Albin 27 FC BECKSON ports & screens

[rnummi]

My plan was to paint the ceiling and use wood grain slats from disassembled venetion blinds. I had seen this done in a friends boat many years ago. Blinds to go offers ,"teak" slats w,/o holes in whatever length you need. A couple of fore and aft slats as studs and then the bulk custom cut laid side to side. The concept was the custom teak battens found on old sailboat interiors. Wierd concept but it looked spectacular. The sides were going to be the same with the addition of ply/poly/Formica frames around each port with the battens custom cut to join each port.

My fallback was to rep lug the headliner into place and do the aforementioned on the interior fiberglass hull liner. Just a thought to ponder on.

[changer]

Can anyone tell me the construction of the aft cabin top (outside in)... fiberglass (thickness)....??? to head liner.

Just bought an '85...going to tackle port lights and other ideas for not reinstalling the ( a ) headliner

Thanks
Changer ( Doug)

[sail149]

Doug , welcome,
The sides where the ports are is about 1/8 thick, then 3/8" of maybe rotted plywood, maybe not and if they did it right a layer of fiberglass inside the plywood. ( on mine the forgot the layer inside).
So if your very lucky and lead a good life the plywood will be in good condition and you can remove the ports that are only screwed into the plywood that come loose and lead to leaks, patch a little wood, re bed the ports and Thru bolt thru solid material. The liner is under the ports which install from the inside so it a little hard to figure out how it could ever seal properly. The sealing happens when you caulk under the trim ring which may as well be under the heads of the the bolts or nuts. The liner is often loose near the hull to deck joint as the rusty staples can come loose if the wood strip arround the edge goes soft or rots away!
With An '85 they should have got it sorted out better. The 84' seem to be worse than the '83 which were built under contract by the designer in his own boatyard that he sold to Albin.
How's everything else otherwise? Go boating and fix as you go!
Oh, the roof is like the sides but 3/8"balsa coring instead and a little more glass behind the balsa.
Warren

[JT48348]

I have a 1986 boat. The porthole cabin sides in the aft cabin and the fwd cabin is approximately 1/2" thick total, comprised of an outer Fiberglas skin/gelcoat, 3/8" balsa or plywood core, and some interior fiberglass layup which typically does not extend all the way up to the ceiling.

[JT48348]

A couple of things on the idea of wood slats as headliner. While this is often done on boats there's a little more to it.
I've done this on a 30 ft sailboat.

1) the slats cost money. I question the idea of buying teak slats that can be bought from Blinds to Go. And why would you? First they're not teak. I couldn't find them online. You may as well buy a generic lumber at a big box store and refinish yourself trying to get a "teak" look. Alternately I've bought actual teak slats on craigslist but it's a ton of work to refinish and not too cheap. Teak is a commodity that costs by pound or board foot. It's like buying stainless or composites. It costs what it costs. You may have better luck buying from Maine salvage or wherever if you need real teak.

2) To get the right slat look you need space between the slats and the backdrop needs to look good and be relatively smooth. I would not consider the A27 bare ceiling in this category without some work

3) It's hard to keep clean. If it's on the walls stuff gets stuck between the slats. It's hard to hide wiring and stuff

4) You need supports to screw the slats into. And much stainless hardware. It can be hard to get the slats to look right on complex curves or hull shapes. This would not be my first choice for the ceiling. It's really for a verticle surface.

5) if ur going to put the supports in you'd be better off with panels not slats.


This past weekend I started final sanding on my bathroom project and the fwd cabin. I sat for a long time considering options for a headliner. My plan of the PVC beadboard and Sintra panels is a lot of work and I wish there was a faster easier solution

The only alternative solutions I've come up with is:

A) sand the bare hull interior trying to get a uniform look. I think it's tough going. Tons of work. Idk if that finish is for me.

B) replace the headliner with new headliner. See Sailright

C) use outdoor carpet. It's easier. It's hard to hide wires. And it's a look that depends on colors and finish. I've done this on boats too. Idk if it's something I'd choose again.

I'm continuing with the PVC and Sintra panels for now

[Sprig1]

Hi JT I'm going to try the pvc board on the ceiling. I let you know how it works out. I'm using 1/2 inch plywood strips glued to the ceiling with wiring chases drilled in them for light and fans. I'm going to put 1/4 inch bubble insulation between them and most likely Formica on the sides. Trim pieces are the hard part to hide my mistakes.Trying to decide what type of glue to use to hold them up. Anyone have any ideas I've got a few need some more suggestions. I should start another thread

[sail149]

For gluing to fiberglass the really good stuff is one of the plexus products, it really works.
http://www.compositesone.com/product/su ... tw-plexus/
This requires almost no prep for the fiberglass, you can get in twin caulking tubes with a replaceable mixer on the end, different cure speeds etc. I'm sure they will have a version for gluing other material too.
Why not use the PVC trim board from the depot for gluing to roof under the lining? No rot!
What ever you use I think you wil have to at least temporarily screw it to the inside layer of fiberglass or use lots of props etc.
(hmm...reread you post you are asking about a trim strip glue.....I bet the same stuff has a PVC gluing option...... I would use a few screws too..)

I agree with using Formica on the vertical sides of the cabin sides, ports can go right over for solid sides, I just haven't figured out the transition to under the side deck. For trim pieces to hide joints I would and plan to use the flexible wood look-a-like strips from the depot and others, I've had this as skirting board in my little house for 15,years and nobody but me knows it's not real wood and it still looks as good as the day I put it in , I've never had to refinish it, bumped it may times with vacuum cleaner and no issues.
Comes in colors too, it has a semi hard foam core.( I glued mine in place with double sided tape at top and construction adhesive , my walls are very hard plaster) in some later new construction we trim nailed , much easier, carpenters laughed at first then loved it as it has a lovely finish look when they were done.
Warren

[JT48348]

If you're doing PVC beadboard on ceiling, which way will your lines go? Fore and aft or side to side ?

This is an example of what I'm going for. Lines fore and aft. PVC only on the high cabin sides from the elbow to the ceiling. The ceiling is solid Sintra large panel or two. Verticle walls also smooth.

[Beta Don]

It will be difficult to use either bead-board or carpet on the ceiling - It's a compound curve and you can't bend the bead-board two directions at once. If you do it with carpet, you'll have wrinkles, plus, you'll have problems with the glue holding it up there long term

I think the whole purpose of using faux teak slats from window blinds is: 1.) It's a very practical solution to a complex problem. 2.) They're NOT real teak, but they look like they are. 3.) They're cheap. 4.) They're prefinished and the finish is durable. 5.) They're easy to bend and won't split or break like real teak slats would. 6.) Buying the stainless hardware in packs of 100 is cheap too. What's not to like?? If the space between them is small (1/8th to 3/16ths or so) it really doesn't matter how 'pretty' the overhead liner under them is - Paint it a contrasting color and you'll never notice the imperfections

Don

[JT48348]

Not sure which compound curve you're referring to.Would you run the slats fore and aft or side to side?

But it any case you can heat and bend the PVC beadboard and Sintra on some compound curves. There are many online videos of people doing this for cosplay costumes etc. you wouldn't necessarily do this anyway. You would create "panels" that cover simple curves. Then cover the edges with trim pieces.

For PVC or Sintra: i envision 2-3 panels on the fwd cabin ceiling. One across the fwd cabin bubble. A separate 1-2 panels for head ceiling. Then coverings down the cabin sides below the elbow to meet with the pan liner.

Old headliner might be an excellent pattern but I tossed mine so will make new ones. For carpet: there would be no difference in make up on the ceiling. There were no wrinkles in the headliner, there would be none in the carpet.

[sail149]

Anybody looking for barrel bolts to bolt up the ports, Jamestown dist have them as well as Beckson,
I think they are cheaper, they have SS and brass/chrome
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... +-+25+Pack
Warren

[rnummi]

Anybody have an guidance on installing the new Beckson port light seals? What a PITA. I'm looking for basics like plug in corner first use a straight edge, etc.

[Jay Knoll]

Richard

This help? http://beckson.com/installgasket.html

Jay

[rnummi]

Thanks Jay, I was just wondering if there was an easier way. Man, how tedious is 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch.... I know it says no lubricants, but.... holy moly.

[Jay Knoll]

I used a dead blow hammer to help get the gasket to seat. And the "pre stretching" suggestion really works