or is there a house bank located somewhere else?

I remember back when you were asking about frame locations. How far you've come since then!

A25 floor.jpg

[hetek]

DA- I recall your engineering sketch on my photo. It was a great help!

I didn't even have so much as a toothpick left of the original wood and I had to make it up as I went. The only "major" deviation I did was to go with a single level floor, rather than the raised floor at the helm. I can always frame in a box later if my plan doesn't pan out.

Yes, just a single dual-purpose group 24 battery for now, but the platform can hold two group 27's, down the road.

[DesertAlbin736]

I would definitely go with a pair of Group 27's tied in parallel for a house bank, OR a pair of 6V golf cart batteries wired in series. Golf cart batteries are usually about 200 amp hours each at 6V, so a pair in series gives you that much at 12V. By contrast I have three Group 27 dual purpose AGMs, one for start battery and the other two tied in parallel as the house bank. Each of those are good for 90 amp hours.

Also, if you haven't done so already, converting cabin lights from incandescent to LED can help if you have plans to spend time out on the hook & away from shore power. An LED can cut current consumption by 2/3rds compared to incandescent.

What about your toilet plumbing? Do you have a holding tank or going with porta potty? A couple years ago I swapped out the 9 gallon holding tank that was mounted outboard of the batteries & installed a 20 gallon holding tank that takes up that entire space where the batteries used to be. But I still have the old 9 gallon tank, which would obviously fit your boat if you might be interested in it. The tank is used, but in good condition. You would of course have to raise the floorboard level at the helm.

This was the old battery & holding tank setup where you have room for three group 27 batteries.

Battery Well 1.jpg

This is the new tank side by side with the old 9 gallon tank, which was good for about a weekend between pumpouts.

DSCN3409.JPG

And the new tank installation, which if one is careful can handle 4 or 5 days of use by two people. But of course means relocating the batteries & a whole lot of extra wiring work. But for weekend use where you have ready access to pumpout facilities the 9 gallon works fine.

DSCN3420.JPG

[hetek]

All good advice there DA. Nobody, and I mean nobody, wants to find that their batteries have died on the hook or, even worse, the holding tank is full!

Been there. Done that. Never want to be there to do it again.

She's a work in progress and I still don't know which direction it will go. My intent as of today is to get her "running and driving" so I can at least go day sailing. I can always outfit for cruising later.

[Dieselram94]

Speaking of holding tanks, what’s the best way to tell if it’s close to full? I assume get a visual and see liquid level through side of tank? I’ve never dealt with a holding tank or a pump out before.

[hetek]

Here's my cutlass bearing/shaft/zinc/prop/nut/rudder mock-up.

20180916_104419.jpg

The coupler end of the shaft is set and this is where I end up at the wet end. There's 3/4" between the end of the shaft (and nut) and the leading edge of the rudder. That's the clearance, Clarance!

You can see how one of those egg-shaped zincs wouldn't fit.

I did have maybe 1/4 inch to play with but there are several factors to consider:

- The cutlass bearing needs water for lubrication so there has to be a gap between it and the zinc.
- The zinc needs to seat on the shaft correctly (and not overhang the taper).
- The taper, key and prop are a given.
- The threads for the prop nut(s) and the space at the end for a cotter pin.
- Stay far enough away from the rudder!

In hindsight, I think I could have fit the SAE standard "double nut and cotter pin through the shaft cap" arrangement, but barely. I chose to go the Euro single nut (castle) method and give me a bit more breathing room. But what if I moved the shaft way forward and used a nut anode instead? Might work, but I'll try this first. I can always cut the shaft shorter if I want to go that way.

Which reminds me of a saying my carpenter brother uses:

"No matter how many times I cut it, it's still too short!"

[ssrig]

Had a few sayings like that, “I cut it three times and it’s still too short”
And my favourite “you hammer like lightning! Never strike twice in the same place!”

I think just getting a zinc on there is the most important, front or back, the collar zincs seem meatier. Are the holes on your cutlets all the way through? If they are maybe that is another source for water to enter.
I kinda like how you have the mock up now but I have not seen another albin with a washer ahead of the nut, do you need that?