Getting stuffed

[Sunsetrider]

It sounds like I should dismantle it to check on the condition of things inside. (I hate it when that happens,)

[dkirsop]

If it is not leaking then it's fine. Just keep a piece of oil absorbent pad under the seal and see if any marking occurs. If it does just keep an eye on the lubrication. These seals won't undergo catastrophic failure. A worn seal can still perform well for a couple of years with just the occasional addition of a soft grease. But I would recommend against using the grease nipple, they are not designed to be pressurized.

[Beta Don]

It sounds like liquid lubricant would be best - SAE 75W-90 hypoid gear oil or something similar. Loosen the clamps, remove the plug, fill it to the top and then turn the seal 90 degrees and let whatever oil wants to run out, then put the plug back in, turn it vertical again and retighten the clamps. That way you'll know it's half full and not over or under filled

I've never used this particular seal, but every other 'dripless shaft seal' I've used all mention that water cooling is a must, so burping it sounds like a very good idea, especially for trailer boaters. The seal I bought for my A27 had a 'vent tube' built in so it had a way to get any trapped air out from behind the seal without having to manually burp it

Don

[Sunsetrider]

All good ideas - thanks. Still unsure why there is a grease nipple if it’s unwise to use it. Maybe when I burp it I will be able to determine the interior condition somewhat. Or when I discover what the “plug” is.

[dkirsop]

Don't fill it to the top! That will guarantee problems. Half-full only at maximum. In this case less is definitely better than more.

[NickScheuer]

I have what appears to be the same brand of Dripless Shaft Seal in our 1976 Albin-25 Deluxe, and i too, have never done anything to it in the 7 years we've owned the boat. Does anyone know what brand the seal is? I have no documentation which might tell me where to go for details concerning maintenance.

We have a problem which urgently needs to be dealt with; a leak which will fill the bilge almost to the floorboards over 24 hours, were it not for the bilge pumps. In a month or so we will be able to launch in our local river and look for the leak, starting with a dry bilge.

[kerrye]

Is the leak from the shaft seal? Based on what I have learned, there are two seals in the system which can be removed and replaced once the whole seal is removed from the shaft. Those seals are typically available at local (bearing?) suppliers according to what I've been told. Is the bilge plug sealed tightly?

[NickScheuer]

PS: Our Albin lives on it's trailer.

[NickScheuer]

Can't seem to get the photo posting procedure to work here. (never have a prob with other forums) Is there any possibility that the shaft seal shown in the OP is original equipment? A look through miscl paperwork, manuals, and product literature that came with my boat does not reveal anything concerning a new shaft seal.

[Sunsetrider]

Nick, is yours the same as mine as in my first post?

[dkirsop]

Wow, that's a lot of water! You have probably already looked at through hulls and sea cocks so I won't go there. Given the amount of water the first thing I would look at is the wet exhaust system - from the engine manifold back to the transom. Make sure the hose is intact and all connections are tight. Look for hot spots, check for cracks in elbow where the hose connects to the engine, make sure all clamps are tight and that the connection at the transom discharge is solid. Rig your engine so you can run it on the trailer and look for leaks.

The original Albin shaft seal was probably made by Albin. They used to manufacture industrial pumps and engines before they made boats. Not much to add on what has already been said on this thread in terms of information. I'll post a picture of mine in a bit. If you are going to take this seal off you will have to also drop the rudder in order to slide the shaft back enough to remove the seal - the rudder shaft is another potential leak. If you can't source replacement seals locally they are available from Albin Motor in Sweden.

The rudder shaft seal consists of a small O-ring near the top of the shaft. It is not hard to pull and replace. It's located about an inch down from the top. Lots of info here on the seal viewtopic.php?f=28&t=10756

[kerrye]

If it lets water in it should also let water out. Have you tried filling the bilge on the trailer and seeing if you can detect a leak on the outside?

[NickScheuer]

Yes, Sunsetrider, mine is exactly the same as what you show in the original post, except where you show a grease fitting on top of the bronze casting, mine has a hex head bolt. I have a photo but cannot seem to figure out the procedure for posting it.

[Sunsetrider]

You tap full editor, then attachments, then add files, then browse to your photo and dole click it.

[NickScheuer]

sEE IF IT WORKED THIS TIME