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Replacement for 4D61

Albin's "power cruisers"
don123
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by don123 »

djblackwood wrote:In my discussions with the Beta Marine folks at the Toronto Boat Show they recommended the Beta 60, subject of course to whether or not it would fit the space available.
It seems logical to me they would recommend whichever engine in their line-up most closely resembles the size, weight and power output of the engine you are replacing - The Beta 60 seems a natural choice. I think most any modern small 4 cylinder marine diesel will fit the existing space in an early FC without much if any modification
The 60 is a 4-cylinder, 2434 cc, 56 hp max at 2700 rpm. It weighs 287 kg.
That is actually bigger and heavier than my 100 HP Yanmar. My engine is 1995 cc and makes 100 HP @ 3800 RPM and weighs 260 kg. The height is no problem - I have more clearance between the top of the engine and the doors than with the 4D61. I also have a little more room in front of the engine than before. Space on the starboard side is about the same (plenty of room for me to get in between the Yanmar and my Kubota genset for maintenance on both) but the space on the portside is a little tighter

There is a huge selection of 4 cylinder diesels between about 35 hp and 125 hp to choose from. The overall size and weight of them is fairly similar. If the cost is about the same, I don't see any benefit to using a less powerful engine. The later model FC's used 6 cylinder power plants and the engine room configuration is a bit different, due to the length of the engine. The center mounted fuel tank was replaced by twin tanks under the cockpit seats

Don
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JT48348
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by JT48348 »

Ok OK. :shock: We have to get specific here. I've made two calls now to dealers to discuss the idea of a A27 repower, and one thing I've quickly learned is you cannot mash everything together and compare apples to oranges.
I'm thinking the only way to really make a decision is to have solid data and make a true comparison. We can assume that the owner would do the install.

1) What's the goal of the repower? to get the boat up on plane, or to run at hull speed?

2) What's the priority of the cost analysis? In otherwords, is $$$ your first consideration or you're your last?

3) In comparing costs we need to know what is considered an "engine?" Are we counting alternators, heat exhangers, transmissions extra add-ons? Shaft replacement? What are the options included in the pricing, and what are the hidden costs relative to various engines? You can't just say my engine is bigger, weighs less, and costs less, without knowing what that means relative to the big picture. Also, can the engine be installed by the owner or does it need an professional install or once over by a professional in order to validate the warranty? What is the warranty?

Don, tell me about your engine. How do I find a 100hp rebuilt Yanmar for $10k and what does it come with? That sounds like a good price!

3) When discussing weight, what are the options included? Alternators, heat exchangers, transmissions? You cannot compare weights without being specific about what you're weighing.

4) Is there a physical limitation with regard to the space or the existing engine bed for mounting?


My latest inquiry to another different Beta dealer resulted in a quote of $15k for a Beta 60 out the door which they recommended. The reason for the 60 was the dealer logic that the boat was designed for 60hp. They r saying the Beta 38 is for the A25.
don123
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by don123 »

JT48348 wrote:Don, tell me about your engine. How do I find a 100hp rebuilt Yanmar for $10k and what does it come with? That sounds like a good price!
You probably can't unless you get really lucky . . . . but then, I didn't think I could either

First, my engine isn't new - The current version is a 4JH4-HTE which is 110 HP and will set you back at least $17.5K if you're lucky and find a good deal. My engine is the previous version 4JH3-HTE which has been completely rebuilt. Remanufactured head, new pistons, rings, all bearings, new turbocharger, new injector pump, new heat exchanger, new exhaust elbow, new alternator and starter, all new hoses, both water pumps, new motor mounts etc. When I found it, it was the bare engine with no transmission or instrument panel. The Yanmar dealership added on a brand new Hurth ZF-45A hydraulic transmission with oil cooler which they had laying around and when I told him I'd also need an instrument panel to go with it, he went upstairs and 'sourced' me a brand new ($2K list) panel with cable. It's a complete, ready to go package. Add a piece of exhaust hose and a raw water strainer and you're up and running. If that wasn't a good enough deal, the dealership in Louisiana arranged to have it delivered it to my house for free *plus* that got me out of paying Louisiana sales tax on it, so the $10K was the complete, delivered to my door price. I have a 7 page list of all the new parts that went into the engine and the Yanmar list prices on those parts alone is well over the $10K I paid, not to mention the 38 hours of labor (@ $50 per hour) they had in rebuilding it

The 4JH family of engines are all the same engine block and come in 75 to 125 HP versions - I was actually looking for a 4JH3-TE (75 HP) when I found this deal and it was just too good to pass up

All that said, if you have a running 4D61 and you're happy with a 60 HP engine, $5K or less would probably completely rebuild everything and make it a dependable power plant for many years to come. I thought seriously about doing just that, but our goal is to do about 6500 miles on the Great Loop with this boat (leaving this October) and I wanted something easier to find parts for should we have a problem so as to not get stranded somewhere far from home

Don
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by SkipRocks »

Going to muddy up the water a bit.

My 1985 Albin 27 Express was already repowered when I purchased it one year ago. It has a Volvo TAMD31. It's a 4 cylinder, turbo charged 130 HP diesel. I really don't know much about the engine other than it's fairly easy to access and maintain. My marine mechanic colleague says that it's a good motor and the only reason Volvo stopped production was due to enhanced emission requirements. There is one listed now on ebay for $6,750. It is neither new nor rebuilt.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351237232616?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

I do not have a fuel monitor, but do have a fairly good idea of fuel burn - I keep track with my GPS/chart/plotter and have confirmed with distance traveled via chart & my watch. At 7 knots it burns somewhere between 1.2 & 1.5 GPH. My data comes from 18 hours combined travelling at 7 knots that were tallied across 4 separate trips ranging from 3 hours to 6 hours each and I imagine I've had the tides with and against me somewhat equally on those runs. The Albin got 1.2, 1.3-, 1.4- and 1.5 GPH on each leg doing 7 knots.

I have cruised at 10 knots, but do not have any fuel burn data. Yes, it's a bit noisy, but I've run at 10 knots for two hours steady. My only complaint was my wife's complaint that it was too noisy and a bit rough. When she's with me we both love 7 knots.

Full throttle - somewhere around 3500 rpm the Albin will move at a steady 14 knots and has approached 15 knots. I haven't stayed there for longer than a few minutes and really only pushed it to see just how fast the boat will go.

I am bringing the boat about 300 miles next month from Fort Lauderdale to St Augustine FL and hope to learn a bit more about fuel consumption on that run.

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JT48348
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by JT48348 »

Latest update This is what I've learned:

I went back to the original Beta dealer and asked again about the Beta 38 vs the Beta 60.

The bottom line is the decision of which engine has to do with that what you want to accomplish and how you are going to cruise. You have to decide if you want to cruise at hull speed or get the boat up on plane.

If you want to cruise at hull speed and get the best fuel economy for the price, they are recommending the Beta 38 ($11-12k). An alternative would be the Beta 43, which is approximately $700 more than the 38.

If you want to get the boat up on plane then you need at least a Beta 60 ($15k+) or a bigger engine.

No surprise, there is a weight difference as the engine size increases.
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by don123 »

JT48348 wrote:If you want to cruise at hull speed and get the best fuel economy for the price, they are recommending the Beta 38 ($11-12k). An alternative would be the Beta 43, which is approximately $700 more than the 38.
If you're buying new, then 'best economy for the price' will probably be the smaller engine, but there's really not much fuel economy savings to be had by going with the smaller engine if you can get a larger engine cheaper, either used or rebuilt - A well tuned diesel burns about 1 GPH for every 20 HP produced, so if your boat requires 20 HP to achieve hull speed, the fuel burn will be essentially the same 1 gallon whether you have a 50, 75 or 100 HP engine
If you want to get the boat up on plane then you need at least a Beta 60 ($15k+) or a bigger engine.
I don't think you can get an A27 up on plane with 60 HP - The factory 78 HP Nissan doesn't get it on plane
No surprise, there is a weight difference as the engine size increases.
There is quite a difference in weight between the 3 cylinder Beta 38 and most 4 cylinder engines, but once you get up to a 2 liter four cylinder engine (like the 4D61) the weight difference of the various models isn't much of an issue. A naturally aspirated 50 HP four weighs about the same as a 75 HP turbocharged model and a 100 HP turbo intercooled model. My 100 HP Yanmar is actually about 100 pounds lighter than the Beta 60, so more power doesn't always mean more weight
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by JT48348 »

Now, how to get a rebuilt large diesel engine for not very much money....hmmmm......

Don, when's the next time you're going out of town and where will the keys be? :D
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by denchen »

A few years ago I found the cheapest way was to marinize an engine myself. By making sure the engine was a good one, mine was from a low mileage small van that had been in a crash, it was just a matter of bolting the marine bits on. Choose your engine carefully and make sure the numbers add up.
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by don123 »

eBay #261303053433 - Maybe offer him $3500 or $4K and see if that doesn't buy you an engine??

Don
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by Vic K »

OK here comes my monkey wrench in this conversation that I started. Has anyone re-powered with an outboard? How feasible/smart/dumb would it be to throw away all that inboard stuff and bolt something on the back. It would sure take care of the noise issue.

Vic
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by don123 »

It could certainly be done - I think you'd have to add some beef to the inside of the transom to support a properly designed bracket for a 50 to 75 HP outboard. The transom wasn't designed to support that sort of load - It's only about an inch thick and it's foam cored so you would need to cut out the core and make a good sized chunk of it solid to be able to bolt an outboard bracket to it. It wouldn't be a simple project

I built myself a pretty robust swim platform and mounted it with a set of 4 stainless brackets I welded up. Eight 3/8 holes through the transom with 1 1/2 inch laminated and epoxied backing plates on the inside of the boat, but it wouldn't support an outboard bracket large enough to power the boat

Steering and maneuverability would be better I think and it certainly would be quieter as you say. For long range cruising I doubt any outboard could match the fuel economy of the diesel though, but if you don't make long trips fuel costs might not be a big issue

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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by JT48348 »

CaptVic: :wink: This is the question I have been trying to answer. If you search the internet, there are limited discussions of the idea of putting a high thrust outboard on the back of an Albin 25/27. The question is how big an engine, or in reality, how small can you go. I think it would need to be a modern 4 stroke with high thrust and the right propeller. It would need to be steerable, and could be raised. Yes, you would go 5-6 knots. Yes, 5-6 knots is not the same as 7-10knots :P . Yes, it will take longer to get somewhere. :P To be sure, the idea is to get the boat to move at displacement speeds, not up on plane. Of course the fuel efficiency would not be as good as the diesel. But how bad would it really be? My research indicates fuel burn for this engine would be somewhere between .75-1gal of fuel and hour, which I find acceptable.

There is very little anecdotal evidence or reports to go by. Finding someone who has actually run with a "kicker engine" or a even a sole single outboard on an Albin 25/27 is next to impossible. Finding someone who has run with an outboard on a similar size and type boat is only slightly better. I have not found anyone who's done it and learned the hard way. The people who have done it report a compromise, but are satisfied with their decision. Because I have found a few people who did something similar on the same boat or something closer --and their real world feedback is good---it makes me keep thinking about this idea.

Here are two accounts of an outboard on an A27, from the Albin BC's thread here

#1 "I am the Albineer who installed the long shaft high thrust on my Albin.I used a heavy duty Adventure Marine beacket in the center of the boat between the swim grids. Anything less than the Adventure Marine Bracket will break under constant use.When purchasing the high thrust, long shaft (25 inch) Yamaha 9.9 I got power tilt. Also installed Trol-Eze steering so you can steer from the helm. I also routed the fuel line to the helm and back out so I can prime, lower, choke, start and steer from the helm.I did a lot of work so if I had a break down I would just conmtinue on my trip. If my main engine completely packs it in I may remove the diesel motor and use the Yamaha for main power.Running with the 9.9 Yamaha is only 2 knots slower than ,the MD3B Volvo. The Yamaha dealer told me this before I purchased the engine and he was right on.I wanted total control from the helm so it is quick, easy and safe to get underway quickly should the main engine fail.Not sure of the bracket height but I can measure and let you know. Cost about $1500.00 more but it is well worth the convenience and safety.I had a custom 15 gallon fuel tank made and mounted on the Port swim grid. It is powdeer coated white in color and looks good."


#2 I run my aft cabin Albin 27 out of Ketchikan, Alaska, and have a 9.9 H.P. 4 cycle Yamaha outboard mounted on the swim platform strictly as a " get home engine" and have used it as such a couple of times. I was told by the dealer that it was
their sailboat model and has the same propeller as found on their 50 H.P. model. When I have used it, sometimes for salmon trolling, it locks in the straight ahead position and after adjusting the throttle at the engine, I find that I can use the main rudder to control the forward motion just fine. It actually burns less fuel than the L.D. 28 Nissan diesel that Albin installed, and I can make about 5 knots as indicated by the G.P.S. at about 75% throttle. The only drawback with this setup might be running in heavy
seas and having the engine cavitating with the wave action, but I've never had to run in these conditions, as I'm retired and never run on a tight schedule and can wait for the weather to subside.



To me the arguments against the outboard are common and often repeated. I continue to write them down every time someone brings one up, and really research whether its reality, and if so how significant. Because everything on a boat is a trade off, I find some of them valid, and others not so valid:

1)its gas therefore its soooo dangerous (I'm already carrying gas for my dingy and generator)
2) its sooo heavy (when considering modern 4 strokes, not necessarily as heavy as you'd think)
3) the transom can't support it (remains to be seen, but seems an easy fix to reinforce)
4) you loose the heat exchanger and therefore hot water/hot water based cabin heater, and high output alternator (TRUE)
5) you have to purchase an outboard bracket, lift, steering & remote controls for the outboard (TRUE)
6) the boat might cavitate in steep seas (TRUE)
7)the engine will spin and spin and not move an inch (research high thrust)
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by eseyoung »

Honestly, i thought you all were crazy for wanting an outboard on a 27FC, but the more i think about it the more it makes sense. i think a drive bracket would be the way to mount...i am not sure exactly what the correct term is but those things that attach an outboard to the transom...I just looked at a Dusky Center console With one...they call it "dusky drive". Either way i think with the correct bracket i think you could eliminate issues 6 and 3. You would need engine controls...the steering wouldn't be a huge issue as they my old 27 had a teleflex type steering i think maybe just a longer cable would work.
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by JT48348 »

Right. I think a single engine bracket of the box style that bolts to the transom would suffice. The transom would require a backing plate or maybe some reinforcement on the inside, all of which would be hidden inside the aft lockers of the aft cabin. The swim platform would be modified to sit either side of the center mount bracket.

What size engine? I'm thinking somewhere between a single 30-50hp. Only certain size engines from certain brands have the high thrust gearing. I'm thinking Honda is the quietest and probably the most fuel efficient, but they only make a 60hp high thrust, which I really think is too big.

I would be very curious to see how the boat moves under just a single 25hp high thrust Yamaha.
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Re: Replacement for 4D61

Post by don123 »

I also have a bracket to enable me to use my 5 HP dingy motor on the swim platform for emergency power. I built the swim platform and it's mounting brackets myself and it's a very sturdy piece - I *think* it would probably support a 10 HP outboard as well

But, to install a 40 or 50 HP outboard would be another matter, IMO. I removed the stern light today and the transom is only 5/8ths thick and it consists of an outer skin no more than 1/8th thick and an inner skin of about the same thickness . . . . the rest is all soft (and easily compressible) coring. IMO, at a minimum you would need to remove the inner skin and coring on a very large area and replace it with layers of roving up to a minimum thickness of at least an inch or an 1 1/4. You'd also have to add stiffeners covering the full width of the transom. Doing this would be complicated by the inner berth liners which would need to be removed to do the work and reinstalled after

I agree with everyone else that a 50 HP outboard would power the boat nicely, but a proper, safe installation would not be an easy modification, IMO. *IF* a Honda 40 four stroke could get you to hull speed at 1/2 throttle, you'd be burning 2 GPH . . . . but I'm not all that certain that 1/2 throttle would get you to hull speed with such a small engine

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