Deck and hatch core?

[Jeremyvmd]

So I am installing an access hatch in my rear deck of shady, directly over the fuel fittings and sender. That way I shouldn't have to remove the rear deck for serviceing of the fuel system (new tank so it should be fine). Now shady is a 98, so I expected the rear deck to be balsa or plywood cored, imagine my surprise when I found foam...which brings up the question if the rear deck is original or replaced/rebuilt? Does anyone know what the deck coring was in 98? When did they switch to foam (2000-01 when the hulls got changed?) or did they ever and this is a rebuild? Not that it's a big deal but it got me thinking!

[DougSea]

Our 1997 had balsa coring in the big hatch covers (either side of the engine). Never drilled the deck, so I can't answer that one. The hull and the helm area were balsa cored.

[Jeremyvmd]

Im pretty sure the side hatches are balsa cored that's part of the reason I was surprised to see foam core in the rear deck...I was just hoping someone else has drilled theirs and can shed some light on the matter...

[socalmike]

Ours is 2001 and has the foam core on the main deck hatch.

[Pedro]

1996 has balsa in all hinged hatches not sure what lies in tank hatch or main deck,

[Sisu22]

I've got some pretty bad delamination in the deck aft of the engine box. Maybe around 5 or 6 square feet, maybe more. I'm planning on taking the hatch off, flipping it, and cutting out all of the old core and replacing. Not sure if it is balsa or marine plywood but definitely not foam. Has anyone done this job?

[Maye Marie]

Sounds like what the problem I had with the fuel tank cover. I did what you are planning to do. Mine was foam cored. You will see squared raised section on the back side. Used a dremel and cutting wheel to cut out a square over the bad area. Removed old core and cleaned. Resign glued in new core and fiber glassed back side. Pretty easy to do without disturbing the finished side. used the marine foam core to put back together.

Also I always had to fuel slow and easy and still had fuel coming out of the fuel vent. When I had the cover off I saw my vent line was run so it would trap fuel and not run back to the tank. Raised the hose off the tank with a foam shim. Then zip tied in place through the back hatches to be sure hose has no droops in it. Have no problem now fueling full throttle. When your cover is off check out if fueling is hard.

[JJaworski]

I need to replace my fuel guage sender and would be very interested in the details of an access hatch. I also have a '98 engine box 28TE and installing an access hatch may be just the right solution to my problem. Could someone put up some pictures of your access hatch?

[Jeremyvmd]

I don't think I have any pictures at the moment, I'll look through my phone but worse case I'll be on shady tomorrow

[Jeremyvmd]

I don't have any installed pictures but I will try to take some this week

[JJaworski]

Thanks! Looking forward to seeing how this works.

[Sisu22]

OK so I just got my hatch off today and took a hole saw to the underside. Turns out I have 3/4" Balsa core and a ton of it is wet or just straight up rotten. So I've ordered two 2'x4' sections of end grain balsa for me to replace those. not sure how far the damage goes, but is a dremel the best tool to cut that?

[Sprig1]

One of the vibratory saws like a Fein I have a ridged work well. As you are pealing up the skin use it to cut any places that or still attached. It saves your skin to be used again. Get a good respirator, gloves and tyvec suite you will be a lot happier.

[Sisu22]

Great. 3M home depot respirator?

[Sprig1]

I got the 3m full face respirator. Absolutely love it. Wish I had it all my younger years. I probably wouldn't have some of the problems I have now. No problems with moisture and protects your face. Expensive yes but worth it. Sound like I sell them