28te Windlass

[Pete]

I can't find the factory wiring for the windlass so far, but, I'm wondering which windlass to add?It seems most people are happy with the 24# plow anchors, 30 ft of chain seems reasonable to fit in locker, verticele or horizontal windlass is the big question?The Admiral suggests we get foot switches so she can assist from the bow but not have to bust her back yanking up a mud covered anchor,Tell me what system you added to your 28te,

[catalina_mike]

Mine has a Lewmar without foot switches but does have a wireless remote. We have 40' of chain along with 300' of rode. There was not a separate wire ran for the windless and the breaker was installed off of the thruster power. They removed the main cleat for the install and I might add one back in for redundancy. I used the system this weekend for the first time and it worked ok except for a small issue with the windless clutch for the rope opening too far.

[Pitou]

Your LOA is the minimum that should be used for the chain portion of your rode. 30 to 35 ft. is right for the 28. More is always better. the 22# Delta fast set plow from Lewmar works well on the 28.

My '02 28 came through from the factory with an Imtra Dorado windlass, foot switches and the Lewmar 22# Delta Plow. I couldn't wait to replace the windlass as the gypsy never grabbed the rope portion of the rode with any grip. I had even replaced the pressure finger and spring assembly as recommended by Imtra .. no change. I then replaced the windlass with a Horizon 500 with 100 ft. of chain and 175 ft. of 8 strand plait. Worked like a dream.

On the 31 I have a factory installed Lewmar Pro-fish 1000 with foot switches, the Lewmar 35# fast set Delta and I installed a new rode of 125 ft. of chain and 200 ft. of 8 strand plait. Works like a dream.

If you are going through the install I highly recommend foot switches or a remote. This will be helpful for anyone on the bow who is assisting. My routine is someone on the bow to direct the wheel man towards the anchor and the bow man retrieving. This works well as the person at the helm can't really see the anchor and its direction. Never let the windlass pull the boat to the anchor, let the engine do the heavy work. You will get a much longer life from your windlass doing it this way. Also, remember to cleat your rode off and not let the rode ride on your gypsy .. same thing longer life and no slippage.

[Chris & Dale]

Pete,
Here's a link to a post I did some time back for wiring and installing our Lewmar Windlass. I've used it a number of times for fishing and everything worked fine (except for an Operator error one time-me). I'd say the only thing I did wrong was not ordering my new anchor line w/enough chain, even though it's held fine while fishing, I'm going to extend it to 25-30' for anchoring overnight. Anyway, my post may help a little. Good Luck!

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5633

[RobS]

...I'm going to extend it to 25-30' for anchoring overnight..[/url]

Can you extend windlass anchor chain ?

[djpeewee]

We anchor overnight on occasion. We have the Dorado (700 watt motor version) w/ foot switches. The 700w motor is OK, but would prefer 1000w due to the heavy rode. We had 30' of 1/4" G4 chain and 300' of 1/2" 3 strand twist with the Delta 22lb anchor. The windlass did slip with the 3 strand rope and definitely had problems with the rope/chain splice. We changed out the gypsy on the windlass to a 5/16" one and upgraded to 50' of 5/16" G4 chain with 600' of 1/2" Yale Cordage 8 plait. Not that we will ever use 600' of rope, but the price was right for buying the whole spool. All 600' fits well in the locker because of the supple lay of the rope. The grip of the windlass on the rope is way better now and the rope/chain splice easily goes through the windlass - probably because of the bigger chain wheel on the gypsy. We also switched to a 27lb Rocna Vulcan anchor. Haven't had a lot of time with the Rocna, but so far so good. It fits well on the bow roller.

I don't know if anyone has done much work on the windlass on the 28TE, but it is a pain in the butt - unless I am doing something wrong. Very difficult to access, and there is an odd pocket between the deck and the inside of the locker - sort of a hollow space. I suspect it is for reinforcement of the windlass. Because of this pocket, the windlass is very difficult to reinstall after removing. I have a chain stopper I need to install between the windlass and the anchor, but haven't come up with a reasonable solution because of this pocket. I am open to any ideas.

[RobS]

..I don't know if anyone has done much work on the windlass on the 28TE, but it is a pain in the butt - unless I am doing something wrong...

Nope, it is, big time.

I have a chain stopper I need to install between the windlass and the anchor, but haven't come up with a reasonable solution because of this pocket. I am open to any ideas.

This worked well for me. Chain stopper blocked up on 2 pcs of starboard. The bottom pc I made a little narrower so the fiberglass channel in the pulpit wasn't blocked of flow. just position the stopper fwd/back and at a height where the pin lines up with the hole in the anchor shank.

[djpeewee]

Thanks Rob. That looks great! I was thinking along the same lines. Starboard is a wonderful thing. I do have a different chain stopper though, which will have to be mounted a little further aft than yours. It doesn't have pin but rather a "gate" for lack of better words:

chain stop.jpg

Did you remove the Starboard plate on the bottom of the pulpit to get access to and install the hardware for the chain stop?

Also, any reason why you don't have a couple of links of chain between the anchor shank and the swivel? It's good for protecting the swivel by ensuring you are not pulling sideways on it.

[rcwhite]

...I'm going to extend it to 25-30' for anchoring overnight..[/url]

Can you extend windlass anchor chain ?

There are specific connecting links for "extending" chains when using a windlass. They typically
aren't as strong as the chain itself though.

[RobS]

DJ,
Yes starboard is great unless you're trying to get a good bond with adhesive caulking, do-able but not ideal.
I did drop the bottom panel for thru-bolting the chain stop but there really is minimal load on it, lags with properly sized holes would be fine, it's thick solid glass up there.
As far as the swivel direct on the anchor shank - I agree you're method would be ideal but the standard style properly sized shackle and the undersized bow roller did not agree with each other so it was a smooth way to connect to the anchor and have it pass over the roller nicely. So I went with an oversized swivel.

RC,
I never knew they existed as I never even looked into extensions for windlass chains as yes, it would clearly be the "weak link."

[Pitou]

I don't know if anyone has done much work on the windlass on the 28TE, but it is a pain in the butt -

As said .. agreed working on the windlass R&R on the TE with the hollow space. I've shared in your frustration, but got it done.

I have a chain stopper I need to install between the windlass and the anchor, but haven't come up with a reasonable solution because of this pocket. I am open to any ideas.

I've always gone with low tech simplicity using a length of line tied to the stanchon next to the windlass with a simple clip spliced to the bitter end for securing to a link of chain.

[djpeewee]

Kevin, that is a simple solution. Simplicity most often works the best.

Rob, I had the same problem with the narrow bow roller originally. I found this allen head D shackle:

Swivel1.jpg

Swivel2.jpg

Fits through the bow roller nicely now.

[Pitou]

I just came across this picture of my "chain stopper" on my 28 TE.

Click to enlarge ...

Chain Stopper.png

[djpeewee]

Nice! Easy to find spares too!

[Pete]

Thanks all,, found the factory wiring!! At least the end of them up in anchor locker, no sign of them near helm above water etc, I'll keep looking,any thoughts?