Our boat came with a set of Bennett trim tabs located in little pockets on the stern. There are two sets of controls, one at the main helm, and one on the flybridge. There is a power panel at the helm with a switch for the tabs as well as one on the flybridge (all switches are duplicated so each device has two power sources). The fuses in both panels are good.
When we bought the boat, the trim tab controls at the helm worked, but on the flybridge they did not. Now neither work. Again, the fuses are still good and the switches are both on (I've tried it with each on on independently as well).
The bottom was freshly painted in October, so there is no growth on the hull, but there is some kelp growth on the tabs. Since they are in the pockets, it's hard to see just how much growth there is, but it looks to be significant. Is it likely that this growth is causing them to stick and not deploy? I figured they were hydraulic and probably had plenty of power to break free against some wimpy little seaweed and barnacles, but I really don't know how much force they actually have.
Should I just jump in the water with a scraper and pry-bar and try to break them loose, or is my problem more likely related to electrical or hydraulics?
• Welcome to https://albinowners.net, the new home of Albin Owners Group!
• You will need to log in here, and you may want to bookmark this site. If you don't remember your password, use the I forgot my password link to reset it.
• All content has been transferred from our previous site.
• Contact Us if you have any questions or notice a problem. If you're not receiving our email, include a phone number where we can text you.
• You will need to log in here, and you may want to bookmark this site. If you don't remember your password, use the I forgot my password link to reset it.
• All content has been transferred from our previous site.
• Contact Us if you have any questions or notice a problem. If you're not receiving our email, include a phone number where we can text you.
FAQ:
• Membership information
• Burgees
• How to post photos
• Membership information
• Burgees
• How to post photos
Trim Tabs not working
Moderator: Jeremyvmd
-
Mariner
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1450
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:18 am
- Location: Gig Harbor, WA
-
jcollins
- In Memorium
- Posts: 4927
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:05 pm
- Home Port: Baltimore
- Location: Seneca Creek Marina
- Contact:
Mariner,
In all the boats I've ever owned, Bennet tabs have been the single most reliable thing.
Assuming you've checked all the wiring, it could be the switch itself.
But, the first thing I would check is the fluid. Your right about it being strong enough to break away any growth. Keep the fluid topped off.
There is also a relay, near the fluid reservoir, that can go bad.
1. check fluid
2. check switch (you can hot-wire to test) ((probably not recommended by Bennet))
3. check relay (I think there is a pop-up breaker in there)
In all the boats I've ever owned, Bennet tabs have been the single most reliable thing.
Assuming you've checked all the wiring, it could be the switch itself.
But, the first thing I would check is the fluid. Your right about it being strong enough to break away any growth. Keep the fluid topped off.
There is also a relay, near the fluid reservoir, that can go bad.
1. check fluid
2. check switch (you can hot-wire to test) ((probably not recommended by Bennet))
3. check relay (I think there is a pop-up breaker in there)
John
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
-
Mariner
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1450
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:18 am
- Location: Gig Harbor, WA
John,
Just curious, does your boat also have the trim tabs set in the pockets like the Express Trawler?
I'd never seen that before and thought it was quite clever. Now if only it had a pocket for a drop down trolling motor as well, I'd be really happy.
And I will have to get down to the boat to check out the circuit breakers in the relay. Not sure where that is, but I'm sure I can track it down. I would assume it's near the reservoir, which does appear to be topped off.
Just curious, does your boat also have the trim tabs set in the pockets like the Express Trawler?
I'd never seen that before and thought it was quite clever. Now if only it had a pocket for a drop down trolling motor as well, I'd be really happy.
And I will have to get down to the boat to check out the circuit breakers in the relay. Not sure where that is, but I'm sure I can track it down. I would assume it's near the reservoir, which does appear to be topped off.
-
DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Mariner,
Hope John doesn't mind a reference to another forum but you should visit "tabman's" forum section at The Hull Truth. The section is run by Tom McGow of Bennett Marine and he knows, or will find out for you, just about anything you could ever want to know about Bennett tabs. He's also very responsive and has a standard "trouble shooting guide". He's helped me out in the past and seems like an all around nice guy. I've included the link below, hope it helps.
Doug
http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/forum-view.asp?fid=4
Hope John doesn't mind a reference to another forum but you should visit "tabman's" forum section at The Hull Truth. The section is run by Tom McGow of Bennett Marine and he knows, or will find out for you, just about anything you could ever want to know about Bennett tabs. He's also very responsive and has a standard "trouble shooting guide". He's helped me out in the past and seems like an all around nice guy. I've included the link below, hope it helps.
Doug
http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/forum-view.asp?fid=4
-
Elizabeth Ann
- Gold Member
- Posts: 423
- Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 5:17 pm
- Location: Babylon, NY / Miami, FL
-
jcollins
- In Memorium
- Posts: 4927
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:05 pm
- Home Port: Baltimore
- Location: Seneca Creek Marina
- Contact:
Mariner,Mariner wrote:John,
Just curious, does your boat also have the trim tabs set in the pockets like the Express Trawler?
I'd never seen that before and thought it was quite clever. Now if only it had a pocket for a drop down trolling motor as well, I'd be really happy.
And I will have to get down to the boat to check out the circuit breakers in the relay. Not sure where that is, but I'm sure I can track it down. I would assume it's near the reservoir, which does appear to be topped off.
No. I don't have pockets for my trim tabs. That is a nice addition to the design.
Doug,
As far as posting other sites? Go for it! That is a good site to post. I'll add it to the links section.
John
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
-
Mariner
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1450
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:18 am
- Location: Gig Harbor, WA
I briefly checked out the thread at The Hull Truth and will go back there with more questions, but I wanted to keep the disucssion going here as well, since there are some parts of this that I think are manufacturer releated. I will post any further advice or experience here as well, to benefit everyone.
Yesterday I spent a couple hours crawling around in the boat and this is what I came up with:
The reservoir in the stern appears to be in good working order. The fluid level is fine, and everything LOOKS good. There are no leaks, and no visible electrical shorts. However, I was not able to locate any relay device anywhere in the boat. I looked everywhere I could think of, but couldn't find anything. There is one set of wires coming into the pump, and one each set of wires leaving the two switches. I could not find anywhere where they were joined. No relay box, no bus bar, nothing. I used a multimeter at both stations to test the switches. Both are getting power. The lower helm switches (which used to work) does not seem to work. I tested the voltage on the ouput side of the switches and I get nothing. I get a solid 13 volts on the input, but on the outputs, I don't get anything when the switches are pressed. I tested their continuity, and they seem to work fine, with little resistance. So that doesn't really make sense to me.
On the flybridge helm switches (which never worked), there is clearly voltage on the output side when the buttons are pressed, as well as good continuity. However, these still don't actuate the pump. I observed the pump while the buttons at both helms were pushed and there is absoutely no activity. I did not voltage test at the pump because the wires coming out of it are sealed and I'm not ready to cut them yet. I'm still hoping to find a "smoking gun" somewhere (like a loose wire, or shorted circuit). From all three locations (lower helm, upper helm, and pump) the wires leave the unit and quickly enter a large wiring bundle making it pretty hard to trace them.
Should there be a relay somewhere? What is the common practice for wiring multiple station systems? Will there just be a bus bar somewhere where they are joined, or will they just have been crimped together somewhere in the bundle? Or, worse, is it possible that the upper station was simply never connected? I'm beginning to suspect that the lower station switch is faulty (it did get a litte wet recently), and that the upper station switch is simply not connected. Is it common for these switch units to fail becuase of a little water? They seem to me like they would be at least mostly waterproof, since they're sold as a marine product.
I was unable to find any manuals for the tab system on the boat. I'm going to check Bennett's website, but I don't recall seeing anything there.
Yesterday I spent a couple hours crawling around in the boat and this is what I came up with:
The reservoir in the stern appears to be in good working order. The fluid level is fine, and everything LOOKS good. There are no leaks, and no visible electrical shorts. However, I was not able to locate any relay device anywhere in the boat. I looked everywhere I could think of, but couldn't find anything. There is one set of wires coming into the pump, and one each set of wires leaving the two switches. I could not find anywhere where they were joined. No relay box, no bus bar, nothing. I used a multimeter at both stations to test the switches. Both are getting power. The lower helm switches (which used to work) does not seem to work. I tested the voltage on the ouput side of the switches and I get nothing. I get a solid 13 volts on the input, but on the outputs, I don't get anything when the switches are pressed. I tested their continuity, and they seem to work fine, with little resistance. So that doesn't really make sense to me.
On the flybridge helm switches (which never worked), there is clearly voltage on the output side when the buttons are pressed, as well as good continuity. However, these still don't actuate the pump. I observed the pump while the buttons at both helms were pushed and there is absoutely no activity. I did not voltage test at the pump because the wires coming out of it are sealed and I'm not ready to cut them yet. I'm still hoping to find a "smoking gun" somewhere (like a loose wire, or shorted circuit). From all three locations (lower helm, upper helm, and pump) the wires leave the unit and quickly enter a large wiring bundle making it pretty hard to trace them.
Should there be a relay somewhere? What is the common practice for wiring multiple station systems? Will there just be a bus bar somewhere where they are joined, or will they just have been crimped together somewhere in the bundle? Or, worse, is it possible that the upper station was simply never connected? I'm beginning to suspect that the lower station switch is faulty (it did get a litte wet recently), and that the upper station switch is simply not connected. Is it common for these switch units to fail becuase of a little water? They seem to me like they would be at least mostly waterproof, since they're sold as a marine product.
I was unable to find any manuals for the tab system on the boat. I'm going to check Bennett's website, but I don't recall seeing anything there.
-
jcollins
- In Memorium
- Posts: 4927
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:05 pm
- Home Port: Baltimore
- Location: Seneca Creek Marina
- Contact:
-
Mariner
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1450
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:18 am
- Location: Gig Harbor, WA
I haven't had time to test the switches yet. I am planning to go out tomorrow armed with a printed copy of Tabman's troubleshooting guide.
They are the standard rocker type switches. We don't have the Tab Position Indicator, but I'd like one. However, it requires removing the boat from the water to install it, which is not going to happen for at least a couple years.
They are the standard rocker type switches. We don't have the Tab Position Indicator, but I'd like one. However, it requires removing the boat from the water to install it, which is not going to happen for at least a couple years.
-
Mariner
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1450
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:18 am
- Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Well, I finally had time to get down and really troubleshoot this problem thoroughly.
What I found was that when I bypassed the switches and applied power directly to the pump and solenoid, they worked just fine. Then, working backwards, I bypassed the power input line for the switches, and they worked just fine. Even though the input line appeared to have power when tested on the multimeter, for some reason, it did not work in practice. So, I'm rigging a bypass that will cut out the power supply line and give it power directly from the fuse buss in the instrument panel. I chose this route becuase: 1. It is closer and easier to wire, and will have less voltage drop. 2. There is a fuse buss already in place with an open spot. 3. I have tested it and know that it will work.
This applies only to the actuator switch at the main helm. I have not even begun to troubleshoot the switch on the flybridge, but I suspect I will find the same solution applies.
This means that aside from one lose stantion post on the swimstep, the boat will be in top condition and ready for the cruise north next week. (Parents taking it north on Saturday, I will swap with them in mid August). It feels good to get this stuff worked out.
What I found was that when I bypassed the switches and applied power directly to the pump and solenoid, they worked just fine. Then, working backwards, I bypassed the power input line for the switches, and they worked just fine. Even though the input line appeared to have power when tested on the multimeter, for some reason, it did not work in practice. So, I'm rigging a bypass that will cut out the power supply line and give it power directly from the fuse buss in the instrument panel. I chose this route becuase: 1. It is closer and easier to wire, and will have less voltage drop. 2. There is a fuse buss already in place with an open spot. 3. I have tested it and know that it will work.
This applies only to the actuator switch at the main helm. I have not even begun to troubleshoot the switch on the flybridge, but I suspect I will find the same solution applies.
This means that aside from one lose stantion post on the swimstep, the boat will be in top condition and ready for the cruise north next week. (Parents taking it north on Saturday, I will swap with them in mid August). It feels good to get this stuff worked out.
