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A 25 Cutlass Bearing Needed
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2011 5:55 pm
- Home Port: Nanoose Bay, British Columbia
A 25 Cutlass Bearing Needed
I need a cutlass bearing for my Albin 25. Anyone in British Columbia ordered a cutlass bearing lately? Or know where to get one? If so what specifically did you order, and where did you get it from? Thanks
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 2285
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:48 am
- Home Port: Hood Canal, WA
Re: A 25 Cutlass Bearing Needed
Albinmotors
http://mmd.nu/shop233/catalog/advanced_ ... d1&x=0&y=0
I have heard small issues about verifying order placement and payment, but once solved, excellent service. I have not ordered from them, yet, but I shall. New 30mm cutlass sometime this winter.
If your shaft is not 25 or 30 mm, it is not original. Check closely before ordering. Best to haul it and look it over, IMHO. (I see Albinmotor is also offering a cutlass bearing for a 1" shaft. How cosmopolitan!)
Here are a couple threads to look at.
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6382&star
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9044
http://mmd.nu/shop233/catalog/advanced_ ... d1&x=0&y=0
I have heard small issues about verifying order placement and payment, but once solved, excellent service. I have not ordered from them, yet, but I shall. New 30mm cutlass sometime this winter.
If your shaft is not 25 or 30 mm, it is not original. Check closely before ordering. Best to haul it and look it over, IMHO. (I see Albinmotor is also offering a cutlass bearing for a 1" shaft. How cosmopolitan!)
Here are a couple threads to look at.
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6382&star
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9044
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2011 5:55 pm
- Home Port: Nanoose Bay, British Columbia
Re: A 25 Cutlass Bearing Needed
Thanks Willie C for your comprehensive response. So it looks like the A25 cutlass bearing is a challenging part to obtain quickly / easily. Initially was hoping that someone in BC had a source or experience with a mechanic / boatyard who had done an install.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 2285
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:48 am
- Home Port: Hood Canal, WA
Re: A 25 Cutlass Bearing Needed
I have pondered modifying the existing holder but not to come to any great conclusions. The whole design idea they have is that it is sort of self centering. The rubber sleeve encases what looks like a giant ferrule like you see on a copper pipe. As you tighten it up, it centers itself in the dual tapered housing and cover and has a bit of flexibility. totally unlike a regular 'Merican cutlass bearing.
Part of the challenge of modifying anything is getting it all to fit inside the 40mm sterntube, AND not sticking too far out thereby pushing the prop farther south and bashing into the rudder! (Actually a bit over 40mm, and fairly thin wall at that.) The local high dollar prop dealer suggested I could replace the stern tube! For what? More than the price of the boat?! The tapered part that is cast into the fiberglass of the boat and also has the two threaded inserts for the cover OUGHT to be usable for adapting to a regular, off the shelf cutlass.
The outside of a standard cutlass bearing can be machined down to fit the stern tube. Now figure out a piece that bolts to the two inserts and will lock the cutlass and you have it! With a 30mm shaft and a 40mm ID of tube, that leaves 5mm each side, including the rubber cutlass. Too tight for me. Now a 25mm or 1" shaft? Could be doable.
Please figure it out for me! Hey, we're all in this together with these old furrener boats. (One guy told me that's the problem with all these cheap, foreign boats. You should buy American! No clue how great these Albins are.)
The catch is, sure all these mods COULD be done, but likely not for less than the $140 or so for the original deal. A properly aligned engine and straight shaft with a balanced prop (three separate new topics that will also apply to whatever bearing you install) will all contribute to a long and happy life for a new, original bearing. That and 36 hp at less than 2000 rpm.
I really have pondered this. Most people just drag their boats into a boat yard, bring a couple wheelbarrows of gold bullion and leave a phone number. Wish I could do the same.
Part of the challenge of modifying anything is getting it all to fit inside the 40mm sterntube, AND not sticking too far out thereby pushing the prop farther south and bashing into the rudder! (Actually a bit over 40mm, and fairly thin wall at that.) The local high dollar prop dealer suggested I could replace the stern tube! For what? More than the price of the boat?! The tapered part that is cast into the fiberglass of the boat and also has the two threaded inserts for the cover OUGHT to be usable for adapting to a regular, off the shelf cutlass.
The outside of a standard cutlass bearing can be machined down to fit the stern tube. Now figure out a piece that bolts to the two inserts and will lock the cutlass and you have it! With a 30mm shaft and a 40mm ID of tube, that leaves 5mm each side, including the rubber cutlass. Too tight for me. Now a 25mm or 1" shaft? Could be doable.
Please figure it out for me! Hey, we're all in this together with these old furrener boats. (One guy told me that's the problem with all these cheap, foreign boats. You should buy American! No clue how great these Albins are.)
The catch is, sure all these mods COULD be done, but likely not for less than the $140 or so for the original deal. A properly aligned engine and straight shaft with a balanced prop (three separate new topics that will also apply to whatever bearing you install) will all contribute to a long and happy life for a new, original bearing. That and 36 hp at less than 2000 rpm.
I really have pondered this. Most people just drag their boats into a boat yard, bring a couple wheelbarrows of gold bullion and leave a phone number. Wish I could do the same.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2016 11:24 am
- Home Port: Pleasant Harbor, WA USA
- Location: Hood Canal, WA
Re: A 25 Cutlass Bearing Needed
Probably too late to be of help but...
I purchased a cutlass bearing from Albin Motors in July. Price was very reasonable. 125$ including shipping I think.
I have come to appreciate the design of the Albin 25 cutlass as you can actually replace the cutlass bearing without removing the shaft or rudder if you have a prop puller.
I purchased a cutlass bearing from Albin Motors in July. Price was very reasonable. 125$ including shipping I think.
I have come to appreciate the design of the Albin 25 cutlass as you can actually replace the cutlass bearing without removing the shaft or rudder if you have a prop puller.
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- Swabby
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2016 2:24 am
- Home Port: Vancouver
Re: A 25 Cutlass Bearing Needed
I know this thread's a bit old, but I am just about to replace this part. Can anyone explain the process for replacing this part?Hobbit wrote: ↑Fri Sep 30, 2016 3:12 pm Probably too late to be of help but...
I purchased a cutlass bearing from Albin Motors in July. Price was very reasonable. 125$ including shipping I think.
I have come to appreciate the design of the Albin 25 cutlass as you can actually replace the cutlass bearing without removing the shaft or rudder if you have a prop puller.
Cheers,
Graham
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 2285
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:48 am
- Home Port: Hood Canal, WA
Re: A 25 Cutlass Bearing Needed
Are you the Graham McK... from Greater Vancouver with the new Sole diesel?
Easy to replace cutlass, once you get the prop off. And know the size of the prop shaft.
There are a number of threads here and some decent pics.
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9044
I agonized for way too long and finally bit the bullet and ordered from Albinmotors in Sweden. The shock was that the box was too light! The new bearings do not use bronze, it is some kind of composite material that doesn't weigh anything, but it bolts right up and works great and should last another forty plus years.
Easy to replace cutlass, once you get the prop off. And know the size of the prop shaft.
There are a number of threads here and some decent pics.
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9044
I agonized for way too long and finally bit the bullet and ordered from Albinmotors in Sweden. The shock was that the box was too light! The new bearings do not use bronze, it is some kind of composite material that doesn't weigh anything, but it bolts right up and works great and should last another forty plus years.