Batteries

[BobHaze]

Well, I had to bite the bullet yesterday and buy new starting and house batteries. I bought the boat late last August and I didn't give the batteries much thought, but this winter the 4D house battery would not take a full charge so I figured I might have a problem. So I dug through the documentation that came with the boat and found that the PO had replaced both batteries in June 2009. Woops - probably time to "get around" to replacement, which of course I hadn't done yet, until last weekend when the electronics and everything else shut themselves down after 15 minutes at anchor and I was barely able to start the engine to get back to shore. So I says to myself, "Self - time to figure out what you're going to do, and do it." After some considerable online research (I'm no battery expert, by any means) and talking to a couple of friends who know more about it than I do (that's not saying much, lol), I bought an Interstate Group 27 "Marine" starting battery and an Interstate SRM-4D house battery with 1314 CCA, 1645 Cranking Amps, and RC Min (whatever that is) of 390 Amp Hours. All of those numbers for the house battery are bigger than what I replaced, so I presume we'll have plenty for our limited cruising, even considering that we anchor much more than tie up in marinas on weekends. Time will tell, I guess...

[drbob]

I too replaced all four batteries with AGMs (all the same). One of the lead acid batteries was making snapping sounds and had a bad sulfur smell (thought it was the head at first) so we changed them all.

I'm curious, how many different types of batteries (series 29, 27, D size) can a battery charger charge without causing a battery with a lower need, slower charging rate, or lesser capacity harm? I've got my battery charger set to charge AGMs and although I thought each battery was dedicated to a different function (generator, bow thruster, start, house), I'm getting the feeling that they're all wired in parallel.

Batteries are mounted on both sides of the Yanmar 315 engine and two batteries sit forward the genset (engine box model). One up in the forward port side corner and the other center under the battery charger (another reason for going with AGMs).

Bob DeGroot
2005 A28TE (Gen, AC) Box model
Cape Coral, FL

[dmorlo52]

I am currently looking to replace my two 8D's as well. I have a 35TE with the 6LY2A-STP 440hp Yanmar and the house battery appears to not be holding a charge so I will replace that and starting battery also. They are 2010 so I guess that's it. Anybody have any advice on going to the maintenance free type for my application? I know they cost more but I read the can last a year or two longer and you don't have to remember to check the water. My Pronautic charger will charge these also.

David
Winedown

[Jeremyvmd]

if your charger will handle it, and the money works - get AGM. There isn't really a downside other than cost IMO...or at least not a significant one. Unfortunatly my charger from 98 doesn't do AGM so I threw some lead acid in there - but have plans to overhaul that system at least once more in the next year to deal with the charger issue...

[recppd]

Okay, I know you guys had ended this discussion in June, but I am a recent 2004 Albin 28 TE Flush Deck owner and am having battery issues. Notwithstanding their age, or type, it appears that EVERYTHING except the engine is connected to a single 8D battery under the fishbox hatch, and then there's a start battery for the engine (and maybe some other electronics). I haven't done an in depth look at how everything is wired yet, however I have noticed that the bow thruster can be turned on with both battery switched off, and the windlass can also do the same. Also, when using the thruster, or even running the radio for an hour or so at anchor, there won't be enough juice to run the Raymarine chartplotter/fishfinder/sounder/radar until the engine runs for a bit to recharge the battery. I am pretty sure the house battery is junk, however, why would the bow thruster and/or windlass (which never gets used) be powered by the house battery? I'm thinking the thruster should have its own battery, the engine should have its own battery, and the house should have its own battery to handle the rest (including windlass as it rarely gets used). Any layouts you guys used would be appreciated. Currently the boat is slipped, so I have shore power to utilize the battery charger (which obviously isn't doing much for the house at this time).

[Russell]

Last year I went through this same learning curve as you can see here: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=8785
Basically the OEM battery switch has 3 poles, battery 1, battery 2 and an output to which they attached both the house and starter cables. So whether you select battery 1, 2 or both they are connected to both the house electronics and starter. The house cable feeds all the electronics except the starter. To charge both batteries while running you must select the BOTH position but this connects the two batteries together and risks having a bad battery drain or ruin the other one. Also starting the engine kills the electronic display unit which is annoying and possibly harmful.
There are other ways some Albin owners addressed this problem but as you will see in the link, I installed the Blue Sea Systems automatic battery combiner and their 4 post battery switch that completely separates the starting and house batteries and circuits but combines the batteries when charging. I really like this system because I can now turn off the engine for long fishing drifts and not worry that any electrical use will drain the starting battery. We leave the electronic display on so we can see the bottom but also use the VHF radio, the stereo, the refrigerator, electric head and freshwater pump.
One thing to keep in mind, the cost of the additional battery cables and fuse boxes to install the system is more than the cost of the Blue Sea ACR and battery switch. But it was well worth it in my opinion.

[Norseman]

Time to wake up this old thread again:
My battery combiner/isolator is Hearth Interface PathMaker, so far it has worked good, out of sight, out of mind. (It is mounted under deck and almost invisible)
The other day I heard a weird humming noise on the boat, no idea what it was, possibly a bilge pump or something. I stared turning all switches and panels off, including the main battery switches. Humming noise still going on.
Finally found the culprit to be the combiner, found a switch on the it’s face panel and turned it off, humming noise stopped.
Checked voltage gauges for each bank after an hour and found a difference of
0.75 volt, switch back on and the voltage readings now showed the same, combiner is working, good.
Humming noise still there, but a bit less, bad.
Time to replace it, looking for a modern replacement and found this:

3A3EB363-4A4F-4F20-853F-7031209423B7.jpeg

Any other ideas for a good replacement for an Albin 28TE with 2 banks: 1 Start battery and 2 house batteries.

[Nancy]

Dag, have you seen this thread?
http://www.albinowners.net/aog/viewtopi ... ner#p37548

[Norseman]

Dag, have you seen this thread?
http://www.albinowners.net/aog/viewtopi ... ner#p37548

Now I did..

Decided on this combiner and ordered it from Amazon, $44.
Limited to 120 amp, plenty margin as the Yanmar alternator can only do 85 amps.

AB228AC4-3C55-4E78-8236-21F1DDE8B06E.jpeg

[catalina_mike]

I used a promariner it priortises charging the start battery first then switches to the house. The way Yanmar tied the alteranator to the starter has to be changed. I ran a new cable from the alternator to the bulkhead where I mounted the device at. Works great.

https://www.promariner.com/en/23121

[Norseman]

I used a promariner it priortises charging the start battery first then switches to the house. The way Yanmar tied the alteranator to the starter has to be changed. I ran a new cable from the alternator to the bulkhead where I mounted the device at. Works great.

https://www.promariner.com/en/23121

Ok, looks good.
Already got the $44.00 isolator from Amazon, otherwise I would consider the Promariner