My 1977 Albin 25 Deluxe rebuild thread

[hetek]

I agree... Good to go!

Have to take care of a few things first, like the raw water pump cover leak. Might as well replace the impeller while I'm in there. I'm going to send the Hurth gear to a local shop to replace the output shaft seal.

The raw water overtemp alarm is definitely a false alarm. It is to alert of the absence of water in the wet exhaust elbow. It clearly had water flowing.

This video is actually my second try. I expected it to have to crank and crank and then troubleshoot why it wasn't firing... and to my pleasant surprise, it fired right up! I only ran it for about 10 seconds before I made the video on the second shot.

This bugger is quiet compared to the Lehman 4D61 in "Bunkie". Working on the Lehman, I would have to wear ear muffs. I put them on for this Vetus test, but promptly took them off. The "Elastomuff" has a hole in the middle (from running dry with the old motor) so I won't reuse it. I have to see if I need a water-lift muffler or a check valve, but that would be it.

I'm happy!

[WillieC]

You are a bit ahead of me as to engine replacement. I am swapping my MD3B with an MD17C, why? "Because it came with the boat." Good enough reason for me. I also did a test run of the spare engine. Took me a few days to sort out injector pump issues, rebuild water pump, misc prep for starting an engine on the floor.
Both of my engines can easily be spun by hand at the flywheel, which, these being my first exposure to diesels, seemed anemic to me. I used to drive VWs and rebuilt many of them, and after a ring and valve job, one could not easily turn those pigs over by hand. So I was suspicious of these Volvos. Turns out I was right, low compression, so now I am assembling parts to resurrect the 17C. Don't want to misrepresent and use words like "Restore" or "Rebuild". Both of these engines are over 40 years old and I am in my 60s. I don't need a new engine, just want a dependable one.

Anyway, good for you having a readily usable spare engine. Please keep us all posted on your travails, especially regarding the details of your installation. Engine mounting, shaft coupler, shaft replacement, cutlass bearings for your new shaft, new prop since the rpm and power curve (and rotation?) have changed, control cables, engine box mods (might not be needed), and whatever else got missed in the budgeting process.

While you are at it, please include some pics and details of physically removing and replacing your engines. I am pondering these issue right now and plan on doing it myself. My thinking right now is to remove the BC hardtop and renting a forklift a couple times for the big lifts. But I am not averse to a clever homebrew solution. One of our European friends (denchen) here on the forum describes a method using car jacks from the boot of his car. viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7805&p=47071#p47071

Great thread! Thanks.

[hetek]

Hi WillieC! Welcome to my "exercise in frustration" thread. Only kidding. I like doing this kind of stuff. Ask my wife!

To clarify the "Why" I am replacing the engine... "Because it came with the boat" is 100% accurate. However, it is also the only engine that came with the boat!

See?

image.jpg

The previous owner had removed the 50 hp Westerbeke diesel that was in the boat when he bought it. Here's how he removed that lump...

image.jpg

Looks like he used a chain hoist on the gantry to lift the engine up, and the forklift to do the rest. It's nice to have the right tools for the job!

The Westerbeke was a beast of a boat anchor and some mods were made to the starboard side of the engine box, but with the small Vetus, I plan to restore the cover to original.

Good news: I found the Raw Water Temp Alarm Sensor online for only $21.61, but it's in Holland, the home of Vetus. At least it's available.

[kerrye]

Curious as to what happened to the previous Westerbeke in your boat as mine has a low hour Westerbeke 42 in it and and I don't plan on having to replace it.

[hetek]

Not sure of the Westerbeke's whereabouts or condition, but I think it was toast.

When I started disassembly of the exhaust system, I found evidence of a lack of raw water. The hose was burned to a char and collapsed internally and there was a hole burned through the "Elastomuff" muffler. All indicative of a wet exhaust that wasn't very wet.

I don't think the Westerbeke was far behind.

[WillieC]

Sounds like you and Kerry should start a museum of blown Elastomufflers!

[hetek]

I wish mine wasn't bad. It's as classic as the Albin 25 itself! However, I'm sure technology has improved on marine exhaust design and components since 1977.

I mean, really, the "Elastomuffler"... A melon-sized 40 year old rubber balloon that passes hot exhaust gases and cooling water that is mounted out of sight and below water level... What could possibly go wrong?!

[Jeremyvmd]

They still make them;) can allways get a new one...lol

[hetek]

You're kidding! I might have to check that out.

Still have to do my water line to exhaust ellbow calculations. To water-lift or not - that is the question.

If the answer is "not", then I'll look at the Elastomuffler option. Classic!

[Jeremyvmd]

yup they are still sold in England with the stainless jubilee clips (for some reason I love that the brits call hose clamps jubilee clips)...seem pretty cheap too, lol

[kerrye]

I'll be interested in your calculations. When I was trying to figure out what to do with mine and before I decided just to use a check valve, I looked at the (Vetus?) long low multiple chamber water lifts thinking one might fit under an aft berth. I eventually decided against it, partly because of the volume of water which the muffler held.

[WillieC]

In case you missed Kerrye's adventures with the elastomuffler:

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9277&p=58931&hilit=sinking#p58931

I am still pondering the whole exhaust system. There is a ton of info on this forum from some very knowledgeable folks about how to do wet exhaust correctly. If only one could sacrifice space to make a dry stack, I might consider going that way. As you know, the A25 isn't exactly laid out for doing it "the right way". But the balance is, a lot of these boats have been working just fine for 40 plus years, so why fix what ain't busted? Right, Kerry? I am more in favor of remedying a known flaw, especially having been warned. Kerry's fix seems to have satisfied him, using a backflow preventer flap. I am on the fence of doing nothing vs. sacrificing quarter berth area for a true downward sloping exhaust. My current exhaust has the VernaliftCentek, horizontal waterlift type canister, similar to picture from DesertAlbin in this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9281

If this is all old news to you, my apologies. Let us know what you land on. Of course your engine is different from my VP so that may affect your path.

Carry on!

[DesertAlbin736]

Very cool! The Vetus engine being based on Mitsubishi automotive diesels similar to the way Beta Marine diesels are based on Kubota tractor engines should make non-marine engine spare parts more affordable than Volvo or Yanmar. Interesting about the later model changes to the engine box design. On our 1971 boat the whole thing lifts up, but first you have to remove the driver's bench seat and the first floor board section directly behind the engine and swing open the hinged panel in the cabin bulkhead to unlatch and lift the engine box from inside the main cabin.

As far as water lift mufflers, here's what we have on our Yanmar 3GM30F powered A25, a horizontal fiberglass Vernalift muffler. This setup has never give us any trouble in three seasons & over 300 engine hours since we bought the boat. The early model A25's like our 1971 hull have the exhaust outlet on the port side rather than starboard side like the newer boats.

As we all know, working on/repairing/restoring Albin 25 boats is a labor of love that will be richly rewarded when cruising for a fraction of the cost of any other trawler type boat like a Nordic or Ranger tug or C-Dory of similar size and build quality.

DSCN3408 (1280x960).jpg

[hetek]

The calculations I was referring to are basically determining whether a water-lift muffler is necessary based on the height of the exhaust elbow above the waterline. Engine manufacturers are usually very specific about this.

Speaking of Vetus exhaust systems and water-lift mufflers...

https://www.defender.com/pdf/vetusmufflerinfo.pdf

I see a couple systems that might work with the A25, but I don't want a system that's too complex either. Remember: K.I.S.S.

I'm also really not that concerned about the muffler's silencing properties. Even water-cooled exhaust through a long exhaust hose might be quiet enough. What I am most concerned about are the "water flowing back up into my combustion chamber" prevention properties.

First things first... Where's my ruler?

[hetek]

Progress update:

I drained and removed the fuel tank over the weekend. 15 gallons of dark, dark diesel went to the waste oil recycling center at the town dump.

That's 180 nautical mile's worth according to Desert Albin's numbers. Oh well. I wouldn't want to run it even through a filter. Cheap insurance just to dump it. Excuse me... "Recycle" it.

Unfortunately, some bad news: While I was moving the tank I heard a "clunk, clunk..." I strongly suspect the mid-tank baffle has broken loose. I hope the sending unit wasn't damaged in the process. I'll remove it and check for damage. A sending unit gasket is a cheap investment, just to be sure.

So now I have a virgin hull in the engine area. I have what Powerboat Guide referred to as an Albin 25 "moulding" - basically, an A25, sans engine, gear, ...etc. Albin apparently sold the A25 new that way, once upon a time.

Next up: Clean, scrub, wipe down, make it look presentable... Then take a hard look and see where I stand.

I'm feeling optimistic. Hearing the engine run really helped.