Baitwell Pump

[Yearwood]

The baitwell pump on our 28' TE is an Attwood 500 (500gph supposedly) and has been replaced once and now has failed again. In researching (and formerly testing) its characteristics I find that capacity falls off rapidly with discharge head and I plan to replace it with a better unit. Any recommendations?

Thanks

Don

[JackK]

I burned out the pump through my own stupidity. I turned on the pump with the seacock closed, blew the fuse, replaced it and blew the pump before realizing my mistake.

The local dealer replaced the pump for me with a Rule cartridge pump. I will have to take a look to see the actual size. The good news with the cartridge style is that if I have a brain cramp again, you can pop out the old and drop in a new one.

I will try to remember and take a picture of the setup while at the boat tomorrow.

Jack

[Yearwood]

Jack

Thanks. I'd appreciate the info.

I looked at pumps at West Marine today and thought to minimize work I'd best take some measurements on the boat. While there I removed the pump, freed-up the impeller. lubricated it and got it working. However, it is such a poor pump that it will not operate unless primed by operating the boat. Once so primed it continues to function. At some point I've got to replace it again and would prefer a better solution.

Regards

Don

[Rx-scape28]

My original baitwell pump was a Mayfair cartridge pump when it failed tried others but went back to the now Johnson same as mayfair with replacement cartridges.
The cartridges are the same bilge pump up to 1250 gph or baitwell cartridge 500 and 750gph. I think you will find with all the hight of head will make a lot of difference in the actual volume pumped no matter what pump , also size of hose and any constrictions as sharp bends or fittings. I have used a 1250 cartridge which draws 5 amps on a 5 amp circuit. IT overflowed the baitwell as the drain does not handle that amount of water.
I now have a couple of repacement cartridges 500gph and 750gph got on sale at around 15.00 each 500 draws 2 amps and 750 3 amps, the 1000 gph is 4 amps. but with repluming with 1 inch hose and no sharp bends and fittings these are adequate.
Rx-scape28 TE

[Yearwood]

My problem is on the suction side where the pump will not pull water through the clear thru hull. One it is primed (by running the boat ahead at a good speed) it pumps fine. I would like something with a better net positive suction head but cannot find any ratings at all on these cheap things.

[Rx-scape28]

on my pump the impeller is below the water line, the pump is attached directly to the shut off on the through hull, as water will flow into the boat with the cartridge out and valve open. one pump I tried had a 4 inch riser putting the impeller above the water line. with that had same problems you are having.
Lee Rx-scape28

[Mariner]

Yeah, I don't think baitwell pumps are usually self-priming. They are intended to be placed below the waterline.

[Yearwood]

As I was thinking about this earlier perhaps the solution is to cut the pvc on the intake side so that the pump is lowered ... or taking the easy way out simply keep priming it by running ahead.

[Mariner]

Does your boat have a saltwater wash? If you filled the baitwell (or even just the bottom of it) with water, wouldn't it backflow into the pump and essentially prime it for you? Perhaps just dumping a bucket of seawater into the well would do this? You'd have to be pretty quick with the switch to ensure it didn't all drain out, but it's probably easier than modifying the plumbing.

[Yearwood]

Thanks. Great idea. Don't use the s.w. washdown pump but easy enough to do. Could also do the same with fresh water from aft hose by transom door.

[Rx-scape28]

The water would drain out the outlet the baitwell inlet is near the top, you could run water down there with a hose.
I did not use the pump from westmarine, did not like the pvc extention not threaded very thin pvc if it cracked or could be broken off would be below water line. I think it was a Rule baitwell pump.
Lee

[Yearwood]

Lee

Thanks. The thought occurred to me last night,

[Mariner]

Aren't baitwells usually fed in from the bottom and then empty out an overflow at the top? Otherwise, how do you ensure a consistent water level?

[Pitou]

Aren't baitwells usually fed in from the bottom and then empty out an overflow at the top? Otherwise, how do you ensure a consistent water level?

The baitwells are fed just above the the overflow. This inlet has a removable, adjustable spray type nozzle that creates some aeration for the baits. A couple inches below is the overflow that continually allows for fresh seawater to be introduced to the well. When done for the day just reach in and pull the bottom plug and drain. I am still running the original Mayfair cartridge pump screwed directly into the seacock without any sort of standpipe. The pump is positioned completely below the water line and self primes.

[Russell]

The Albin bait wells are not well designed for the serious fisherman. The spray comes in at the top where it will not be very effective for mixing and there is no light. A good bait well should have the have the entry for the water at the bottom and angled so it starts a circular flow. The tank ideally will be round to get good flow which is necessary to keep some bait fish alive, such as menhaden. The light is useful to net the bait at night but also to keep them from changing colors if kept in the dark. I am not sure how important that is or how quickly they can change back when brought out into the light but it was mentioned in an article I read about good bait wells.