36 Albin. Shaft Tube help.

[Great White]

Hello,

I am looking for advice/suggestions for a leaking shaft tube. It is in a 1986 36 Classic Albin and the leak was very minor years ago bUT now needs to be addressed. Underway the flow is enough to run the pump every 30 minutes. I have seen photos of the rear cutlass removed so I don'the think a sleeve is an option but was wondering if anyone had heard of sealing the inside of the tube. Also, does anyone have a photo of the front cutlass housing removed inside of the boat.

Thank you very much in advance of any and all ideas.
Ken White

[mike66]

Sorry to hear of your trouble. I have no solution, but am interested as our boats are the same age. Where exactly is the water entering your boat?

[Panhdjoe]

Do you have a bronze tube? With age some water was making it into ours along the outer surface of the tube past the concrete that the tube is set in. In our case a ring of epoxy around the tube where it comes into the boat took care of it. the rest of the leaking in that area was due to a cracked shaft log boot and groves and pitting in the prop shaft. a new shaft, shaft log boot and a repack took care of it. I think a few people on this forum have had the tube replaced. I have heard different accounts of how its done. Mine is bronze but they may not all be the same material.

[Great White]

Sorry to hear of your trouble. I have no solution, but am interested as our boats are the same age. Where exactly is the water entering your boat?

Hello,
The water appears to be coming from the drain holes in the Crossway bulkhead that the inside cutlass is mounted to. When then engine is running the water leaks in and it is hot enough to to know that it is coming from the water that is from the raw water cooling the engine. A few years ago it was very slight but now it is more than I want to see.

Ken

[Great White]

Do you have a bronze tube? With age some water was making it into ours along the outer surface of the tube past the concrete that the tube is set in. In our case a ring of epoxy around the tube where it comes into the boat took care of it. the rest of the leaking in that area was due to a cracked shaft log boot and groves and pitting in the prop shaft. a new shaft, shaft log boot and a repack took care of it. I think a few people on this forum have had the tube replaced. I have heard different accounts of how its done. Mine is bronze but they may not all be the same material.

Hello,
I am not sure what the shaft is made of but all info I have indicates stainless.

Ken

[jleonard]

If you go down a few threads and read "Cutlass Bearing Replacement" that might help.

[Great White]

If you go down a few threads and read "Cutlass Bearing Replacement" that might help.

HI,

Thanks you, the pix were very helpful. I am pretty sure my leak is from the stern tube as the water comes from the limber holes in the cross beam the forward shaft log is bolted to with 4 bolts. The water is very warm and only shows up when the engine is runNing. Spoke to a company today who repairs pipe from the inside using very thin (3mils) material which is put in place then sprayed with epoxy. Then put a air bladder in, inflate it to press it against the pipe wall until cured then remove the bladder. He has done a lot of piping on boats but not a prop shaft tube. The shaft is 1.5" and the tube is 2" which he thought would be enough clearance.

Has anyone heard of this technique???

Thanks,
Ken

[jleonard]

I haven't heard of that but it sounds interesting. Keep us informed if you go that way.

I once had a chimney lined by a similar technique. They inserted a bladder the length of the chimney and pumped a lightweight masonry mixture in between the original chimney and the bladder. When cured (next day) they deflated and removed the ladder. It worked great and stood up for the remaining 26 years we lived in that house.

[Great White]

I haven't heard of that but it sounds interesting. Keep us informed if you go that way.

I once had a chimney lined by a similar technique. They inserted a bladder the length of the chimney and pumped a lightweight masonry mixture in between the original chimney and the bladder. When cured (next day) they deflated and removed the ladder. It worked great and stood up for the remaining 26 years we lived in that house.

J,

That is sound good to hear. The man from the business said they have had great results so I will check it out. I am going to deal with it as it is for a few more months in the Keys as it is no problem withough the engine running and then head to a yard in Palm Beach County for the repairs. It is time for cutlass bearing replacement and new packing anyway. I will photo and report back on results.
Until then if anyone has any thoughts I am all ears.

Thanks,
Ken

[RobS]

.....Until then if anyone has any thoughts I am all ears.
Thanks,
Ken

Install a high water bilge alarm and locate the float wherever water collects when you are on the move.

[Great White]

.....Until then if anyone has any thoughts I am all ears.
Thanks,
Ken

Install a high water bilge alarm and locate the float wherever water collects when you are on the move.

That's the plan for an small trip and the one up to WPB.

Thx