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Yanmar Approved Seawater Flush
Moderator: Jeremyvmd
- chiefrcd
- Gold Member
- Posts: 541
- Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:29 am
- Home Port: Deltaville, VA
- Location: Deltaville Virginia
- Contact:
Yanmar Approved Seawater Flush
Apparently after extensive testing Yanmar now sells a sea water side flush for Yanmar engines. This could prove very beneficial for those of us who have Yanmar engines. The product information I received from Mack Boring is as follows:
Name: Ryd-Lyme http://www.rydlyme.com/
Number: 010-MACK1093
I have not used this product, however I have spent about 2300.00 to have some of my cooling componants cleaned out, I have ordered two gallons and will use this within a few weeks.
Wanted to pass on the info.
Name: Ryd-Lyme http://www.rydlyme.com/
Number: 010-MACK1093
I have not used this product, however I have spent about 2300.00 to have some of my cooling componants cleaned out, I have ordered two gallons and will use this within a few weeks.
Wanted to pass on the info.
Last edited by chiefrcd on Fri Jun 15, 2007 1:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Albin 28TE "Southwind"
- Elizabeth Ann
- Gold Member
- Posts: 423
- Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 5:17 pm
- Location: Babylon, NY / Miami, FL
- chiefrcd
- Gold Member
- Posts: 541
- Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:29 am
- Home Port: Deltaville, VA
- Location: Deltaville Virginia
- Contact:
From what I gather you pour it into the seacock strainer using the appropriate safety gear ( it is hydrocloric acid and buffers). Then you let it set in the engine a specific amount of time. Since I don't have it, I don't have the instructions that go with it. It's less than 25.00 a gal. and my local Yanmar Service Center recommended 2 gals. to flush my system. From what I gather from the website, it will not damage the engine and cooling system componants but it will pit the pencil zincs which may need to be replaced. All in all if it works and I('m sure that is a big if, even if you paid your Yanmar Center to do the work it would be a heck of a lot cheaper than removing the coolers and having them cleaned, painted and put back on.
Albin 28TE "Southwind"
- Pitou
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2091
- Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:34 pm
- Home Port: Gloucester, MA
- Location: Essex, MA
Sounds like some great stuff. I cruised their website and I think I am ready to drink the "purple juice". The testamonials appear pretty convincing.
Currently once a month and after haul out at seasons end I run SALT AWAY through the sea water side of my engine for preventative mainteance. SALT AWAY was recomended by Power Boat Reports, but i do not believe they tested RYDLYME. The process looks more complicated, but appears an annual PM would be sufficient. Here is the URL to their instructions to clean the sea water side. Thanks Chief !
http://www.rydlymemarine.com/pdfs/MARIN ... 20RAW.pdf
Currently once a month and after haul out at seasons end I run SALT AWAY through the sea water side of my engine for preventative mainteance. SALT AWAY was recomended by Power Boat Reports, but i do not believe they tested RYDLYME. The process looks more complicated, but appears an annual PM would be sufficient. Here is the URL to their instructions to clean the sea water side. Thanks Chief !
http://www.rydlymemarine.com/pdfs/MARIN ... 20RAW.pdf
kevinS
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
Called me
I filled out the "Contact Us" form on their web site. Lisa called me back, 4 TIMES! (She has a sweat voice!) I have the info packet in PDF. You can rinse your system, but have to hook up some plumbing to reuse the stuff over and over. It's best to hook up a pump rather then trying to run the engine. OR, you can remove the heat exchanger and soak it in a 50/50 mix. At $23.95 a gal it sure beats sending the exchanger to Mack-Boring to boil it out!
-
- First Mate
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 7:04 pm
- Location: Mason Neck, VA
Did this last year and results were awesome. Much easier than pulling the heat-x & sending to the radiator shop. Be aware that rydlyme makes a "marine" formulation that is supposedly kinder to marine metals. At a few bucks more, why take the chance. The rydlyme is something organic (citric acid?) - other than muriatic acid that can be dangerous & damaging.
Here is the setup I rigged:
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w35/ ... 0317-1.jpg
used my spare 12V fresh water pump plumbed into the marine gear cooler then out throught the engine heat exchanger at the exhaust elbow outlet. Hardest part was finding all the plumbing fittings to get a good seal on all the hoses. 1 gallon did fine for a Cummins 6B. Let it cycle through for about 2 hrs like the instructions said. Result was like-new raw water side.
Search for rydlyme (or however you spell it) on boatdiesel.com for much more info.
PS: Forgot to say: remove all your zincs before you do this!!
Here is the setup I rigged:
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w35/ ... 0317-1.jpg
used my spare 12V fresh water pump plumbed into the marine gear cooler then out throught the engine heat exchanger at the exhaust elbow outlet. Hardest part was finding all the plumbing fittings to get a good seal on all the hoses. 1 gallon did fine for a Cummins 6B. Let it cycle through for about 2 hrs like the instructions said. Result was like-new raw water side.
Search for rydlyme (or however you spell it) on boatdiesel.com for much more info.
PS: Forgot to say: remove all your zincs before you do this!!