Rudder packing 27FC

[JeffScott92]

I am getting some standing water in the compartment where the rudder is. Can the packing be replaced while in the water? Any special tools?

[eseyoung]

I did mine on the hard (trailer). I had a awful time getting the tiller arm off the shaft, it was stuck corroded on there pretty good. I ended up have to soak it in penetrating oil and letting it set for a few days. i still had to use a slide hammer to coax it off the shaft.

I don't think i would have attempted to do mine in the water...but only because of the tiller issue. if memory serves the key way for the tiller is so close to the nuts that the key and subsequently the tiller had to come off to get enough room to remove and replace the packing.

the good news it you can try to remove the tiller without fully committing to doing the job...if it looks like its going to hang you up abort and have her pulled.

as for special tools....just a wrench big enough for the nuts and a slide hammer to remove the tiller if yours is corroded on.

[JeffScott92]

Rudder packing has turned into a quest. I am having problems getting the tiller arm off the shaft as eseyoung describes. I will try to send a picture later, but I have a particular question. The tiller arm has a bolt on one side to tighten it down and there is some kind of metal "spacer" on the other side. Does it "tap in" or "come out" before you can coax the tiller arm up???

I have added PB blaster to lubricate with no luck so far. Once I figure out the "spacer" issue, plan on using a torch on the metal to help separate it.

[JeffScott92]

27 fc rudder.jpg

Found a picture online. That little silver thingy on the opposite side of the thru bolt. What do I need to do with it?

[tego]

Jeff, That's a keyway. It keeps the arm from turning on the shaft if the keeper bolt should get a little loose. It will not hamper the removal of the tiller arm unless the key has been hit with a screwdriver or the like. Remove the keeper bolt and carefully drive a wedge down the slot that the keeper bolt pinches closed. This should loosen the arm enough to lift it off the shaft. I had no problems with mine when I repacked it this past fall, and yes, I did it in the water. Ben

[tego]

Jeff, I had a couple of thoughts after I signed off last night. You do know that the packing nut can be adjusted? It very seldom has to be repacked with our normal usage. Just turn the packing nut down a turn or two and it should be good for a couple of more years. It's like the stuffing box in construction, but with lots less wear. If you've never repacked one before, I definitely recommend doing it out of the water for the first time. Also check the dose clamps on your cockpit drain hoses at the transom thru-hulls, the bilge pump hose, and the exhaust hose clamps. Those are common places for hard to notice leaks. If you have the common bilge pump hose, make sure it hasn't cracked. If you do repack, when you use a wedge (screwdriver or the like) to open the slot a little, make sure you only widen the slot by .010 or so inches, just enough to allow you to lift the bronze arm off the shaft. That arm would probably be hell to replace. Good luck, Ben

[JeffScott92]

Many Thanks. I had it on the trailer. Ended up using PB Blaster, Heat torch and the slide hammer. Everything is back together, just need to see what it does when we get it wet.

[Mark Deeser]

Jeff, some other spots for water to sneak into that compartment. The side decks do not drain well to the stern, water can get in around rear stantion. If you have snaps for canvas on aft cabin easy to lose one, can create a nice leak. Window on stern can leak, might also look a swim platform screws. Happy hunting.

[eseyoung]

Glad to hear you got the job done.

remember you can make it fairly tight. it isn't like a propeller shaft has to weep...infact it shouldn't leak at all. i had to snug mine down several times before it finally stopped dripping.