A27- Head modification

[sail149]

JT , defiantly a great job. The large head is defiantly a good idea.
I may have mentioned it before and it's maybe too late...., and you were pointing out you rough fiberglass edges......
When using cloth Fiberglass strips we cut it at a 45 deg bias ,You will need large 12" heavy duty shears to cut the strips. If you handle the strips carfully , i.e. Don't pull longways and stretch it , you will find it really lays into sharp corners well, like when you are tabbing in. great on outside corners too. It's Way better and easier than 4" wide strip cloth tape.
The reason for this is the 'strings of the fiberglass go over the corner at an angle rather than straight over and springing up, a bit like hitting a speed bump at an angle instead of straight on, so much gentler!
Also the bias cut edges lay down much better than cross cut strips so the clean up and smoothing down is easier. The 4" tapes edges look initially cleaner but tends to stick up high and take extra grinding to smooth down.
Another thing I'm sure you are doing too is when using multiple layers make sure the last layer is the widest to cover the edges of the layers under, this works espically well with the softer bias cut edges.
Sorry if you know all this but it may be of use to others.
Oh, if you have to used 4"tape or strips cut square the bigger the filler of putty you add into the corner before the glass the better it will lay down without voids. On large boats where we were using thick woven roving to tab in an "egg crate" grid into the bottom of the boat we used 1"X 1" X 45 deg mahogany strips in the corners before the thick woven roving or ' fab mat' to help it lay down. Cutting on a 45 deg bias was not practical with the thick material.
Warren

[JT48348]

Lessons learned the hardway! Lol

[JT48348]

On to spraying the interior. I've redone several boats and always found that if you want a fresh interior go for spraying. I used a graco x7 airless sprayer. This has been a great sprayer having done about a dozen major latex & stain spray jobs around the house. I waited till all my house painting was done since once you run oil based paint through the unit you really shouldn't go back to water cleanup.

Sprayed the interior of the Albin 27 with Zinser Cover Coat primer. I chose this primer after some research because I needed a primer that would flow through the sprayer and not be too thick out of the can. I've used Kiltz before and while I like the product it's thick and gummed up my last sprayer totally ruining it. I cut the primer with mineral spirits just like the can said.

The results were really pleasing. The boat went from a dirty looking mess to nice white. This is just the primer coat. But you can imagine the gloss topside paint in the coming weekends.

Spraying took about 1 hour or less. But the set and take down is almost twice as long. There is no better way to get into the corners.

[JT48348]

Primer: Zinser Cover Primer
Paint: Rustoleum marine topside gloss white
graco x7 sprayer
Tip: 417

[JT48348]

Took about 5 gallons of primer to do the entire interior. But I was a little heavy when I started and I wanted a decent white covering. The sprayer puts paint into places you can barely reach with a brush and it does it evenly.

[hetek]

A white coat of paint makes everything look nice. Even if it is only primer.

What kind of prep work did you have to do before spraying the Zinser? Sand and solvent wash?

[JT48348]

Exactly. Sand all surfaces, wash, and wipe down

[JT48348]

Verdict on the Rustoleum Marine top sides on the interior. An excellent hard slick finish; this paint lays down very well and levels nicely. Except on verticle surfaces. Lol

Appears that due to the confined spaces the issue with the Graco x7 is distance/speed/pressure and maybe the tip. It puts out too much paint causing some drips and "curtaining"--but only on some verticle surfaces. I suspect my pressure was a little high and the gun was big for such a small boat. I have a semi-commercial setup really geared toward massive house projects. So it is what it is. With prior experimentation ( which I failed to do) I bet this could be easy adjusted to one shot perfection.

The solution for me now: a quick sand with 320-400 grit and then roll and tip a second coat on verticles. Really no trouble. This is ok since there a few touch up spots where the gun couldn't quite go anyway.

I would recommend this procedure again as the finish in all the nooks and crannies and flat surfaces is beautiful. I like it so much I will be spraying deck before season ends. It's like a new boat.

[JT48348]

Photos of painted head etc. Very pleased with how the coosa board took paint as well as the floor. Once nonskid put in it will finish out nicely.

[rnummi]

Beautiful.... where do you plan on re-teaking the vertical surfaces?

[JT48348]

In the bathroom, the shower area walls will be covered with FRG shower panels. On the bulkheads by the toilet I will be using the white PVC wainscoting product floor to ceiling. Same thing for the bulkheads inside the cabin. The edges of all the bulkheads to ceiling/floor joints will be by teak trim.

The whole idea is to use teak only for trim in order to lighten the cabin and increase the illusion of more space.