Coolant change and flush on 6bta's on the hard

[amber jj]

I am trying to replace my coolant with EC Complete and flush the system with a cleaner like Restore or a similar product on my Cummins 6bta's.To make things a little more difficult the boat is on the hard and I can't run the engines.From what I have been told I am not supposed to contaminate the new coolant with anything else,only maybe a little water.
I know of the pipe plug on the pipe below the heat exchanger but I don't if it alone will drain the block and the turbo's.
Also is there a way to flush the coolant side like when you do the raw water side for the after coolers and heat exchanger with the Redlime product using a submersible pump.
I would like to get this project done before she hits the water.
Thanks for any suggestions Bob

[Robb]

I have drained quite a few times using the heat exchanger drain, catching all the fluid is the real challenge as there is quite a bit and any container that fits there will be small and will not have capacity to catch all the fluid.

I do not understand the appeal of using something like Ridlime. IMO you are MUCH better off just servicing the seawater side, intercooler and heat exchanger by taking them off. This is an easy process and the last time I did, I had them removed, cleaned and reinstalled in about 4 hours. I do this every two years.

Once again Tony at Seaboard is the master for info on the BTA's. Here is a link to his service tip:

http://www.sbmar.com/articles/aftercool ... -_Cummins/

[amber jj]

Thanks Robb.A Cummins truck mechanic told me to use the EC Complete coolant.It is supposed to have a ten year
Life span,but never mix any other product with it.I did have some rusty looking coolant in the coolant puke container.
I do have a new heat exchanger coming this weekend and when I make the change I wanted to start fresh with every thing.I was not using a very good diesel coolant previously.That is why I want to clean the system out and start fresh.

[Pitou]

No more difficult on the hard than in the water. Same process and I've always done it while on the hard.

Draining off of the pitcock by the heat exchanger will get most of the coolant, but not all. Be sure to disconnect the two lines going to and coming from the hot water tank from the engine as well as from the hot water tank. Be sure that the hoses are thoroughly drained including the small loop in the hot water tank. An air hose will help to drain this loop. You do not want this coolant to re-circulate back through the system after all of your hard work. Having a second set of hands to pass off your drain containers to in order to dump them into a 5 gallon pail is imperative. After the initial draining I always fill with a hose to flush and drain and then do a fill with distilled water for the final drain. This is also a good time to check and replace coolant hoses.

[amber jj]

Thankyou Kevin.Is there any need to remove the thermostat?This may not be as bad a job as I thought other than getting at the cooler on the starboard side.I am always terrified of getting a leg cramp while I am in behind that engine.We have the twins in our 2000 31TE.

[Pitou]

Bob - If the T-stats haven't been changed yet, I would do it as PM and while everything is drained. I changed mine last season on its 8th season and roughly 700 hours. It wasn't in bad shape, but I felt better. I run the extended life coolant as well.

What are you sporting for power .. Cummins 370's?

[amber jj]

Yes Kevin they are 370's.A nice 22-23 knot cruise at 2200

[Pitou]

Yes Kevin they are 370's.A nice 22-23 knot cruise at 2200

That's very nice at only 16 gph combined at that RPM and speed. Not many 31's out there with that configuration of power. I miss the 370 that I had in my 28 as it was REALLY good on fuel and easy to work on.

[amber jj]

Kevin I got busy and thought of an idea of how to drain the coolant single-handedly and here's what I come up with.