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Sea Cocks

Albin's "power cruisers"
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Hortense
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Home Port: Windsor England
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Sea Cocks

Post by Hortense »

Has anyone dismantled and serviced the sea cocks on an A25.
Do they come apart easily, are there any parts to replace/ inspect?
What type of lubricant do you use?
Mine all appear to be original 1976 ( hull No 2127) but some are very stiff to operate.
Regards
Steve
kerrye
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Re: Sea Cocks

Post by kerrye »

Mine are gate valves which appear original. The stem was removed from one when I got the boat. I just threaded it back in. You should be able to remove your stems if they are like mine. PO had planned on replacing the ones in my boat but I could see no problems with them so kept them
dkirsop
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Home Port: Pender Island, BC, Canada

Re: Sea Cocks

Post by dkirsop »

I replaced all of mine. Gate valves that are 46 years old are not to be relied on. Too many hidden areas where corrosion can go unnoticed. Most owners that I know have upgraded to 1/4 turn sea cocks. If you are replacing through hulls, I recommend you stay with bronze through hulls and sea cocks. Initially I used the Delrin (fibre reinforced plastic) through hulls and found the smaller ones, less that 1 1/4" dia. snapped easily. I went back to bronze.

Groco is a good brand as is Apollo https://www.groco.net/products/valves-s ... ine-valves
Hull No. 1013, 1971
dkirsop
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Re: Sea Cocks

Post by dkirsop »

By the way, should you decide to replace the through hull, or should one snap as you remove a valve, here is the easy way to remove them. Open the sea cock. From outside the boat drive a tapered wooden plug up into the through hull and cut it off flush to the outer flange. Centre a 1/4" drill on the plug and drill a hole up through it. Next choose a bi-metal hole saw with a diameter the same as, or slightly less than, the outer diameter of the threaded section of the through hull. From outside the boat using the 1/4" pilot hole as a guide drill through the flange with the hole saw - STOP just as you reach the outer hull surface. Go inside the boat, strike the side of the through hull with a hammer and it will come away. The flange will pry off easily once the through hull has snapped. The whole process takes about 10 minutes and is way faster than fooling around with stuck threads in cramped spaces.
Hull No. 1013, 1971
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Pitou
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Re: Sea Cocks

Post by Pitou »

For removal of a thru hull consider using a Buck Algonquin thru hull step wrench. It makes the job much easier.
Thru Hull Step Wrench.jpg
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kevinS
>><<>>;>

Former Boats:

- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23

- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
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RobS
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Re: Sea Cocks

Post by RobS »

Pitou wrote: Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:05 am For removal of a thru hull consider using a Buck Algonquin thru hull step wrench. It makes the job much easier.
Yup and one size fit's all..the big guy was 1-1/2"
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Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's

(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408

Luck is the residue of good design.
hetek
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Re: Sea Cocks

Post by hetek »

Replaced mine. Too old and crusty to repair. I'm talking about the seacocks here...

I had to cut mine out. I ground the outer "bell" off with a grinder and twisted the stem out.

I also eliminated a couple unwanted ones and 'glassed over the holes. The galley raw water intake for the foot pump? Gone. Same with the head. For some reason the A25 has the most through hulls of any boat I've ever owned!
Jon B.
Former owner of...
"Bunkie" - a 1984 A27FC
New owner of...
1977 A25 deLuxe - a work in progress
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