Well here's something different I drill the holes through the pulpit for thecwindlass and it goes easy,,too easy, my pulpit is hollow, 1/4" of deck then air then the bottom is glass-3/4" core then glass,
I thought they were all solid?
Not sure how to best stiffen it,?
1.Top plate (aluminum)on deck
2.Fill the void with something. Then drill out holes again
3.somehow fit a 3/4" stiffener to underside and 5200 it to the deck,
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Windlass install
Moderator: Jeremyvmd
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- First Mate
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- Home Port: Groton Ct
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Re: Windlass install
Pedro, lots of info out there. Start with this one. (Avoid 5200, google MaineSail and read everything he has written.)
http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2013/Apr ... rectly.asp
http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2013/Apr ... rectly.asp
- Pitou
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- Location: Essex, MA
Re: Windlass install
Pedro -
Your discovery is typical of the 28TE pulpit. There is plenty of structural strength though. The Boat US link is exactly what will need to be done to protect the core from getting wet and you do not want that.
You'll need to buy threaded rod and cut to length using large fender washers, a lock washer and nut to secure the underside. Consider a lock washer and cap nut on the topside.
"NO 5200" as this will need to be removed at some point.
Your discovery is typical of the 28TE pulpit. There is plenty of structural strength though. The Boat US link is exactly what will need to be done to protect the core from getting wet and you do not want that.
You'll need to buy threaded rod and cut to length using large fender washers, a lock washer and nut to secure the underside. Consider a lock washer and cap nut on the topside.
"NO 5200" as this will need to be removed at some point.
kevinS
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
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- First Mate
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- Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:07 pm
- Home Port: Groton Ct
Re: Windlass install
Thanks,I fabricated a backing block from mahogany 5/4 thick predrilled it then rioped it to fit through the 3" hole, used some magic filler epoxy from Lbi fiberglass in Groton, I appreciate all the advice,I felt like I was the only one with such a thin skin on the top of the pulpit,,
At least I didn't have to dry out a wet core,
Building up is easier then that,,,
At least I didn't have to dry out a wet core,
Building up is easier then that,,,
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- First Mate
- Posts: 322
- Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:07 pm
- Home Port: Groton Ct
Re: Windlass install
Done,with wired remote,Defenders fathers day sale with rode $823.00 I think it was,,plus remote,
I did have my mechanic connect the wires
And install the contactor, 3 hrs labor,I'd say I saved at least a $1,000.labor,, Doing everything else,,especially doing the pulpit glass reinforcement,
I did have my mechanic connect the wires
And install the contactor, 3 hrs labor,I'd say I saved at least a $1,000.labor,, Doing everything else,,especially doing the pulpit glass reinforcement,