Getting stuffed

[NickScheuer]

Thanks, Sunsetrider! The hose resting just aft of the shaft seal was detached from the ball valve on purpose for the winter.

[Sunsetrider]

You could probably brighten the pic with your basic photo editor so that the details show better, but I can see what you mean.

[kerrye]

Yes, identical to mine with the slotted set screw.

[NickScheuer]

Better image; Kerry's suggestion.

[kerrye]

What's the metal loop on the bulkhead at the aft end of that compartment?

[Sunsetrider]

The black hose coming from below the shaft and dunking into the bilge - is that from a manual bilge pump?

[kerrye]

It looks identical to the hose on my manual bilge pump.

[NickScheuer]

I'll have to check what the black hose is tomorrow. It's probably the same as Sunsetrider's. Meanwhile, the stainless steel bracket at the left of my photo supports a wooden block which when inserted from above, stands about an inch above the cockpit sole. When the motor box is stood on its aft end in front of the aft cabin a wooden cleat on the aft end of the motor box engages the block in the bracket, which keeps the aft end of the motor box from sliding forward if bumped. (I hate it when that happens

[kerrye]

A hint on that manual bilge pump hose. Mine was just open hose at the end and it sucked up debris which caught in the flapper valve in the manual bilge pump causing it not to work. It was just a couple of pine needles. I took a 90" barbed irrigation fitting and put a 4" piece of irrigation hose on one end with a bunch of holes drilled in it. I then stuck the other end on the end of that manual bilge pump line and put it back down in the bilge. That 'filter' will keep a lot of debris out of the manual bilge pump mechanism.

[WillieC]

I took some old screen door fabric (not metal) doubled it over, made a sort of sock and tied it on the end of the hose. Good enough for keeping the crud out of the whale pump.

[Sunsetrider]

another good idea. thanks

[WillieC]

Yet another reason to check the shaft seal. This from the USCG:


united states coast guard

News Release
June 6, 2018
U.S. Coast Guard 13th District Public Affairs Office
Office: 206-220-7237
After hours: 206-605-4817



A Coast Guard crew aboard a 29-foot Response Boat-Small II from Coast Guard Station Chetco River assist a fisherman with his flooding vessel off the Chetco River entrance, Ore., June 6, 2018. A Coast Guard crew member boarding the flooding vessel with a portable dewater pump, but evacuated along with the fisherman after dewatering attempts failed. U.S. Coast Guard photo courtesy of Station Chetco River. The 29-foot commercial fishing vessel Roni J sinks off the Chetco River entrance, Ore., June 6, 2018. The owner and operator of the vessel had contacted the Coast Guard for assistance with the flooding, but was safely removed from the vessel after dewater attempts failed. U.S. Coast Guard photo courtesy of Station Chetco River. The 29-foot commercial fishing vessel Roni J sinks off the Chetco River entrance, Ore., June 6, 2018. The vessel sunk in water with an aproximate depth of 216 feet, and on scene Coast Guard boat crews reported minimal pollution and debris. U.S. Coast Guard photo courtesy of Station Chetco River.
Coast Guard rescues fisherman before vessel sank off Harbor, Ore.

NORTH BEND, Ore. — Coast Guard boat crews rescued a fisherman from his vessel before it sank about two and a half miles west of the Chetco River entrance, Wednesday.

One of the two boat crews from Coast Guard Station Chetco River removed the fisherman from the vessel and safely transported him back to shore after dewatering attempts failed.

Watchstanders at Coast Guard Sector North Bend and at the station were first notified around 10 a.m. when the fisherman requested assistance over VHF channel 16. He reported his 29-foot commercial fishing vessel, the Roni J, was flooding and the onboard dewatering pumps were unable to keep up with the rising water.

Two station boat crews launched in response, one crew aboard a 29-foot Response Boat-Small II and the other aboard a 47-foot Motor Life Boat.

Once on scene, a station member boarded the fishing vessel along with a portable dewatering pump. They were able to start the pump, but at one point the water shifted, forcing them to relocate, and they were unable to find a new spot before the water had risen too high.

The fisherman reported that the water may have been coming in through the vessel's shaft seal.

No report of injuries. A light fuel sheen and some debris was reported in the water. The boat crews worked to remove as much of the debris as possible.

The vessel sank in water with a depth of approximately 216 feet and with a max potential of 60 gallons of fuel aboard.

-USCG-

[NickScheuer]

Since my Dripless Seal has a slotted plug instead of a zerk fitting, I got a quart of SAE 70-90 gear oil for a refill. However, when I removed the plug there was a thin layer of grease right under where the plug had been which looked like good "greenish" wheel bearing grease. Removing that, I could see the prop shaft, and when poking a Q-tip down either side it came out black. Feeling no resistance on the Q-tip, I figure the chamber is more-or-less empty.

My questions are these: Should I refill with grease? Lacking a zerk fitting, I could just push it in by hand. Or should I pour in the gear oil? Or should I pour in some mineral spirits, stir it with a Q-tip to dissolve the remaining grease, then blow it out with air before adding new oil or grease?

[dkirsop]

Do not over lubricate the dripless seal. Too much lubricant will result in the forward seal being pushed out of its housing. A soft white grease is the go to product when the seal is in need of repair and will allow a couple of years more use prior to replacing the seals in the housing. When new, the dripless seal is lubricated with lower gear lubricant. It does not take much and only needs to cover the lower half of the shaft. We are talking 10-20cc's here. If using grease, no more than a half inch strip from a squeeze tube on your finger. You need to use grease with a low temperature melting point so it will flow into the housing as it warms up. In normal operation the housing will be warm to touch but not so hot as you can't touch it. Your quart of gear oil will last your life time and that of the next owner. New seals can be purchased from any bearing supply house.

[kerrye]

My housing reads about 90 degrees f when in use