Question about raw water stainer on 28TE.

[Cape Codder]

While on the mooring, can I open the top of the strainer, and inspect WITHOUT closing off the valve on the thru-hull?
Previous owner said that the valve has never been closed in his memory, and he thought it would be very tough to move.
I should probably get that valve free, but hate to force something and take a chance in breaking it.
I have used the boat about 15 hours, and have not inspected the strainer.
Running temp is fine.
Thanks

[Pitou]

Taking the cover off an open seacock is usually a taboo. Can you do it, I suppose, but you will get wet and it goes against all physics / nothing like a 2 inch hole in the bottom of the boat. More importantly, get that seacock fixed. If your intake hose failed you could slow it down with duct tape (should have a roll in every boat tool bag). You need to be able to shut it down. Try sliding a long open pipe over the handle for leverage to break it free otherwise I would haul and lubricate from below until free. I spray and exercise all seacocks at fall haul and spring commissioning time with lubricant. They should also be exercised throughout the season.
Check those strainers often, best of luck on yet another boat project !

[Tuxedo]

If the top of the strainer is above the waterline, you can open it without flooding the boat. On my 31, it is, and I open and clean it periodically without closing the seacock.

BTW, my seacock is very stiff, but it's easier to close when the engine room is hot.

[JackK]

On my 2003 28 - Yes you can. It is well above the waterline.
I put a little Sea-Lube on the threads of the strainer cover to keep it from binding.

You definately want to work that seacock (gently). The dealer advised that whenever I have the hatch open to just open and close it a couple of times to prevent what you are seeing now. When she's on the hard, I spray WD40 up through the thru-hull while someone above works the seacock back and forth.

Jack

[chiefrcd]

My head intake seacock was frozen in place, I sprayed it with WD 40 really well and within a few hours it had freed up. I just soaked the base of the handle where it fits into the valve. When I bought my Albin 28 which is a 99 the seacock was frozen open as well. I had it replaced.

[Cape Codder]

Thanks for all the advice and answers.
VERY helpful.
I'll work that valve, and do my best to get it free.
I don't feel real confident when that's stuck.
In the meantime, I can check the strainer while at rest.

Thanks again.

[DougSea]

My view on seacocks is, if they're stuck they'd better be stuck CLOSED!

Since I keep my boat on a mooring, with no shorepower, I do everything I can to make sure I'm not relying on my bilge pump to keep my boat afloat. One of the things I do is keep ALL thru-hulls closed when I'm not on board. This has the advantage of ensuring that a hose failure doesn't sink the boat but also exercises all of the valves so nothing gets stuck. Plus it forces me to take a look at the thru-hulls and have a good sense of how things are looking "down below".

If you're considering doing the same you might want to make up a little reminder sign that you keep by the starter switch since starting the engine with the raw water shut off is generally considered a "really bad idea!"

[Mariner]

I think the answer as to whether or not you CAN remove the strainer has been answered. The question remaining, however, is SHOULD you. I think no, just because it's likely to result in sea water getting in the engine compartment, which is never good, even if it's just a small amount.

As for the seacock, you need to get that un-stuck. Once you get it un-stuck, you need to exercise it more often. I know few people do this, but you really should close all through-hulls whenever you're not using the boat. I'm somewhat embarassed to say I don't do this every time, but I have on all previous boats. The 28' is a small enough boat, with few enough through-hulls, that this shouldn't be too arduous of a task to tackle before and after each outing. I think I will start doing this on our boat. Not only will it prevent a sinking in the case of a failure, but it also keeps the valves free so they will work in an emergency.

[Pitou]

Good Advice Mariner & DougSea /

A short start-up and shutdown instruction sheet posted at the helm will develop good habits helping to prevent catastrophe.
After a brief outing, while doing my shutdown last week (including closing all seacocks) I noticed an orange tinge in the bilge. I know I'm deep in a river and tannins from runoff can sometimes be extreme, but really . Opened up the engine box to find Dex Cool all over the stern port side of the box. Found a small crack in the coolant line off the engine leading to the hot water tank (coming off the motor right at the elbow after the shutoff). I made the repair & added 6 quarts of 50/50 Dex Cool. Not bad could have been worse / whole system holds about 25 quarts as I recall.

Opening and closing seacocks at start-up and shutdown not only exercises them and keeps them working , you get to see alot of your boat that you may not always get to see potentially saving mucho $$$$.

[JackK]

When I first got the 28, I shut the seacocks each time I came in. It is a major pain the neck ....

(1) The helm seat must be removed to open the engine hatch to get at the seacocks for the head intake and overboard discharge.

(2) Lift the center fish box (hydraulic) to get at the raw water cooling seacock.

(3) Lift the port side hatch and remove the storage box to shut off the saltwater washdown and baitwell seacocks.

A 4:00 am start to a fishing trip turns into 4:30 before you blink an eye.
I agree to be as safe as possible, I should close them. It just isn't practical to get at them.

Jack

[Pitou]

I sure do like those flush decks though. Great cockpit with lots of room for fishing.
On the engine box model / salwater wash & baitwell pump : port rear hatch easy to get to / engine seawater intake : starboard rear hatch easy to get to / AC & genset : center hatch in wheel house easy to get to / saltwater intake for head and overboard discharge : center hatch in wheelhouse then waaaayyyyy under helm seat PITA must must twist and shout and become a pretzel.
Usually we get a warning shot on these leaks / just a good idea to peak in the bilge at the end of and begining of the trip. I certainly can't blame the 28 Flush Deck guys for not going through what JackK describes. I can say I sometimes say "oh scr**## it I'll be back in the A.M.." (true confessions )

[chiefrcd]

I trained my first mate to handle all of the seacocks.....mostly becasue I can hardly fit down in the center compartment. Works really well.

[Mariner]

I trained my first mate to handle all of the seacocks.....mostly becasue I can hardly fit down in the center compartment. Works really well.

LOL

[jcollins]

I have a question about this. Getting back to the strainer. I can open the top o.k. Now that it's open, how do I clean this out? I just don't know and don't have a manual for it.

Thanks,

[chiefrcd]

John,
There is a basket that fits down into the seacock housing. You pull this basket out and clean it out. Note which way the basket handle is facing as there is a little trick to getting it back in, at least for mine. First I can just stick the basket back in and turn the handle so that the cap will fit...but sometimes it won't completley close. I have to twist (rotate) the basket clockwise/counter clockwise and it seems to drop down into a "notch". Once I find this "notch" and get my basket handle turned to the right spot, my cap will fit back properly. Remember to tighten each side down a little at a time. If you tighten one side too much the other side won't seal.

Btw...I never leave my boat without closing every seacock on the boat, including the keystone valve. I've seen two boats sink at the dock due to hose failures, one was a brand new sailboat who's hose clamps were not tight enough.