Freshwater Tank Access / Low Pressure - 35TE

[tristan35]

Hi,

I have a newly acquired 2002 Albin 35 TE and am trying to diagnose a problem with the freshwater system. There seems to be a restriction or a blockage somewhere between the freshwater pressure pump/filter (located under the galley floor) and the water tank but I can't figure out where it is.

I have checked the following:
-Unhooking the supply line (low pressure side) of the pressure pump and feeding it directly from a bucket works perfectly well (quickly builds pressure and holds).
-I only get a dribble of water (very slow flow) out of that line when it's disconnected.
-I put ~6 gallons of anti-freeze in the tank in preparation for winter and am still getting only a dribble (although it's pink now) so the tank isn't empty.

My questions are:
-Where is the main water tank? My best guess from following lines is the large metal tank on the starboard side behind the engine.
-Where is the outlet fitting from the main water tank? I can't find it at all and I'm afraid it's buried somewhere innaccessible.
-Is there a check-valve or anything between the tank and the pump/filter that might have gotten clogged?
-Is there any way to inspect inside the water tank to see if there's some kind of debris in there that is blocking the outlet port?

Any help or diagrams/drawings of the system would be hugely helpful,

Thanks,
Tristan

[whwells]

Tristan: Welcome. You will find the 35te to be a fine boat. The water tank is in the lazarett
outside as I recall. it has been awhile since I sold my 35te.
Had the same problems more than once. The alum. water tanks flake from the inside. My Nibbles has a small filter that would get stopped up and water would stop completely through the boat.
The filter is located just ahead of the engine floor forward. It has a metal screen. The filter is very small so just run down the water lines and you will find it. Just remove it and clean away the flakes and you should be fine. The same problem would also stop up the filters in the facets at times both at the galley and the head sink. They just need to be taken apart and cleaned as well.
After I realized the tanks were flaking some I stopped drinking the water and used bottle water for drinking and cooking. All is fine in an emergency and for showers, dishes, etc.
Don't be discouraged. These are wonderful boats. I have had two Albins and a Sabre 42 and frankly still think the 35te was the best for me around.
Nibbles was the 35te Sportfisher flybridge. You will love the boat. Happy to answer your questions. What is your power? I had twin Yanmar 315's
Howard

[whwells]

Tristan: Wondering if my description of the filter actually more of metal strainer was adequate. It is very small maybe 2" across and 4" in depth. Again if you get down into the engine compartment it is about floor level maybe as much as 6" lower than the floor and about 12" forward of the floor more to the Port side from the center. It was a small clear plastic screw on strainer.

There are three large alum. fuel tanks as I recall. I do recall the water tank is alum. but having had several boats since the 35te I am not certain about the water tank location. Most of the boats have had the water tanks 2 along the outside of the hull. I don't recall the water tank or tanks to be along the sides of the Albin and still think it was to rear of cabin.

Doug Sears has a 35te made he will jump in since in case I have the water tank location wrong due to the subsequent Sabre and then Albin Express Trawler ownership.

Another piece of advise. These alum. fuel tanks are subject to failure due to water from the inside out. I always put some water dryer or removal in to try and avoid the problem. Removing and replacing the tanks is expensive. I lost tanks in a former Grady White as well as a Whaler inboard
and the costs was a lot. Both of those tanks were manufactured by the same company for Whaler and Grady White out of Florida. Just keep ahead of the problem and you should be fine.

Enjoy that great boat.

Howard

[RobS]

Sounds like Howard has given you all you need to know, follow his lead. Here is Doug's prior post on this matter, both informative and entertaining.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6643

[tristan35]

Thank you everyone for all the information! I posted a long follow-up reply from my phone on saturday evening but it seems that it got eaten by the gods of the message board! So I will try to recap:

On this boat, there are three items mounted neatly under the galley floor access panel:
1- A small filter/strainer (about 3" diameter x 2" tall)
2- The pressure pump
3- A pressure accumulator tank

I checked the filter/strainer for debris (there is a little) but the restriction is clearly upstream of this point as removing the hose to the inlet of the filter only gives a dribble of water flowing.

Should there be another filter somewhere? I have followed the water supply line and can't find anything before is disappears behind a bulkhead.

The water tank corrosion/flaking is certainly concerning and it sounds like it'll have to be addressed at some point. Are there any access points to the freshwater tank other than cutting a hole in the deck? I'm a bit stuck trying to figure out how to access it... if I'm following hoses correctly, it's the large metal tank on the starboard side directly aft of the starboard engine. but I can only barely get to where the hose from the filling port connects (upper corner, forward edge, outboard, ~2" white hose) but can't see anywhere that the exit line goes to the pressure pump or where the level sender is located.

Does any of this ring a bell based on other 35TE's configurations or were different years put together with tanks in different spots?

Thanks

[Russell]

This is not a long term fix but try connecting a hose and blowing water or air back in the tank. If there is some corrosion sucked into the outlet it might come out and settle in the bottom of the tank. Then you can open it and clean it out when you are ready to tackle such a big job.

[tristan35]

I actually tried manually blowing back into the tank but couldn't get anything to move, which made me think there might be a check valve in line somewhere.

If that's not the case, I'm guessing I just couldn't create enough pressure.. 80psi compressed air will probably have a better shot at it.

Thanks!

[whwells]

Tristan You are on the right track. The fuel tanks on the 35te as i recall are to each side and will drain into the center tank . Your description of the water tank location sounds correct.

Why the corrosion and flakes. I was told the fresh water make up in Anacortes, Wa has elements that are not good for aluminum. We have learned that clear plastic tanks is the only way to go.
While I did not get too replacing the water tank it was a consideration. The Sabre had plastic tanks for water.

Cutting a hold in the floor was not that big of a deal. We went to West Marine and purchased
a screw out door with frame marked the area cut the holes and it worked fine. Put it to the edge so the little raised surface do not catch the foot. My guy then used a special saw to cut a 6" hole in the top of the tank . You could then see what is happening and a place to start. We purchased the screw tank on lid for the fuel tank from the same people who furnished the Webasto heat unit and related parts. Again what worked for the fuel will work for the water system.

We cut out and took the entire floor up pretty much in the Grady White when the aluminum tank failed. I have forgotten how we got the tank out for the Whaler that failed. I do recall both were huge. Seems like the labor was over 2000. plus 3500. for the new tank with shipment from Florida.

All that said it must be in the line or pick up somewhere that the materials "flakes" have gotten bad enough to fill and harden such that they won't blow out. You may have to tap and install new fitting and lines in the tank. We did that even for the fuel tank to install a diesel heater unit. While I did not personally do the drilling I watched it happen. The difference is we went in from the top and used a tube down to near the bottom of the tank to pick up fuel. If need be you can cut a hole in the top of the tank for current and future inspections and cleaning. Pump out the water and then you can tap the tank for the new line at worse. Likely after you do and inspection plate in the floor you will be able to see the fitting the includes the bad line.

We actually did that both for the 35te Albin and later for my Sabre both not having a diesel heat system that is so desirable in the NW. Sorry, I keep bringing up the fuel tanks but they are made of the same aluminum and we basically handled them the same way. Diesel not being so flammable
allowed us to drill in places you would not consider with a gas fuel.

Most of our time was spent on the fuel tanks but the it should work the same. Can't you crawl around until the fitting can be found? It has to be somewhere Albin was able to install it.
You might call Standish Marine in RI. Those folks know more about these boats than anyone else.
They were a dealer and still get lots of Albin's in for repair work.

Howard

[tristan35]

Thanks, Howard.. It definitely sounds like installing an inspection port will be at least the first step to keeping these tanks going for a little while longer.

I will call Standish Marine and ask them about the fitting location, so far I've been unable to figure out how to access it but you're right, it has to be somewhere!

[Halcyon]

Our 35TE has the water tank located aft of the engines. There is a plywood bulkhead for fuel filters, engine controls etc forward of the tank. I believe it is screwed to vertical tank restraints.

With a little work the plywood panel could be removed or shifted allowing access.