Bilge sea cock

[Beta Don]

I would imagine it's a brass NPT (National Pipe Thread) standard pipe plug - You'd just need to know the size

Here's a 3/4 inch plug - http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-Brass-Count ... SwnH1WW~wE

Here's a 1 inch - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parker-Brass-1- ... OHC-xVpiZw

Here's a 1 1/4 inch - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brass-Fittings- ... tC&vxp=mtr

Don

[Beta Don]

Here's a 1 1/2 inch - http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BRASS-1-1-2 ... Swo0JWF8wm

Here's the whole fitting for someone who needs to add a drain - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Hull-Garbo ... NJ&vxp=mtr

Don

[rnummi]

Do all A27s have the plug? I don't see one down there. Don's Marine Salvage and West both have the fitting... Could someone comment on the drain path that leads to the keel cavity... Why would you seal it up or reinsert as the case may be?

[rnummi]

I have a real bad feeling about this......I think this is where my bilge plug "was".....if you look closely you can see glass mat peaking out on an edge.... %%#}%^^^!!!!!

[Beta Don]

My early '84 model did not have one - I *think* only the 6 cylinder boats had that plug because their stuffing box is in that aft compartment. 4D61 boats have the prop shaft inside a fiberglass tube running through that compartment, so theoretically there should not be any water in the aft end of the keel, so no need to drain it. The plug is to remove water when you put the boat on the hard so it doesn't freeze

Not sure where on the keel your photo is of - It doesn't look good, but I don't think there's a missing plug there

Don

[rnummi]

I'm going to get down there and sand to see what lovely pseudo repairs have been made. It's literally 12 inches forward of stern keel end. Here's the other side.... Same location. If I had to guess, ild say wrong lift point crack?

[rnummi]

Better view of location....these are also motivational pics for Chris who now gets to say "and I thought I had problems...."

[Sprig1]

Man that is a mess. My hull looks great compared to that. That dose make me feel better thanks. My boat has a drain hole and thank goodness it did.

[rnummi]

Yeah, I'm afraid to dive under there and see what's up.

[smacksman]

Looks as though it could be old damage repair from a grounding.
As someone who has vast experience of running aground in the ICW (including the notorious 'rock pile' in a sailboat) that location is the place where the bottom paint is rubbed off.
Overhead fibreglass repairs are tricky with gravity wanting to reduce the wetting out of the matt.
Maybe wait till you are at a stage where the boat is off the trailer and chocked up and you can get at it.
No big deal to make a proper repair.
Bye the way, Free State does not have a bilge drain plug but did have rain water in the aft bilge when I got her but dry since.
Back to the thread topic - sea cocks. My preferance is for the sea cock to be inegral with the skin fitting or through hull as you say in the States. Something like a Blakes sea cock. The ideal is to have the cock as close to the hull as possible with no joint/pipe fitting/pipework in between to fail.
Tapered wooden plugs, one for each skin fitting bore is also good insurance to carry.
Roger

[tego]

Rick, I agree with Roger. It looks like grounding damage based on the shape of the damage. Someone probably repaired it with poly instead of epoxy. If you mix polyester resin wrong or the temperature isn't right, it doesn't wet out well and adhesion is affected. Epoxy sticks much better. I don't think that damage is of any significance and will probably be the easiest thing to repair on your boat! Ben

[ScubaPete]

This is called a garboard drain plug, and is available everywhere, depending on the size you want.

[smacksman]

A quick way to sink your boat, Pete. Brass will de-zincify and fall out.

[rnummi]

So the obvious follow on, if it wasn't there should I put one in when I make the repairs to the location indicated.

[smacksman]

Personally speaking, the less holes in the bottom the better. Engine inlet and heads inlet and that's it. Even the heads outlet can be above LWL as in the States you can only pump overboard at sea. The difference in price between a 3/4" and a 11/2" sea cock is huge.
With GPS even a ships log is not essential. If the GPS goes down, as happened to me in the Gulf, with experience you can judge your speed on engine revs + sea state + wind and tide quite accurately for dead reckoning (talking coast hopping not ocean crossing here).
If a bilge doesn't have access then make one with a hatch.
Shower sumps are best kept seperate from the bilge as they stink and hair clogs the pumps so easy access for cleaning the sump and pump is a must.
A portable bilge pump is fine for de-watering a normally dry compartment on the odd occasions it takes on water. On wooden boats you have limber holes from stem to stern to drain bilge water to a central sump but not in plastic boats.
If you are laying up and want a dry bilge then a sponge will soon get out the last dribble.
Cockpit drains must do their job and be kept clean to stop rain water getting below.
Opening ports must seal tight.
Here endeth Roger's 2 cents on the subject. )