Ron,
I can't. Thank you enough. I took advantage of a big sale at Defender last week and bought a Lewmar windlass. Now working on the installation. If the weather holds, I'll dewinterize this week. And yes, I'm planning on returning to Maine this summer (July-August?) then south for the winter. The shakedown cruise will be to Baltimore in May so Ted can get his post cancer treatment checkup. I'm looking forward to all your help.
Molly
PS: I don't know what hull number we are but the ID is AUL34119F686
• Welcome to https://albinowners.net, the new home of Albin Owners Group!
• You will need to log in here, and you may want to bookmark this site. If you don't remember your password, use the I forgot my password link to reset it.
• All content has been transferred from our previous site.
• Contact Us if you have any questions or notice a problem. If you're not receiving our email, include a phone number where we can text you.
• You will need to log in here, and you may want to bookmark this site. If you don't remember your password, use the I forgot my password link to reset it.
• All content has been transferred from our previous site.
• Contact Us if you have any questions or notice a problem. If you're not receiving our email, include a phone number where we can text you.
FAQ:
• Membership information
• Burgees
• How to post photos
• Membership information
• Burgees
• How to post photos
A34
-
- First Mate
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:02 pm
- Home Port: Kingman Yacht Center, Pocasset, MA
- Location: East Falmouth, Cape Cod, MA
Re: A34
Molly,
I am sure you will love the Lewmar. Attached is a picture showing how it looks on our bow and where installed by the boatyard in CT when we lived there. I felt it was too much for me to handle (aka, avoid taking responsibility if something goes wrong). Also sending a picture of the rudder for Paumanok. This bronze angle iron was installed by a company in CT specializing in rudders, props, etc. My problem with Paumanok from the start was a tendency to drift off course when using the autopilot and even constant correcting while steering by hand. I am wondering if this is true for other A34's. The logical answer was something is wrong with the autopilot. After extensive testing it was found to be working fine. I looked at the rudder size and wondered if it was too small from the boat (big boat, small rudder). After discussing with the prop pro's they calculated that the rudder is properly sized. They recommended a possible fix used in the past on another boat but offered NO guarantees. They said it might work to: (1) add more hydrologic pressure on the rudder to improve stability/tracking (2) have no effect on boat drag/speed. I agreed and Lo and Behold the boat tracked perfectly for hours of hands free driving and my attitude improved significantly. I pass this along for your information in case you find some instability in the steering of RECESS.
I will send more pic's and info after getting the last bolt out of the stanchion foot on starboard side of bow rail. The stanchion completely separated from the foot during one of the huge wind storms last month. A welder agreed to come and weld it back together but I have to get the foot off the deck. This is turning out to be a huge challenge.
Ron
PAUMANOK A34
Cape Cod
I am sure you will love the Lewmar. Attached is a picture showing how it looks on our bow and where installed by the boatyard in CT when we lived there. I felt it was too much for me to handle (aka, avoid taking responsibility if something goes wrong). Also sending a picture of the rudder for Paumanok. This bronze angle iron was installed by a company in CT specializing in rudders, props, etc. My problem with Paumanok from the start was a tendency to drift off course when using the autopilot and even constant correcting while steering by hand. I am wondering if this is true for other A34's. The logical answer was something is wrong with the autopilot. After extensive testing it was found to be working fine. I looked at the rudder size and wondered if it was too small from the boat (big boat, small rudder). After discussing with the prop pro's they calculated that the rudder is properly sized. They recommended a possible fix used in the past on another boat but offered NO guarantees. They said it might work to: (1) add more hydrologic pressure on the rudder to improve stability/tracking (2) have no effect on boat drag/speed. I agreed and Lo and Behold the boat tracked perfectly for hours of hands free driving and my attitude improved significantly. I pass this along for your information in case you find some instability in the steering of RECESS.
I will send more pic's and info after getting the last bolt out of the stanchion foot on starboard side of bow rail. The stanchion completely separated from the foot during one of the huge wind storms last month. A welder agreed to come and weld it back together but I have to get the foot off the deck. This is turning out to be a huge challenge.
Ron
PAUMANOK A34
Cape Cod
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. To view images, please register for a free account.
-
- Mate
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2017 6:46 am
- Home Port: Mathews, VA
Re: A34
Thanks, Ron. Have you given any thought about how to handle the large cockpit hatch. I need help lifting it. I'm thinking of cutting it in thirds running for and aft and using 2x6s to support the two cuts. Also, did you add insulation to the ice box when you added the refrigeration?Tks
RECESS
34' center cockpit fly bridge trawler
Chesapeake Bay
34' center cockpit fly bridge trawler
Chesapeake Bay
-
- First Mate
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:02 pm
- Home Port: Kingman Yacht Center, Pocasset, MA
- Location: East Falmouth, Cape Cod, MA
Re: A34
Molly, After three long late night town meetings (and getting home at midnight), I can finally think about something more fun. Here are a few responses:
1. Yes, the cockpit hatch is v heavy. You probably know that the hatch is secured with 4 rubber "hold-downs" at each corner. Lifting the hatch requires you to crawl into the bilge and release each. With that said I am having a hard time imagining how you would be able to cut the hatch and maintain its strength and stability. The edge of the hatch sits into a depressed groove which is why it is stable. We actually have a rug cut precisely to fit and having the two openings with cut flaps for bilge access. Works very well. To lift the hatch I remove the helm seat (and all the furniture) and carefully place a single 2x4 between the top lip and bottom groove. I then tie a line from the helm seat post to the center handrail for safety. This arrangement works well and is secure and safe. The hatch is up now. I will send a picture later today.
2. I did add insulation around the redesigned icebox for the isotherm. I bought solid insulation that was as thick as I could fit between the sink basin/sink cabinet wall and hull/sink basin spaces. There isn't much room. I believe it was 2" or maybe 3" thick insulation. I cut the pieces and used construction adhesive to adhere it to the icebox wall and tightened a "come-along" strap around it. All this is hard to do because it means reaching inside the cabinet with my back in a really awkward position. Also, couldn't see what I was doing on the far side of the icebox. Before cutting the insulation, I used cardboard templates to get a better idea of the sizes needed.
3. Another tidbit of information. I am sending pictures of what happened to the bow chock after a major hurricane hit the Cape.The first pictures is the chock and the second the new chock and cowling. What was a total shock is the cowling isn't solid fiberglass but hollow. The long screws to hold down the chock but only suspended in air. I filled the space with foam insulation, then drilled out the center foam so it could be filled with epoxy resin, redialed and the new chock/screws installed. Passing this along if the same thing happens to you.
Ron
Paumanok
1. Yes, the cockpit hatch is v heavy. You probably know that the hatch is secured with 4 rubber "hold-downs" at each corner. Lifting the hatch requires you to crawl into the bilge and release each. With that said I am having a hard time imagining how you would be able to cut the hatch and maintain its strength and stability. The edge of the hatch sits into a depressed groove which is why it is stable. We actually have a rug cut precisely to fit and having the two openings with cut flaps for bilge access. Works very well. To lift the hatch I remove the helm seat (and all the furniture) and carefully place a single 2x4 between the top lip and bottom groove. I then tie a line from the helm seat post to the center handrail for safety. This arrangement works well and is secure and safe. The hatch is up now. I will send a picture later today.
2. I did add insulation around the redesigned icebox for the isotherm. I bought solid insulation that was as thick as I could fit between the sink basin/sink cabinet wall and hull/sink basin spaces. There isn't much room. I believe it was 2" or maybe 3" thick insulation. I cut the pieces and used construction adhesive to adhere it to the icebox wall and tightened a "come-along" strap around it. All this is hard to do because it means reaching inside the cabinet with my back in a really awkward position. Also, couldn't see what I was doing on the far side of the icebox. Before cutting the insulation, I used cardboard templates to get a better idea of the sizes needed.
3. Another tidbit of information. I am sending pictures of what happened to the bow chock after a major hurricane hit the Cape.The first pictures is the chock and the second the new chock and cowling. What was a total shock is the cowling isn't solid fiberglass but hollow. The long screws to hold down the chock but only suspended in air. I filled the space with foam insulation, then drilled out the center foam so it could be filled with epoxy resin, redialed and the new chock/screws installed. Passing this along if the same thing happens to you.
Ron
Paumanok
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. To view images, please register for a free account.
-
- Mate
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2017 6:46 am
- Home Port: Mathews, VA
Re: A34
Thanks, Ron,
More helpful information. I'll give the engine hatch more thought. I'll live with the ice box for a while. It's held ice when we used it last fall. I'm off to the County superviser's budget meeting tonight. We need to fully fund our school system!
Molly
More helpful information. I'll give the engine hatch more thought. I'll live with the ice box for a while. It's held ice when we used it last fall. I'm off to the County superviser's budget meeting tonight. We need to fully fund our school system!
Molly
RECESS
34' center cockpit fly bridge trawler
Chesapeake Bay
34' center cockpit fly bridge trawler
Chesapeake Bay
-
- First Mate
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:02 pm
- Home Port: Kingman Yacht Center, Pocasset, MA
- Location: East Falmouth, Cape Cod, MA
Re: A34
Molly,
Because this thread was getting pretty long, I thought it best to start a new topic. See Misc A34 Projects. I am hoping other A34 owners will share their information, too. We'll have to wait and see. I will submit other problems/solutions in the days ahead.
Ron
"Paumanok"
Because this thread was getting pretty long, I thought it best to start a new topic. See Misc A34 Projects. I am hoping other A34 owners will share their information, too. We'll have to wait and see. I will submit other problems/solutions in the days ahead.
Ron
"Paumanok"