Newbie with 25 motorsailer, Mobile, AL

[kerrye]

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f11 ... 73320.html

[kerrye]

Depending on how much time you have and how much effort you want to expend you could suck out the crap from the bottom of the tank while the diesel sits on top of it. Haven't tried this but it seems theoretically possible and I know it's done on tanks with a sump. Set up a suction system with a shop vac--get a plastic bucket with a lid and put a hole in it for the shop vac hose. Tape the hose tight into the hole. Make another hole for a piece of fuel line. Make sure they only extend in the bucket a few inches so that whatever fluids are sucked up with the fuel line drop into the bucket and don't go into the shop vac. Cut some notches out of the end of the fuel line so it can still suck when pushed against the bottom of the tank. Pull out the fuel sender on the tank and stick the fuel line right to the bottom and turn on the shop vac and suck some stuff out. See what you are getting. I'm assuming you'll get crud for a while and eventually clear diesel. Our tanks really should be set up with a permanent system like this so once in a while crud can get sucked out.

[DesertAlbin736]

Do you recall the cost of the Aquadrive CV joint, that seems like a better solution than the universal joint?

The re-powering job on our boat was done in 1990 about two owners back from the folks we got the boat from. But all those previous owners kept receipts that were passed along to us and the cost of the AquaDrive back then was about $350. I'm sure it's probably double or triple that now.

[kerrye]

$1500? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221676344566?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

[Jeremyvmd]

http://www.aquadriveusa.com/price/price_list.htm
Be glad you don't have a big motor!

[BrookeMarie]

2manyboats, whwells, kerrye, DesertAlbin736, and Jeremyvmd. Thank you all for the comments and suggestions. Great links too! Now I have a better idea of what I am facing. Even if I need to put a couple grand into the boat I think it will be remain an economical boat to own and operate. I have been away from the computer a few days. (Boat too). Thanks again to all of you for the help.
Jim

[BrookeMarie]

Over a year now that I have owned my little Albin 25. I solved the fuel issue by removing the tank and totally vacuuming everything out. The driveline has held up, as is, I just haven't got around to replacing the ujoint. I have learned not to exceed 1700 rpm for the most part. Been on a few short cruises. Someone mention the mental health benefits of a boat. SO TRUE! I can go spend a night or two, take a little cruise and I am recharged. I have been dealing with family issues then changed phones with my password info and only recently could log on. I have acquired a nice trailer for her. Although am yet to put her on it. I plan to go up the Tombigbee and run down as my first "big" trip. Any advice on setting up the trailer would e great. I may start a new thread. Hope everyone is doing well. Jim

[jcollins]

Welcome back Jim. You'll have to keep us updated on your travels in the last year. Since this "newbie" post is a year old, I'm moving it to the A25 Forum.

[BrookeMarie]

jcollins, thank you! I have not travelled very far. Just puttered around mobile bay. Did a little fishing, enjoyed the boat. Thanks for all the help here.

[sail149]

Hi
Congratulation on getting your boat....nothing like it!
Re the freshwater cooling... If you boat does not have a heat exchanger and you are In salt or brackish water you should probably think about doing somthing soon. The quickest thing if moored dockside would be to add a simple fresh water flush and use it every time you leave the boat. You can then think about adding a keel cooler ( simplest option) or add a heat exchanger with an electric saltwater cooling pump as you engine won't have a seperate cooling water pump .
But hopefully you have a heated exchanger....
Cheers warren

[BrookeMarie]

Warren,
Thanks those are some good ideas. I have the Yanmar 2GM20F.
Jim

[DesertAlbin736]

FYI, the "F" in 2GM20F denotes fresh water cooled version. Our boat has a 3GM30F, the next size up from 2GM & is 3 cylinder, 24 HP. The 2GM20F is 16 HP if I'm not mistaken. In the photo below of our engine, the heat exchanger is the cast iron rectangular boxy shaped gismo with a automotive style radiator cap on top, to the right (starboard) side of the engine next to the valve cover.

Yanamar_3G.jpg

The 2GM20F looks like this, very similar to the 3GM only a bit smaller. Great little engines, except parts tend to be a bit high priced. For example a couple years ago we had to replace the raw water pump, which cost over $500 for the part, and you can't shop around online for deals (unless a private party happened to be selling a used one on Craiglist or Ebay) because authorized Yanmar dealers are only allowed by the factory to sell within their assigned territory.

The 2 cyl/16HP Yanmar 2GM20F. Equivalent new engines of the latest model designation (GM series was discontinued in early 1990s and replaced by more advanced model series) would run you better than $10,000, not counting labor for installation at a boat yard.

2GM20F.JPG

[DesertAlbin736]

"Any advice on setting up the trailer would be great."

I would say go for either an aluminum trailer or a galvanized one if possible and not painted steel, since you'll be dealing with salt water. Tandem axle goes without saying. Disc brakes, preferably with s/s rotors, better than drum brakes. Surge brakes are OK, but electric over hydraulic better, depending on your budget. Our trailer, which came with the boat is aluminum with keel rollers & bunk boards & looks like this:

DSCN3667.JPG

DSCN3666.JPG

Expect all up road weight including trailer to be between 6,500 to 7,000 lbs, meaning you can tow with a half ton pickup or SUV if you don't have a lot of hills to deal with, but a 3/4 ton pickup will give you an extra margin of safety, especially if you have deal with any long 5% to 6% mountain grades.

One problem I've not yet been able to adequately resolve is getting the boat centered on the keel support rollers as we haul out. Here's a closeup few of how the keel rests on rollers.

DSCN3632.JPG

You may also want consider opting for a trailer where the entire boat is supported by rollers like we had with our previous Catalina 25 sailboat, although either type is fine, but if you do go with this type beware of releasing the bow winch while on the ramp before the boat is mostly in the water so it doesn't slide off prematurely. Nice paint job on this one, huh? In 2008 I sand blasted every square inch of this trailer down to bare metal myself and repainted it with Rustoleum red primer & white paint.

IMG_5602.JPG

This was the "before" picture of that trailer with the wheels & rollers removed & ready to start sand blasting. A nasty job I don't care to repeat any time soon.

IMG_5511.JPG

[BrookeMarie]

DesertAlbin736,
Thank you so much for all the info. And the pictures. I have not uet figired out how to post pictures.

The 3gm30F must have plenty of power. I have been very satisfied with the power from the 2gm20F. After decades of big outboards I was surprised how much power its seems to have. Also, I really like how little fuel it uses.

Concerning the trailer, I have already aquired a used dual axle aluminum trailer. It does not have brakes, yet. It should suffice for most travels behind my one ton truck. I may ad brakes later. The boat has not been on the trailer yet. It had a 28' foot boat on it prior so needs some minor modifications. Your photo's helped me decide what I need to do. My biggest concern is having the deeper keel toward the stern of boat hit metal.
I know I need move the trailer winch support toward back of trailer a couple feet. I like your V roller device under the bow. I may fabricate something like that.

You have a really nice looking boat, I like the hardtop with hatches over the helm.

Thank you,
Jim

If anyone can give me a link to how to post pics here I would appreciate it.

[Orenda]

Welcome. I have a 27' Albin 82 motorsailor 1967 that I did a complete refit: Beta Marine 38 HP diesel, prop, shaft, coupling, new thru hulls, wiring 110 & 12 V. LED lights in and out with AGM batteries, stripped bottom and put 2 barrier coats and VC17 ablative bottom paint. All new electronics and it is a joy to sail in Lake Ontario.