A27FC '85 bilge pumps

[changer]

This is a post from 2011. No replies,but is my current question so I re-submit this... thanks for any input.
doug/changer A27FC,1985

"Okay I have a question for our more gifted electricians. My weekend project will be bilge pumps. I know my Albin 27 FC has 3 bilge pumps. Currently I think 2 have failed. The one that appears to be working is the one located directly below the transmission. The other two, I am not sure of their location. I think the one most forward serves two purposes, one being a bilge pump and second the grey water pump for the shower. The third and last pump appears to run down by the shaft seal. I cannot confirm these locations but I was hoping that one of you could confirm the locations for me. My question is should the bilge pumps be wired through a breaker, fuse panel, inline fuse or directly to the battery? The last thing I want to fail is the bilge pumps. Any help would be most appreciated"

[JT48348]

If you're worried about your bilge pumps then there's several things to think about. Realistically what do you want your pimp to actually do? Pump out a little wet bilge or keep your boat afloat 3 hours because your away at work.

1) consider what size & how many pumps you need. You probably need a minimum 1500 or 2000gph 12v pump. If the boat is left unattended at a dock for long periods or as a live aboard I would go with an additional 120v 1500gph pump that's running off shore power. I would have pumps go to an independent bilge pump switch which has a light that tells you when it's running & a loud buzzer that goes off at a high water mark or or a certain level of running.

When I lived aboard I ran a 2000gph 12v pump, a 300 gph 12v for the dregs,and a separate 120v 2000gph pump--lighted and buzzer for a high water mark.

2) I would run two pumps together. A large one and a smaller 150-500gph to pump out the dregs. The small pimp should have the closest clearance to the floor of the bottom of the bilge. Check the packaging if you really want to pump a dry bilge

3) you need a manual pump as well accessible from the cockpit for when the batteries fail.

4) I have run my pumps to their own switches, sometimes automatic, and sometimes not and then direct to battery fused as the instructions dictate.

5) pumps & bilge hoses need to be secured and stationary because they flip over and move once flooded.

6) on the A27 the aft most bilge is the lowest point. Check out this link for bilge details

http://www.dejardine.com/styled-4/styled-3/styled-16/

[changer]

JT, Thank you very much for your advice and guidance. I'll do some more investigation of what I have and pursue your recommendations if I am able to with my boat.
Greatly appreciated.

doug/changer

[Beta Don]

Your set-up sounds correct - A minimum of three pumps and the forward one does double duty as a bilge pump and a shower grey water pump

It's a good idea when you buy a used boat to pull out everything, examine the pumps, switches, hoses, clamps and thru hulls and also all the wiring and renew/replace/rewire as needed. I use two 1500 GPH pumps in the main bilge below the transmission coupling, one mounted above the other, each with their own wiring, fuse and float switch - The upper one is for 'emergencies' and never runs unless the one below it can't cope with the leak. I have used this set-up on every boat I've owned and have had at least one occasion with each of them where I was glad to have that extra pump. If your current pump tests OK, I would make that one my 'emergency' pump and buy a new one for the bottom which will see daily use

I like to wire the pumps direct to the battery with a waterproof fuse close to the battery. When the switch turns the pump on it runs without depending on 15 or 20 feet of wiring to dashboard mounted switches and back - Short, direct and simple. *Then* I run a 3 conductor wire up to the dash to a light which comes on every time the pump does *and* a switch so you can manually turn the pump on. Three (or four) pumps, each with it's own switch on the dash and indicator light to alert you that the pump is running

In an emergency, bilge pumps can be very important and the same can be said for boats left unattended in a slip or on a mooring, which is why I like pulling everything out and replacing/rewiring as needed to make sure everything works when they are needed

On my A27, when I took everything apart I discovered that the 1 1/8th 90 degree thru hull just above the waterline for the main pump was cracked about 270 degrees around the exterior mushroom head. Because it was a 90 degree thru hull, there wasn't room for a backing plate and the hole was so near the ridge in the hull that when they tightened the nut on the thru hull, it cracked the head on the outside where you couldn't tell it was broken. If I had not taken *everything* apart and examined it closely, that broken thru hull could have fallen apart at any time and . . . . .

Don

[rnummi]

Thanks I was asking the same thing.

[rnummi]

Is there room under the shower drain to rerout the line into a legitimate sump? I haven't explored the mTate rues of the hanging locker access into the bilge yet. Wonder if the shower drain is the same cheesy setup for the cockpit drains? Ideally ild like a sump and a dedicated forward bilge pump. Have noticed when I get up to speed that the forward drains aft kicking on the engine auto bilge pump.