Engine alignment

[socalmike]

Did an engine alignment yesterday. Was off a bit. Realigned but still have shaft wobble above 2600 rpm. Next is to check the shaft for true and replace cutlass. Anyone have a similar issue. Debating on diy or have the yard do the work. Either way I need to be hauled at almost 450 plus 85 a day. B O A T

Mike

[Jeremyvmd]

If it's been aligned but still wobbles check the alignment as you turn the shaft by hand...if it binds you have a problem. Otherwise time to start digging deeper. I had the same issue after my strike incident. Shaft was badly bent in the process of having one made

[Nepidae]

Check your engine mounts as well.

What is the $85/day for?

[Jeremyvmd]

Check your engine mounts as well.

What is the $85/day for?

Dry storage I suspect, they have much more in the way of yard fees on that coast!

[socalmike]

Yup. The yard is doing the work do no daily rate. All going back together tomorrow.

[gfuller]

Definitely curious to hear the outcome, Mike.

What caused this initially?

[DCatSea]

Just had all new mounts installed in yard, pix to follow. "Mazboot" is still out of water so I won't be completing alignment until she is back in and run-able, (early May now, we have some travelling to do in April) , AND I just broke a finger, so I wont be doing anything exciting in the engine room for a couple of weeks (darnit).

My question on alignment - is there a recommended procedure? I am sure the yard will do a good job, but as a newcomer to aligning anything I would appreciate any pointers before I do something I'll regret later.

Thanks

[WillieC]

Alignment is a well documented subject, no shortage of info out there. You sound like you have a decent relationship with your yard so I might ask them about their procedure after you make yourself dangerous with a little knowledge.

New mounts is the right place to start so you are on the plus side already. Any odd noises before? Any noticeable shaft wobble at the stuffing box? Cutlass bearing(s) in good shape? Prop OK? Some will advocate a new coupler or at least a refacing so it is perpendicular to the shaft, which would require pulling the shaft, an excellent time to check it for straightness, although that can be determined in the boat.

With new mounts, it should be a piece of cake. Our A25 with the original VolvoPenta uses shims for adjustment which should be interesting.

Good luck and keep us posted!

[DCatSea]

Thanks WillieC for great pointers, which I will be following after becoming dangerously knowledgeable. Reason for new mounts was not sound-based but rather physical; one had pretty much fallen apart through rusting out. Found cause of rust, and the issue is resolved (spray from a bilge pump hose - close call). Other than that, no vibration or shaft wobble; in fact a pretty smooth ride. Bad mount caused some extra noise, which I hope will be eased now (will find out soon enough I guess). Will also be upgrading soundproofing, so things should be relatively quiet (considering its a 4D61).

Once I get things more together in the ER I'll post pix - I'm currently without a heat exchanger, raw water filter, a bunch of hoses, and need a thorough clean.

Best

Doug

[WillieC]

Yeah spraying hoses, not good. My starboard forward corner engine mount, near the starter of course, was similarly deteriorated. Only thing that makes sense is a slight drip of seawater from the HX or the thermostat housing before it was converted, but nasty corrosion down there, and very hard to notice with the old rusty hunk of VolvoPenta engine in the A25 engine box. Sounds like you will be in fine shape when done. Don't you hate physical setbacks? We don't have time for this! Hope your finger heals properly. Give it the time it needs.

[DCatSea]

Thanks - Luckily its my left hand, ring finger, so I will be able to do most of what needs to be done in a day or so, just by rescheduling the work. Now have time to research bendy hoses and consider how best to approach the helm rewire, having removed all erroneous wires left by POs and drawn up something of a schematic.

[socalmike]

Here is where we are with this. Pulled it all apart, prop tuned, shaft went out and came back as straight. New coupler as old one slid off once loosed, new tides seal and seal holder for addition seal. Sea trialed and boat ran smooth although the tides dripless shill shakes at higher rpm. No drip. No wobble in the shaft as you can see the spare seal carrier spin straight. The tides dripless shakes pretty good at 3400 rpm. Not sure if it's even fixable. Anyone else ever look at their tides marine dripless under higher rpm?

[RobS]

It's not right.
Did the machine shop fit/face the new coupler to the shaft?
Was the gear flange checked for runout?
Are both faces CLEAN?
Was the cutlass bearing alignment verified, not just assumed (I've shimmed that bearing housing for better alignment)...

[socalmike]

Coupler was said to be fit/faced. It was hard to get on the shaft once the shaft was back in place. The cutlass housing and bearing were determined to be good and left in place. There was zero to very little play in the shaft. You can turn the coupler with one hand. Inside the tides dripless there is a nylon type bearing, I wonder if that is worn causing the dripless to shake.

[socalmike]

I also get some gear rattle at forward idle. Once I hit 950 rpm it's gone. Could a worn torsion plate be a culprit?