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A27 headliner replacement
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:05 am
- Home Port: Long Cove Marina, Chester River Maryland
A27 headliner replacement
I started a new thread for headliner replacement. I ripped the old headliner out and sanded the ceiling. I've cut 1/2 inch exterior bc plywood into 1 1/4 inch strips and scored the back so it bends easier. I tried to glue it up with pl375 it took to long to dry. I used gorilla construction adhesive worked great quick setting and seems strong. I had to use very little support with it. I went to Lowes and got 1/4 inch PVC wainscoting 8 feet long. It will run fore and aft on the ceiling. I'm going to screw it up with 1/2 inch stainless screws with there heads painted white. The screws will be recessed. 1/4 inch foam will go between the strips for a little insulation. Hopefully stop it from sweating. It looks pretty straight forward. I'm going to glue it directly to the ceiling in the head for a little more room. I have to put Formica or I have some 1/16 PVC smooth sheet on the cabin sides and in the bow curve. This needs to be done first then the ceiling. Also going to glue the wainscoting to the pilot house roof to dress it up some. We will see how it turns out. Comments are greatly appreciated
- JT48348
- First Mate
- Posts: 755
- Joined: Sun Jul 27, 2014 11:38 am
- Home Port: Detroit
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Re: A27 headliner replacement
Sprig:I'm doing the PVC beadboard window experiment tomorrow and will post photos. I made patterns today for all walls and started on Windows and I will be trying Sintra and fiberglass panels experiments to see how the finish quality looks. Please post photos as you move along so we can compare notes
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:05 am
- Home Port: Long Cove Marina, Chester River Maryland
Re: A27 headliner replacement
Hi JT I got all the cross pieces glued up in the ceiling today hope they hold. Im putting the wainscoting on the ceiling not the sides. I glued 1/16 PVC board around the port lights today in one solid piece. It looks pretty good fast easy and cheap. You can still feel some imperfections under it but you can't see them only feel them. My dlema is the forward curve put the 1/16 th PVC and pack out all the strips with insulation to give it some backing because it's not very ridged. Or put wainscoting there to but then you have problems with the lines. I'll try to post pictures tomorrow they don't seem to be coming over from my phone
- JT48348
- First Mate
- Posts: 755
- Joined: Sun Jul 27, 2014 11:38 am
- Home Port: Detroit
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Re: A27 headliner replacement
Well my attempt at putting the PVC wainscoting on the cabin sides by the Windows failed. Because it comes in planks rather than a sheet I first put the planks together and glued the seams. I cut the finished panel in the shape of a pattern I made covering the cabin & window just fwd of the new head bulkhead. The wainscoting is about 3/16-1/4" thick. I tried heat molding it to the elbow of the cabin but it was just too thick and the seams looked like crap. In addition the angles of the v- berth liner, the bulkhead etc meant the panel had to be bent at a 90 degree angle before it was installed. The bottom line is the wainscoting became brittle to handle and just too hard to work with for the look it created.
I then tried 1/8" Sintra with a lot better results. Using the same pattern I cut out the panel and then bent it using a heat gun on a sort of jig I created on a shop table. Sintra cuts with a sharpe razor and can be trimmed as you fit it. It warmed easily and bent to 90 degrees with little effort. The 1/8" Sintra is very pliable and easy to bend, twist etc. It took heat from a heat gun set on high and steady pressure to get it to bend, but was really pretty easy.
The panel slid right in place. It makes a great finish for the walls, it's tight to the porthole opening which will make installing the portholes easy. The fact that the panel curves completely around the elbow and covers the underside of the cabin wall makes everything very clean. The key as always is a tight pattern. The panels will easily cover imperfections on the cabin top and it can be bent slightly to cover the various curves etc. you just go right over or around them. I will be able to put Reflexit insulation behind it and run lighting wires.
Sintra comes with a matte finish so I wanted to see how it took paint. I did one coat of rustoleum marine gloss white and it came out great.
I may use the wainscoting as a facing for the bulkheads. A sheet 48x96 of 3mm Sintra is about $30. I need to install 1/4" thick X 1" battens to the ceiling and cabin sides and attach the panels there. Thinking of using exterior grade liquid nails for the battens. I'll trim the joints in either teak or painted PVC trim.
I then tried 1/8" Sintra with a lot better results. Using the same pattern I cut out the panel and then bent it using a heat gun on a sort of jig I created on a shop table. Sintra cuts with a sharpe razor and can be trimmed as you fit it. It warmed easily and bent to 90 degrees with little effort. The 1/8" Sintra is very pliable and easy to bend, twist etc. It took heat from a heat gun set on high and steady pressure to get it to bend, but was really pretty easy.
The panel slid right in place. It makes a great finish for the walls, it's tight to the porthole opening which will make installing the portholes easy. The fact that the panel curves completely around the elbow and covers the underside of the cabin wall makes everything very clean. The key as always is a tight pattern. The panels will easily cover imperfections on the cabin top and it can be bent slightly to cover the various curves etc. you just go right over or around them. I will be able to put Reflexit insulation behind it and run lighting wires.
Sintra comes with a matte finish so I wanted to see how it took paint. I did one coat of rustoleum marine gloss white and it came out great.
I may use the wainscoting as a facing for the bulkheads. A sheet 48x96 of 3mm Sintra is about $30. I need to install 1/4" thick X 1" battens to the ceiling and cabin sides and attach the panels there. Thinking of using exterior grade liquid nails for the battens. I'll trim the joints in either teak or painted PVC trim.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:05 am
- Home Port: Long Cove Marina, Chester River Maryland
Re: A27 headliner replacement
Wow looks good. I wish I could of gotten 1/8. Didn't bend my PVC board all the way around yet. I don't know whether the hull deck joint leaks. I used gorilla construction adhesive seemed to work pretty good. Pl fast set was my next choice would of probably used it first if I had found it first.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:05 am
- Home Port: Long Cove Marina, Chester River Maryland
Re: A27 headliner replacement
I'm coming along on the ceiling. It is slow going but going up well.
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- sail149
- Gold Member
- Posts: 344
- Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:30 pm
- Home Port: Stuck at home on trailer! Chesapeake bay intended....
- Location: Eastern PA
Re: A27 headliner replacement
I just saw this thin product on homedepot.
They sell it in a 4x8 as a shelf liner but it's super bendy.
Not sure how to use it it's probably too floppy to be self supporting and I don't know if it's glue-able but if you are in the store check it out it could be used for say lining the inside of a locker with rough fiberglass if contact cement would work with it.
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Warren
'84. 27AC. Lehman 4D61
'84. 27AC. Lehman 4D61
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:05 am
- Home Port: Long Cove Marina, Chester River Maryland
Re: A27 headliner replacement
Hi Warren that's what I used on the sides. Only problem with it is when it gets hot it bubbles up where it's not clued well. I'm only having that trouble in the pilot house all the rest looks good. I'm almost done it turned out well. I'm putting the trim up now. Does anyone know of a good source of 1/2 or 3/4 inch quarter round teak. I did the headliner in the main cabin and the pilot house. Pictures will follow if anyone is interested.
- sail149
- Gold Member
- Posts: 344
- Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:30 pm
- Home Port: Stuck at home on trailer! Chesapeake bay intended....
- Location: Eastern PA
Re: A27 headliner replacement
Chris
Very interested in photos you headliner was looking really good, a classic install.
Post lots!
Have you looked at the Fake 1/4 round with a wood printed overlay it's not teak color but it is cherry or oak or white , HD has it. I have it in my house it really looks good to me and is rot proof and never needs finishing.
I think the cherry looks like dark teak and it is gently bendable so will not take much to hold in place....in my house it's mainly just glued or double sticky tape holding it! But a boat would need small screws or nails.
Also you can cut with a razor knife too!
Very interested in photos you headliner was looking really good, a classic install.
Post lots!
Have you looked at the Fake 1/4 round with a wood printed overlay it's not teak color but it is cherry or oak or white , HD has it. I have it in my house it really looks good to me and is rot proof and never needs finishing.
I think the cherry looks like dark teak and it is gently bendable so will not take much to hold in place....in my house it's mainly just glued or double sticky tape holding it! But a boat would need small screws or nails.
Also you can cut with a razor knife too!
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Warren
'84. 27AC. Lehman 4D61
'84. 27AC. Lehman 4D61
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:33 pm
- Home Port: St. Petersburg Municipal Marina, St. Pete Fla.
- Location: Tampa Florida
Re: A27 headliner replacement
Keep pictures coming Chris. Your doing my next big project.
RNummi
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
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- Mate
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2016 1:20 pm
- Home Port: Deka Lake
Re: A27 headliner replacement
ME TOO!Headliner next! THXS For the ideas!!
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:05 am
- Home Port: Long Cove Marina, Chester River Maryland
Re: A27 headliner replacement
Hi I'm coming along on my project slowly it's not perfect but a lot better then what was there I hope. Gorilla construction adhesive seems to be the glue to use. I tried Pl fast set I think it's stronger after drying but it doesn't set up very quick and if not supported well falls down easily. Every piece of PVC wainscoting has to be cut both ends it takes awhile you will get good at scribbling. The companionway was the hardest I had to extend the trim so the ceiling came out flat. Here's some pictures I haven't done the trim yet so it looks unfinished sorta like a sheet rocked room without the trim a little bare. Sorry I'm having problems up loading and they are up side down. I'll have to go read what Warren wrote about pictures again
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- Gold Member
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- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:05 am
- Home Port: Long Cove Marina, Chester River Maryland
Re: A27 headliner replacement
Another photo sorry upside down again
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- Gold Member
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- Home Port: St. Petersburg Municipal Marina, St. Pete Fla.
- Location: Tampa Florida
Re: A27 headliner replacement
That looks fantastic! You're doing a great job. My only whine would be "did you take measurements for those that follow"? It sounds like each piece is custom scribed and cut. How are you filling the gaps between panel and cabin side (where the port lights will pull in the material?
RNummi
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
- JT48348
- First Mate
- Posts: 755
- Joined: Sun Jul 27, 2014 11:38 am
- Home Port: Detroit
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Re: A27 headliner replacement
That's looking good! How difficult did you find cutting & fitting the beadboard piece by piece. I made giant patterns and wonder if this will allow me to precut everything with just minor trimmings afterwards.
Got my backing plates installed. I'm ising scraps of 1/2" coosa with fiberglass on one side. The fiberglass side does on the bottom. I attach the backing plates to the underside of the deck using thickened epoxy. Because I over sized drilled &filled all my deck hills. I will re-drill all my holes so everything lines up.
So many steps involved in this:
-remove trim & headliner
- remove deck fittings & wiring
- sand inner fiberglass
-repair & refill holes
- install backing blocks
- install ceiling battens
- pressure wash
- paint raw interior
Got my backing plates installed. I'm ising scraps of 1/2" coosa with fiberglass on one side. The fiberglass side does on the bottom. I attach the backing plates to the underside of the deck using thickened epoxy. Because I over sized drilled &filled all my deck hills. I will re-drill all my holes so everything lines up.
So many steps involved in this:
-remove trim & headliner
- remove deck fittings & wiring
- sand inner fiberglass
-repair & refill holes
- install backing blocks
- install ceiling battens
- pressure wash
- paint raw interior
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