Fuel Tank Access on 27FC

[boater_mike]

Maybe I'm just not looking hard enough, but I don;t see any access to the fuel tank on the 27FC. It looks like the top of the tank is under the cockpit sole, and the only way to access is to remove the tank through the back cabin (??). I'm asking due to a need to clean up my fuel. The fuel is (i'm guessing) 2+ years old. The other alternative is to keep change filters as needed - which is pretty expensive.

[Russell]

It would be a lot easier to hire a fuel polishing service if it is really necessary. They send two hoses down the fuel filler, one for withdrawal and one for return. When I purchased my previous 1997 28TE it had been sitting for a year and the broker added AlgaeX to the tank and I changed the Racor filter twice after which it stayed clean. I used ValvTect fuel and still do on my present boat.

[boater_mike]

I was thinking of hiring someone or even DIY, but I thought the filler hose would be too small to work through and they'd need better access to the tank. If not, then let them do it! Thanks!

[Sprig1]

If it's like my 84 the which is a 72 gallon tank. There is three baffles about a 1/4 inch off the bottom. I don't think having the fuel polished would clean the whole tank. I ended up taking the tank out and putting in access holes. There was about a 3/8 inch of a tar like substance and some water and some pitting of the aluminum

[boater_mike]

Yep...Mine has a 72 gallon tank. How did you get your tank out? And by access holes, do you mean in the cockpit sole or in the tank itself once you got it out?

[Sprig1]

Hi do you have the 4d61 in yours? Once I got the tank out I cut three, four inch access holes in top. The tank comes out thru the back cabin. It will come out with a lot off twisting and turning. Does your fuel gauge work? You might put a hatch above that in your cockpit sole. The whole for the gauge is probably two half inches. It gets you in one compartment of tank. Looking at my old post there was only quarter inch of slug in tank. Try search my posts a lot of information on fuel tanks and fuel systems. Hope this helps Chris

[boater_mike]

Thanks Chris for the pointers. Yes, I do have the 4d61 still, and the gauge does work. I'll look at your old posts. Thanks again. Mike

[DougSea]

Hi Mike,

I made my own polisher a number of years ago. Two long hoses, a big Racor, and a pump. All mounted on a piece of plywood.

The easiest way to use it is to pull from the engine fuel line and return to your deck fill. And just let it run. I picked up a mechanical timer switch at Home Depot and will let it run for 5-6 hours at a time. A tank the size of yours would be filtered several times in that period.

[tego]

Mike, I used Starbrite enzyme diesel fuel treatment to break the sludge before polishing. Pour it into your tank and circulate it with your pump for about an hour and then let it sit for at least a day or two. After that, I polished the fuel for about 3 hours each tank (I have two 50 gal tanks on my "87 27). I use 2 micron filters on my Racor and haven't ever had a filter problem in 3 100+ hour seasons. I change the filters every fall as PM. Ben

[boater_mike]

WOW! Thanks for the polishing pointers. I will try the enzyme as well. I

did finally get around to changing the RACOR fuel/water separator right after the pump (200FG model). Of about 1 liter i drained, about 1/3 of it was water. SO the next project is definitely a DIY polisher since I really do not want to take the tank out.

I also seems to have an alternator issue - battery voltage at the (NEW) batteries while engine is running (13.8 vdc). Turn the charger back on, and I hit 14.7VDC and 6-7 amps after being off shore power for a while. I should have a little over 14 VDC when running.

One more thing to fix before summer is full on.

I still think i got a good deal on the boat.


BTW Ben, did you ever get hauled and bottom done? I would have gladly paid the quoted $1300. NEVER again. I'm getting too old for this crap.

[tego]

Mike, I haven't hauled yet. The normal output on most older alternators is about 13.8 volts. When you get ready to polish, make sure you get as much water out of the tank as possible before you start the actual polishing. You can do this with a small hand pump and a small hose that'll reach the bottom of the tank at the lowest point. When you start seeing fuel in the hose, you are ready to start polishing. If you don't do this, a little bit of the water will mix with the fuel during the polishing and will settle out again later. By the way, after a 44' sailboat and a 44' trawler, this little 27' kid is easy and I'm going on 77 now. Ben

[DougSea]

I’ll try to get down to my storage unit and grab a few photos and specs off of my polisher setup in the next couple of days.

Agree with Ben on the enzyme treatment.

One more note - depending on your needs and current filter setup you don’t HAVE to buy a separate filter for this to work. If you have a decent size primary filter you can remove the engine side fuel line and connect your pump (you want a good pump. The cheap, small ones don’t get enough throughput) to that and then just return to your deck fill. Obviously changing out your filter element once done (if it’s dirty). I use mine as a transfer pump as well as a polisher, both for myself and the yacht club, so a complete system is what works for me. Food for thought.