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Factory Sea Cock?
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:33 pm
- Home Port: St. Petersburg Municipal Marina, St. Pete Fla.
- Location: Tampa Florida
Factory Sea Cock?
Does anyone know if these are the originals?
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RNummi
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
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- Home Port: Waretown nj
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
I donno for sure but I think the one with the yellow habdle would be. The other two look like marelon or plastic which would mean at least to me they are not factory
1989 Viking 45C “Knot Crazy”
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
Native watercraft prostaff
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
Native watercraft prostaff
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:33 pm
- Home Port: St. Petersburg Municipal Marina, St. Pete Fla.
- Location: Tampa Florida
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
Marek on I can live with. Plastic not so much. Anybody recognize these and care to opine?
RNummi
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 1043
- Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2015 11:17 am
- Home Port: Waretown nj
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
Hard to tell in the pics. You have anything closer? More detailed pics or a part number off the throughhull?
1989 Viking 45C “Knot Crazy”
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
Native watercraft prostaff
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
Native watercraft prostaff
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:05 am
- Home Port: Long Cove Marina, Chester River Maryland
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
I have the same ones in my boat. Mine are hopefully all marelon. Are you taking out the thruhalls? If you do cut out the coring a half inch back and fill it with thickened epoxy to seal it up. Now you are where I m at. I guess I have to get up off the couch and get to work.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:33 pm
- Home Port: St. Petersburg Municipal Marina, St. Pete Fla.
- Location: Tampa Florida
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
Not to show my ignorance but...would you just go ahead and replace them....
RNummi
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:33 pm
- Home Port: St. Petersburg Municipal Marina, St. Pete Fla.
- Location: Tampa Florida
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
Feel free to opine on the hoses too...do it they "look" alright? I'm bumping into a lot of automotive hoses which would be right as its a Peugeot.
RNummi
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 619
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- Home Port: Biloxi MS
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
The large one looks like mine - Marelon I think. The yellow handled one is not original, nor is it even a seacock. It's a Chinese made brass ball valve which is probably screwed onto a bronze thru-hull. Bronze and brass don't mix and the poor quality brass could be eaten away and sink your boat - I would definitely replace that one
On my A27, both seacocks are Marelon and they have about a one foot piece of Shields wire reinforced hose (the black kind which is very hard to bend) which leads directly to a bronze water strainer mounted on the adjacent bulkhead. Double 100% stainless clamps on both ends of the hose, of course. Double clamps on every hose which could sink your boat
Speaking of things which could sink your boat - Mine had a plastic 90 degree 1 1/8th thru-hull on the port side just above the waterline for the main 2000 bilge pump discharge. The hole in the boat is too close to the chine and there wasn't enough threads on the thru-hull to allow use of a wood backing plate which would have allowed the nut to clear the chine. The bottom of the large nut rested on the chine inside the boat which prevented it from laying flat against the inside of the hull. When over tightened as it was, the nut put all the pressure on the bottom half of the head of the thru-hull which cracked it about 2/3rds of the way around - Only the top 1/3rd of the plastic mhead was intact. Showed up only from outside as a black line on the white thru-hull just inside of the head. I have no idea how long it has been this way, but if the head ever broke completely off (and it was really easy to break - I did so with a small screwdriver to remove it) the thru-hull could have fallen inside the boat, leaving about a 1 1/2 hole at the waterline where the bilge pump used to discharge. If we hadn't been on the yard painting at the waterline, I *never* would have noticed it. As (bad) luck would have it, that odd-ball 1 1/8th 90 degree thru-hull is the only one left on the boat which I had not replaced
*Any* old boat can have so many unsafe items installed by previous owners. A good going through by a competent surveyor would certainly be worth the cost, though I really doubt 90% of surveyors out there would have caught this cracked thru-hull
Make it a point to carefully inspect every hole in your boat whenever you have it out of the water - *Especially* any hole which has any sort of plastic fitting installed
Don
On my A27, both seacocks are Marelon and they have about a one foot piece of Shields wire reinforced hose (the black kind which is very hard to bend) which leads directly to a bronze water strainer mounted on the adjacent bulkhead. Double 100% stainless clamps on both ends of the hose, of course. Double clamps on every hose which could sink your boat
Speaking of things which could sink your boat - Mine had a plastic 90 degree 1 1/8th thru-hull on the port side just above the waterline for the main 2000 bilge pump discharge. The hole in the boat is too close to the chine and there wasn't enough threads on the thru-hull to allow use of a wood backing plate which would have allowed the nut to clear the chine. The bottom of the large nut rested on the chine inside the boat which prevented it from laying flat against the inside of the hull. When over tightened as it was, the nut put all the pressure on the bottom half of the head of the thru-hull which cracked it about 2/3rds of the way around - Only the top 1/3rd of the plastic mhead was intact. Showed up only from outside as a black line on the white thru-hull just inside of the head. I have no idea how long it has been this way, but if the head ever broke completely off (and it was really easy to break - I did so with a small screwdriver to remove it) the thru-hull could have fallen inside the boat, leaving about a 1 1/2 hole at the waterline where the bilge pump used to discharge. If we hadn't been on the yard painting at the waterline, I *never* would have noticed it. As (bad) luck would have it, that odd-ball 1 1/8th 90 degree thru-hull is the only one left on the boat which I had not replaced
*Any* old boat can have so many unsafe items installed by previous owners. A good going through by a competent surveyor would certainly be worth the cost, though I really doubt 90% of surveyors out there would have caught this cracked thru-hull
Make it a point to carefully inspect every hole in your boat whenever you have it out of the water - *Especially* any hole which has any sort of plastic fitting installed
Don
1984 A27 FC #116 'Beta Carina'
Yanmar Turbo Intercooled 100 HP
Homeport Biloxi Back Bay
Yanmar Turbo Intercooled 100 HP
Homeport Biloxi Back Bay
- RobS
- Gold Member
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- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
Yes you need to be mindfull of bronze vs brass, especially yellow brass. And NPT vs NPS threads too.
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:33 pm
- Home Port: St. Petersburg Municipal Marina, St. Pete Fla.
- Location: Tampa Florida
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
Thanks guys, I think I'll take a crack at replacing. Here's the other side of the hull where they come out:
4 through hulls within 12 inches....
4 through hulls within 12 inches....
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RNummi
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:05 am
- Home Port: Long Cove Marina, Chester River Maryland
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
I was talking about the hull it is cored there. When you take out the thruhalls. Grind the coring out and fill with epoxy. Replace all the hoses it is cheap insurance.
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- Gold Member
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- Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2015 11:17 am
- Home Port: Waretown nj
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
Yea if you have to ask "should I replace the hoses" the answer is allways YES!
1989 Viking 45C “Knot Crazy”
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
Native watercraft prostaff
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
Native watercraft prostaff
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:33 pm
- Home Port: St. Petersburg Municipal Marina, St. Pete Fla.
- Location: Tampa Florida
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
Any particular reason the exterior through hulls are all different? The upside down spaghetti strainer is interesting...
RNummi
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
84 A27FC Lehman 4D61
Hull #84 April 1984
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 619
- Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 1:44 pm
- Home Port: Biloxi MS
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
A better question is . . . . why are there 4 of themrnummi wrote:Any particular reason the exterior through hulls are all different? The upside down spaghetti strainer is interesting...
The 'spaghetti strainer' one is the factory engine cooling thru hull. The other large round one is also factory - Both of those are in the same exact place as the ones on my '84. I have no idea what the other two are for
Don
1984 A27 FC #116 'Beta Carina'
Yanmar Turbo Intercooled 100 HP
Homeport Biloxi Back Bay
Yanmar Turbo Intercooled 100 HP
Homeport Biloxi Back Bay
- tego
- Gold Member
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- Home Port: Cherokee Resort and Marina - Tellico River near Vonore, TN
- Location: Maryville, TN
Re: Factory Sea Cock?
Rick, I don't see any backing plates/boards on any of those thru-hulls. When they mounted them they may have compressed the hull sandwich. I'd pull them all and remount them properly.The Marelon units are great, and are used on many high-end vessels. If you're going to replace any, I'd go with Marelon. They're a little less expensive and are not subject to corrosion. All hoses connected to a thru-hull should be the "Shield" USCG type hose. Automotive hoses are fine on the engine, but never on a thru-hull. Ben