Planning for 2016 - Vancouver Island Inside Passage

[djpeewee]

Now that summer is over and the weather is getting nasty here, we are thinking of plans for 2016. Since we bought our 28TE in 2014, we have wanted to do some extended cruising. We have done many 3 - 4 day trips, and a couple of full week trips. They have all been in the San Juans and to Seattle/Lake Washington - fun but familiar. This coming summer we would like a little more excitement and to go further. We are planning a trip up the inside passage to the northern tip of Vancouver Island the last week of June/ first week of July.

I know some of the members here have done this trip so I wanted to post my ideas to see if they are feasible. I really liked Joreyn's photos and comments on their trip in 2015. Very inspiring!

I am often over eager and like to be moving all the time. This usually means cruising all day and little time at the destination. So for the enjoyment of my wife, I would like to take it slow and not plan on covering much distance per day. I'd like to keep it under 50 NM per day so we have time to look around and aren't rushed. This also allows time to set the hook for lunch or wander up a channel to check out the scenery; to not be rushed.

So with that said, here are my initial thoughts:

Day 1 - Port Angeles to Poets Cove (- 48.747223°,-123.228148°) - 41NM
Day 2 - Poets Cove to Union Steamship Marina (49.379010°,-123.331438°) - 45NM
Day 3 - Union Steamship Marina to Pender Harbor (49.633691°,-124.043625°) - 42NM
Day 4 - Pender Harbor to Refuge Cove (50.123761°,-124.839442°) - 48NM
Day 5 - Refuge Cove to Blind Channel Resort (50.414116°,-125.501873°) - 38NM
Day 6 - Blind Channel Resort to Lagoon Cove (50.598537°,-126.313776°) - 48NM
Day 7 - Lagoon Cove to Sullivan Bay (50.884763°, -126.826889°) - 43NM
Day 8 - Sullivan Bay to Port Hardy (50.712884°,-127.489900°) - 30NM
Day 9 - Port Hardy to Port McNeill (50.591516°,-127.088442°) - 26NM
Day 10 - Port McNeill to Kelsey Bay (50.396014°,-125.960186°) - 54NM
Day 11 - Kelsey Bay to Heriot Bay (50.102773°,-125.211625°) - 52NM
Day 12 - Heriot Bay to French Creek Marina (49.348834°,-124.358042°) - 68NM
Day 13 - French Creek Marina to Telegraph Harbor (48.982407°,-123.670401°) - 52NM
Day 14 - Telegraph Harbor to Port Angeles - 75NM

Total = 662NM and about 50 hours running time.

My main concern is the time spent in the Strait of Georgia and the wind/weather we can expect. A good part of the way home (south) will involve being in the Strait. We are used to bad, windy, wavy conditions in our home waters. Also, some of the routes I am looking at appear to be through fairly restricted passages. The transit would need to be planned with the tides I am guessing. I have the Waggoner's guide as well as the some of the Dreamspeaker guides and will be researching what I can.

Any comments, suggestions, or wisdom to share would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Damon.

[DesertAlbin736]

We hope to be up in that same area next summer as we were in 2014, maybe with a little flotilla of a two or three sailboats, but probably put in at Bellingham. We're a 6 knot boat, and our saiboater friends are more like 5 knot boats, so we wouldn't be able to cover those kinds of distances in a day. More like 20 or 30NM at best. But we have lots of time. Last time we cruised for 6 weeks and likely do the same next year. Also wouldn't mind catching an Albineers of BC rendezvous. They haven't published their 2016 schedule yet, and they're mostly A25's and A27s.

Keep us posted on your plans.

[joreyn]

My reccomendation is the spend more time in Desolation Sound and in the Broughtons. Each is worth of 4 to five days. Port Hardy and Port mcNeil are not that interesting, except for provisioning.

In Desolation I can reccomend, in addition to Heriot Bay and Refuge Cove:
1. Gorge Harbor - outstanding
2. Pendrell Sound - warm water, nice anchoring
3. Prideaux Haven - spectacular scenery
4. Rosco Bay - but check the tides. You can get out until mid-high water.

In the Broughtons I recommend, in addition to Lagoon Cove and Sullivan Bay:
1. Echo Bay - The pig Roast is so much fun and Echo Bay Eco-Tours is a blast
2. Viner Sound - anchor or grab a buoy
3. Waddington Sound - Very nice anchorage
4. Kwatsi Bay - spectacular setting and while cruising up there you are likely to see the dolphins. Very hospitable.
5. Little Nimmo - either anchor out in the middle or tie up at the lodge and have a fantastice four course meal with them.

I don't know about Kelsey Bay. I do know that the winds get fierce in that vicinity, so I try to avoid going that way.

I've never succeeded in getting a berth in French Creek. If that doesn't pan out, try anchoring in Hornby Island (not in South winds) or go to Schooner Cove.

If you just have two week to work with, I would go to Princess Louisa after Pender, then to desolation, making my last stop at Heriot, and then complete your itinerary.

Send me a PM with your email and I'll try to send you a powerpoint of our trips up there. File Might be too big, but maybe I can figure out a way around that.

[djpeewee]

Thanks Joreyn... that's why I asked - I appreciate your input and will research your recommendations. I will PM my email.

We were interested in going as far north to Port Hardy just to say we made it all the way up there. But after researching further, and getting advice from people such as you, who have done the trip, we think the time would be better spent on the main land side. We have plenty of run down logging towns around here. No need to go all the way up there to see two more.

[joreyn]

And,if you go to Nimmo Bay, you will actually be North of the tip of Vancouver Island.

[djpeewee]

That's interesting. There's now a reason to go to Nimmo Bay. What's also interesting is that the maximum extent of my insurance coverage is north to the 51st parallel. North of that and I have no coverage. Nimmo Bay is just over 4NM south of this line by my calculations so I think we are good!

[joreyn]

You can get your insurer to extend your navigation limit. They'll usually do it for no charge, as long as you let them know. I think you will actually be slightly above 51degrees on your way in there. My policy allows me to go beyond for short times when necessary to reach a destination below the line.

[DesertAlbin736]

Blue Moon: I remember you guys from the 2014 Pacific NW rendezous in Roche Harbor. You were docked next to Reel Flyer and Blue Heron. We were one of the two Albin 25's there, "La Dolce Vita", the other being "Transition" from Canada.

The only picture I have of your boat is this one where it's at far right almost out of the frame, but you can still see the name.

We really do want to make it up to Desolation next year. In 2014 we only made it as far North as Ladysmith, mostly because we were following along with my wife's sister and her husband from Oregon letting them set the itinerary and they had a gas guzzling Bayliner & limited amount of time. Would have gone back there this year but the Erie Canal, Rhode Island, and Chesapeake Bay thing came up instead, and we couldn't resist a free week at a Rhode Island beach house with our sailing friends. But of all our cruises, including sailing a Catalina 25 sailboat up the SoCal coast from San Diego to San Pedro (L.A. harbor) and over to Catalina Island, the Salish Sea is by far our favorite.

[Tobermory]

First let me say that this is the second draft of this reply. I don't know where the first went - it disappeared before I finished it so if it ends up posted I apologize for the duplication.
The Broughtons are a great destination. It is my favourite cruising destination on this coast. I have made the trip up there many times, the last few on my 28TE. It is a great boat for this trip. Some general comments about your itinerary: First, the Broughtons are a bit cooler than Desolation Sound, especially the water, so bring warm clothes. The change occurs when you go through the rapids and are in cooler water that gets more mixing than in Desolation Sound. It will become cooler as you go closer to the north end of Vancouver Island and get more ocean influence. The benefit is less yacht traffic, great scenery and much more wildlife sightings. Orcas, humpbacks, dolphins, bears, eagles, etc., etc. Lots of it. Note that the currents north of Campbell River run in opposite directions from those in the southern Georgia Strait. The ebb runs north and the flood runs south. All of the marinas use 66A. That may be apparent to you but I still hear people calling them on Ch 16. They usually don't monitor that channel. Although you may intend to take the trip at a slow pace I would be prepared to use the speed of the 28TE at times to get through the tidal passages (or "rapids" as they are referred to locally). In a boat like the 28TE it is not necessary to wait for slack tide. I have been through all of them at full tide, both with and opposed to the current and the 28TE can easily handle them. A bit of rock and roll for sure but part of the excitement of this area. They are all of relatively short duration so the increased speed is not for long. As some of the other posts have stated, there are lots of other anchorages and marinas. The Dreamspeaker series of guide books is the best source of information I have discovered on local features. There are two basic routes you can take to get to the Broughtons (and back). The shortest is via Johnston Strait. You would head north from Campbell River and go through Seymour Narrows. This is the route the Alaska cruise ships take. If you prefer to travel slowly and want to get maximum current benefit then leave Campbell River about a half hour before the change to the ebb at Seymour Narrows and you will have current benefit all of the way up. However, if there is a strong westerly regime then Johnston Strait can be very uncomfortable and is not recommended, especially in the southern (it is actually the eastern) section. The other route is through the various channels and rapids starting in the area of Refuge Cove. This is referred to as the "northern route" (you actually are heading west not north when you go to the Broughtons so this route is in fact to the north of Johnston Strait). It is largely protected from the weather of Johnston Strait until the last 15 miles before Havanna Channel where you can leave Johnston Strait to head for Lagoon Cove. Often the best route up or down is a combination of the two.
Some specific comments: Day 2: this is the day you will cross the Strait of Georgia. The shortest crossing going north is from the Silva Bay area to Howe Sound. Stay in the Gulf Islands until you have gone through Gabriola Pass (also an easy pass to transit at full current) and leave from the Silva Bay area (near the SE corner of Gabriola Island). If it is blowing from the west with any strength you will want to head towards the eastern entrance to Howe Sound, more or less towards Pt. Atkinson. That is a fairly happy angle for a 28TE with the wind on your quarter but still a fair amount of spray. If it is blowing from the SE then head for the western entrance to Howe Sound. You could stop at Gibsons, a delightful little community (where the Beachcomber TV series was filmed) and where there is fuel, good restaurants, etc. Also, it shortens the next day's trip in Georgia Strait. It is closer to Welcome Passage.
Day 3: Again you are in Georgia Strait for the first bit. If it is a SE wind then it will be a following sea and little problem. If it is a westerly then you are heading into it and it can be a bit lumpy,especially if the wind is blowing against a flood tide. I would stay offshore at least a mile - it tends to be a bit lumpier close to shore and I have found the 28TE can handle this well at reduced speed. Usually I cruise at 18k but have slowed to about 12k for this leg in a strong westerly. At that speed it is less than 2 hours to Welcome Passage. From Welcome Passage to Pender Harbour is about 10 miles and you can still get some chop in Malaspina Strait but usually not as bad.
Day 4: This is usually a pleasant passage but you can get some chop on the first part. It generally gets easier as you go farther north here and by the time you reach Powell River you should be in relatively tame water.
Day 5: This will be the day you go through the rapids for the first time but Blind Channel is a nice stop. Fuel, small grocery/liquor store and a wonderful restaurant.
Day 6: A key decision day. You have the option of continuing on the northern route and going through Green Point and Wellborne rapids and into Johnston Strait or going directly into Johnston Strait from Blind Channel. You will want to check the weather for Johnston Strait to see if that is advisable. Listen for the weather at Fanny Island for an indicator of what Johnston Strait is doing. Often it is calmer in the early morning when the westerlies are blowing and you can drop into the Strait and get to Havanna Channel before it becomes uncomfortable. Again, a spot you may wish to use some speed.
Day 8: If it was me I would skip Port Hardy. Not much to see and the marina is a fair ways from shopping. Better to provision in Port McNeil. If you wanted to spend a night at the top of Vancouver Island you could anchor at Bull Harbour at the north end of Goletas Channel. That would also give you the option of going across the Nahwitti Bar and into the open Pacific for a bit of a look before heading back down Goletas Channel towards Port McNeil.
Day 9: Port McNeil is very user friendly for yachts. Good stores within walking distance. Also, if you have time you can walk on the BC ferry and go to Alert Bay (a great first nations cultural centre) and/or Sointula on Malcolm Island (a Finnish settlement from the early 1900's). Makes an interesting day's excursion.
Day 10: I would definitely skip Kelsey Bay. Small, crowded marina, usually quite lumpy at best, and nothing to see or do there. Bit of a walk to any stores or settlement. if you want a stop in this area go back to Blind Channel and enjoy another dinner.
Day 11: Another decision day. From Blind Channel you can proceed back the northern route to Heriot Bay or go down Johnston Strait and then cut across the north side of Quadra Island. That will entail going through Okisollo Channel and Surge Narrows or Hole in the Wall. All tidal rapids but, again doable. Heriot Bay is a neat spot with fuel, good grocery/liquor store within walking distance and the hotel with a good restaurant.
Day 12: I have only been in French Creek once and it was crowded. You may also want to consider Comox Harbour (nice marina, fuel, provisions, restaurants, walking areas, etc.) or Nanaimo as stops. Nanaimo is a larger city but has an interesting harbour area for small boats and a nice waterfront walkway and park area. You can call Nanaimo Harbour Authority or Cameron Island Harbour master for reservations. At that time of year I would call for reservations (by phone the day before if possible) at both Comox and Nanaimo. From Nanaimo it is an easy hop through Dodds Narrows to the Gulf Islands. Leaving Heriot Bay to head south would be ok in a westerly which would be a following wind but a bit more of a challenge in a SE wind. You can stay close to Vancouver Island and cut inside Denman Island, Ballenas Is and the Winchelsea Is to avoid the worst of it. In mid July you have less chance of a strong SE wind. They are more associated with the fronts of fall and winter. Also, pay attention to the military weapons range called Whiskey Golf (WG on some charts). It is often closed to transit during week days. I can tell you from experience that they get excited if you try to cross it when it is closed. You can listen to the weather forecast channels to find out if it is open for transit. If it is closed you can go by it by staying close to Vancouver Is. rather than going out into Georgia Strait.
Good luck with the trip. You won't see it all in one trip and I am sure you will want to return. I haven't decided where I am going this year but it may be the Broughtons so if you see another dark blue 28TE it may be me.

[joreyn]

Good post. I agree with most of your observations but would not advise taking Dent/Yaculta Rapids at full flow if it's the first time. It's really not necessary if you time things right. The locals do it with light planing boats,and they know the water intimately.

We'll be up there next summer after the PNW Rendezvous. Consider joining us at the rendezvous in Laconner.

[djpeewee]

Wow! Thanks for the fantastic responses. This is invaluable insight that does not exist in the Dreamspeaker guides. Tobermory, I appreciate you putting this post together... twice. You and Joreyn should write your own Broughtons travel guide.

Lots of research to do. Over the weekend I was able to get the last two Dreamspeaker guides to the area and will be reading them cover to cover. It is nice to hear feedback from someone who has traveled the area in a comparable boat, as most of the reading material is written from the perspective of a 6 knot sailboat.

We look forward to making the trip and may see one of you up there.

Lots of questions to come I'm sure...

[DesertAlbin736]

Tobermory:

...if you see another dark blue 28TE it may be me.

If you see an Albin 25 carrying a lapstrake hard shell dinghy stowed on snap davits that could be us.

I will definitely save your comments and take them to heart and check out the Dreamspeaker guides. We have no choice but to make a trip like that at a slow pace as our cruising speed is 6.5 kts at 2,350 RPM on our 24 HP Yanmar. But we are not pressed for time nor need to be on a tight schedule because we'll be cruising for at least a month. Last time we were in the San Juans and Gulf Islands we spent 40 days afloat. The more local knowledge we can get the better. Of course with our displacement hull speed and packing only 24 ponies we need to run narrow tidal passages as close to slack as possible. We have the perrenial Canadian Current Atlas for Juan de Fuca to Strait of Georgia but that only covers as far North as the entrance to Howe Sound, so we'll have to get the one for points North, and of course the corresponding 2016 tables.

[Mike Ebert]

There is a pretty detailed article about the trip you are planning in this month's Sea Magazine.

[DesertAlbin736]

Tobermory: By the way, do you happen to know the going fuel dock rate for diesel in your area in $CN these days? The current lowest gas station price for #2 diesel here in Arizona is $2.19 US per US gallon. That would translate to 77 cents Canadian per litre at the current US-CN exchange rate.

[Tobermory]

Desert Albin,
I haven't looked recently but diesel is usually in the range of $1.25 to $1.40 per litre. It can sometimes be even a bit higher up in the Broughtons.
You will need two tide books. The most commonly used ones are published by the federal government. One volume will cover the area from the border to about Campbell River (about half way up Vancouver Island) and the next will cover north of that and the West Coast of Vancouver Island. It would be a matter of personal preference but I don't use a current atlas. The currents are usually intuitive in this area and the tide books also have current tables for all of the passes together with direction of flow.