My Craigslist A25

[ednlorna]

I'm no welder, but these seem a bit sloppy!

[kerrye]

Cutting wheel is perfect. Those welds look like something I would do:) I do know you don't want to breathe the fumes which result from welding galvanized steel.

[kerrye]

Notice the clamping system over the square post on my V bunk which uses U-bolts to hold the post to the frame. You can probably buy that kind of system for your posts at ETrailer.com

[WillieC]

A sawzall with good long metal cutting blades. Clean it up with a grinder. Then again, it's never too late to learn new skills. But a little skill with a torch under the boat is prudent. Paint newly cut galvanized with cold galv in a spray can when you grind it down to where you want it.

I am amazed at how little welding, if any, is on my trailer. Like much of what I continue to learn about boat ownership, with a little bit of gumption and cautious use of the internet, we DIY guys can go far. Sometimes we get it right.

My comments about having the sacrificial zinc were somewhat tongue-in-cheek. I'd have preferred to NOT have dragged anything. Lots of folks use bullet shaped zincs/anodes on the skeg, which would slide easier and still act as a "curb feeler". I just have to watch elevation changes more closely. Cruising down the freeway is no problem.

You do have the 90 degree fitting that attaches the rudder to the skeg, correct? Those positions are very fixed. Also consider servicing your rudder seal while the boat is high enough off the ground.

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=10756&p=70074&hili ... eal#p70074

Here's another link to my bottom paint job and removing the boat from the trailer.

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9903&hilit=removin ... om+trailer

Be safe!

[ednlorna]

kerrye, I studied the clamping u-bolt set-up and if I can get the right size, I'll go that route. It seems straight forward enough, but I'm learning that projects that seem straight forward in my mind's eye never go as planned!

[ednlorna]

WillieC posted: "My comments about having the sacrificial zinc were somewhat tongue-in-cheek. I'd have preferred to NOT have dragged anything."

Yeah, I knew. I would still like a recommendation (or two) on what you guys think is a good trailering height for the lower stern end of the A 25.

No, I do not have the missing 90 degree connector for the rudder to skeg. The Albin came out of the water just like that. Even a raw recruit such as myself knew that weren't right! Another item to the fix it list. I wonder if those can be purchased or need to be fabricated?

I just watched that Jamestown Distributors video yesterday while researching what to do. It's a great video! I love JD and am a subscriber to their YouTube channel.

Thanks for the links to your previous work! Now I know a thing or two, like not to drive off the road after it rains in the Southwest!

[dkirsop]

The 90 degree connector is called a pipe head and is available here

http://mmd.nu/shop233/catalog/product_i ... f04aeace06

[WillieC]

Dave is good! Hear ye him! I was thinking that if you lost that piece you'd have to scrap the boat.

Several of us have purchased parts from albinmotors with great results. Don't freak at the 1300 price. BOAMSEK as they say in Sweden.

[ednlorna]

1,300 Swedish Krona, I wonder how much that is in 'merikan money?

"BOAMSEK"?

[ednlorna]

$154.73 USD

Thanks for the link, dkirsop!

[WillieC]

Bring Out Another Million SEK. (Swedish krona)

[ednlorna]

[FrankD]

I’m interested in #1220’s stern.
I have #1222 and it appears to be a transition stern from full displacement to the eventual semi displacement stern hull shape.
Ive attached a picture of 1222’s shape

[WillieC]

Yes, that curve is a definite missing link.

[kerrye]

Surprising that there were transitional steps. It would be interesting to know the sea trial results which moved the transitions along. Or did the mold get damage and the first repair wasn't successful?