Cruising the Waters of Maquinna in an Albin 25

[dkirsop]

The title refers to the Chief of the Muchalat First Nations at the time when the British and Spanish navies converged on the shores of Western Vancouver Island to settle the issue of sovereignty along the West Coast of North America in 1780. In reality, it was a collision of 5 cultures - British, Spanish, American, Russian and Indigenous Natives. I find it incredulous that such moments in history could take place in such isolated environs. Well - isolated for those of European descent; the Natives called it home. These are waters rich in marine life that supported native communities with populations recorded by Cook as in the thousands. Much has changed from that time - It all started in the community of Yuquot also known as Friendly Cove. I have just returned from a 7 day cruise in the area.

The Plan

The plan was to trailer the boat from my home port on Pender Island, BC to the boat ramp at Gold River, BC then cruise down the Muchalat Inlet, past Bligh Island (yes, THAT Bligh!) and into Friendly Cove. My friend Leif would accompany me on this adventure; we would meet when I drove off the ferry at Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island as he would be arriving as a foot passenger from Vancouver 20 minutes prior to my arrival from Pender. The following photo is an overview of our cruise plan.

Cruise Map.jpg

June 17 - Pender Island to Gold River

Tidal conditions were perfect for catching the early morning ferry. Mid-tide is usually ideal to achieve a level transition on the ramp from dock to deck thus avoiding the risk of striking the rudder skeg when driving onto the ferry. I left early to be first in line and make sure the boat and trailer would be on the ferry.

Waiting for Ferry 1.jpg

We arrived Gold River around 16:00hrs. Gold River is a forestry town that has seen better days and services are limited. We had stopped earlier at Courtenay to stock up on supplies as there is no grocery store in town. A local recommended the golf course as a good place to get dinner. We left the trailer in the parking lot of what was once a shopping centre and set about checking out both the boat ramp and the golf course. The ramp is quite a bit better than what I am used to and dinner at the golf course was excellent. We chose to spend the night in the boat for an early launch in the morning.

Gold River Lodgings.jpg

June 18 - Gold River to Yuquot

After purchasing coffee from a nearby gas station we drove down to the boat ramp and proceeded to launch.

Boat Launch.jpg

At 09:00hrs we proceeded to cruise down Muchalat Inlet. Weather was overcast with calm water and good visibility.

En Route to Friendly Cove.jpg

On reaching Bligh Island we turned south eventually passing Resolution Cove where Capt. Cook careened his boat to carry out much needed repair before departing for Hawaii where he was killed in an altercation with the natives. It is at this point one enters Nootka Sound which is open to the pacific swells. We altered course south-west in 1m swells with a light chop. As we approached Yuquot the swell increased in frequency and height so we altered course slightly to the north until we were in the shelter of Nootka Island then backtracked along the shore to Friendly Cove dropping anchor at 13:00hrs.

Friendly Cove.jpg

It is easy to see why the natives and Europeans chose this as first landfall from the Pacific. The cove is easily entered and well protected from the open water of the Pacific. There is a good beach on which to pull canoes and long boats ashore. In 1790 the Spanish had a garrison with 300 men at this site. Today there is only a light house, an historic church and one Muchalat family living here. The land belongs to the Muchalat Indian Band.

June 19 - Yuquot to Tahsis

We departed Yuquot at 09:00hrs and set course north up Kendrick Inlet, through Princess Channel and then continued north along Tahsis Inlet. Weather was raining with a light chop. Kept watch on a slowly approaching target from behind and were eventually passed by the tugboat Malaspina Straits.

Malaspina Straits.jpg

Tahsis Inlet.jpg

Near Tahsis Narrows we came across a raft of about 50 sea otters. It's great to see these cute fellows rebound from being hunted to near extinction. They are essential to maintaining a healthy eco-system as they control the populations of sea urchins which would deplete the kelp beds if left unchecked. The kelp provides essential habitat for numerous forms of sea life.

Checking Us Out.jpg

At 13:15hrs we pulled in to West Shore Marina (aka Marguaritaville North - gumboots and rain gear optional). This is a very nice marina and we enjoyed a cold beer while sitting outside under the rain canopy.

Marguaritaville North.jpg

My brother lives in Tahsis and we planned to spend the remainder of this day and next visiting.

June 20 - Short Cruise into Esperanza Inlet

West through Tahsis Narrows, past CeePeeCee the name of which evolved from a fish packing plant belonging to Canada Packers Company. Then the small encampment at Esperanza before an unsuccessful day of fishing. Nuff said.

CeePeeCee.jpg

June 21 - Tahsis to Zeballos to Queen Cove

Departed Tahsis at 09:25hrs enroute to Zeballos. The sky was overcast with the weather reported to improve later in the day. Arrived Zeballos 12:15hrs.

Zeballos Inlet.jpg

Zeballos started out as a gold mine then transitioned to logging. It is a small hamlet with well maintained houses and a population of less than 200. There is only limited services which consist of a fuel dock and a small store open from 2ish to 6ish. It has a good public dock and the drinking water is good too. There was a nearby active logging operation and I hope times continue to improve for this proud little community.

Zeballos Dock.jpg

Something we wanted to try if possible was to transit open waters and reach Kyuquot as our most norther destination. Each day we monitored the weather reports and each day open sea conditions were not favourable for this transit. A local on the dock at Zeballos suggested we anchor in Queen Cove, near the mouth of Esperanza Inlet, and attempt an early morning departure when sea conditions might be calmer. We departed Zeballos at 14:00hrs and anchored in Queen Cove at 17:15hrs.

Queen Cove.jpg

June 22 - Queen Cove to High Rocks to Galiano Bay

At 06:25 we departed Queen Cove and set course out from Esperanza Inlet into the Rolling Roadstead. As a precaution I called Prince Rupert Coast Guard Station for a radio check and was informed they read me loud and clear.

Out from Esperanza Inlet.jpg

Rolling Roadstead.jpg

Once exiting the Rolling Roadstead we encountered 2m swells with 2 foot waves. This was consistent with the early morning weather forecast but swells were forecast to increase to 3m by late afternoon with wind rising to 30 knots. We held to our course as the sea was tolerable and if we could hold to course would reach Kyuquot by noon. However, as we passed High Rocks the sea shallowed and the swell increased in height to 3m and the gap between crests narrowed. This placed the dinghy we were towing in danger of capsizing. Our options were to head for deeper water or turn back. Heading for deeper water to round Tatchu point would result in a late arrival and a real risk of finding ourselves in worsening sea conditions. The decision was made and we turned back.

This marked the furthest extent of our trip as we did not have the time to wait out the sea conditions at Queen Cove.

Once back in protected waters we travelled south down Tahsis Inlet in clear sunny skies Rugged Mountain was cleary visible behind us. Previously, low cloud had obstructed the view.

South Down Tahsis Inlet.jpg

Just off the northern tip of Bligh Island, entering Tlupana Inlet, I spotted what appeared to be a rock beneath the water. This made no sense as the depths in this location were around 250m and no rock was plotted on the chart. Slowing down and approaching cautiously, what I thought was a rock turned out to be a large skate, 8' wing tip to wing tip, with several lesser skates at various levels beneath creating the rock like appearance! Unfortunately no pictures were taken as I was too distracted.

We anchored in Galiano Bay at 15:30hrs. We were surprised to find a large number of floating cabins along the shore line of the bay. This is the first time I have ever had to take precautions to anchor in a location that would prevent the boat from swinging into a residence! There were also two large floating fishing lodges in the bay too. So much for quiet isolation.

Galiano Bay Cabins.jpg

June 23 - Galiano Bay to Gold River

We departed Galiano Bay at 08:25hrs to reach the boat ramp near high tide which was forecast for 13:19hrs. Passed many fish farms as we transited Muchalat Inlet reaching the ramp at 11:45hrs. Retrieval was straight forward and ferry connections went well. I pulled into my driveway at 19:30hrs.

Final Notes

This was the first run on the engine since I rebuilt it this winter. I have an AD21 two cylinder engine. The engine ran well and I was very pleased with the fuel consumption. Cruising RPM was held at 1600 and speed varied between 5 and 6 knots depending on direction of the current.
Total engine hours 34.3hrs
Total fuel consumption 38 litres

If you ever come to this area of Vancouver Island be advised there is no cell phone service west of Campbell River. Similarly there are very few services west of Campbell River until you reach Tahsis - even then, choice in groceries is severely limited. Fuel is available at Gold River, Critter Cove, Tahsis, Esperanza and Zeballos.

[WillieC]

I have been poring over the Google Earth following your trip for the last hour or so. Fantastic! On two cylinders no less! It looks like the ramp you used was not in Gold River proper but on the larger body of water a bit south of town, close to Air Nootka? I should try to find charts that are more accurate than the google.
Thanks for posting. This is very encouraging as we are about to head out on an extended cruise. Hope my rebuild performs as well as yours did.

[Nancy]

I enjoyed reading this. Thanks for posting.