Cockpit cracks

[Sprig1]

Hi just bought an 1984 albin 27fc and I have a lot of questions sorry about this. The main thing is stopping the leaks. The hull deck joint is going to be done. All port lights caulked who knows what I am going to get into there but I have a good idea. The cockpit has cracks in it which is letting water into the aft cabin should I just epoxy over it with matting or should it be reinforced from below to stop the cracks. The fuel is at least 5 years old and a full tank 70 gallons. Can the fuel tank tank be taken out through the aft cabin? I have access to a fuel polisher. All the hoses in the boat need to be changed just old and dry rotted. If I get all this fixed I can bring it home. Thanks for the help chris

[JT48348]

Chris: can you post some pics so we can see exactly what you're dealing with?

[Sprig1]

Will try to get some pictures boats about 1 hour from home hopefully next week. The cracks or located along the back of the cockpit on both sides of the entrance to the aft cabin. They are maybe 1/16 wide the previous owner tried to fill them. All the drawer bottoms show a lot of water damage. Definitely more then just hair line cracks . Will get the pictures so know one has to guess thanks chris

[tego]

Chris, If you're going to pull the tank, you will have excellent access to the underside of the cracks. I can't imagine what could cause the cracks unless the PO dropped the engine on the sole if he had it out. Some heavy roving on the underside will restore the strength. The drawer bottoms are cardboard and junk anyway. Just replace them with 1/4" ply. Looking forward to the pics. You'll get a lot of help on this site. Ben

[Jay Knoll]

Chris

On my 27FC I found that the cockpit drains weren't properly bedded and that water was getting in there. So, don't overlook that potential fix while you're taking care of the cockpit cracking. BTW are you sure that they are the source of the leak? Does the crack go all the way thru the sole?

Good luck,

Jay

[don123]

Yes, if you remove the set of drawers, the fuel tank can be taken out through the aft cabin - The previous owner did that with my boat and he did a really poor job of reinstalling the cabinets . . . . but he did a really good job of cleaning out the fuel tank

Don

[tego]

Chris, Be sure to upgrade the cockpit drains to 1 1/2" if they're the smaller units. Then bed them with 4200 and seal the outside flange to the level of the sole with 4200. They won't leak again! You also won't have standing water around the lip of the flange to collect grunge. This has really worked well on my 27. Ben

[Sprig1]

Hi Everyone thanks for the thoughts. I have just started working on the boat. I looked at those cockpit drains they sure are little and they looked clogged. Coming from a sailboat everything seems under sized. I would think the cracks must of leaked the previous owner tried to fill them with epoxy and now it is starting to pell up. Does everyone change all the thru halls to bronze or keep the plastic. I imagine the plastic is about shot. I guess the fuel tank will come out hate to do it but it is the right thing. I guess the guys that come clean really don't get all the dirt out and you will never know until it's to late. There never is an easy button in anything you do. The right way is the hard way. Looks like the plan is hull deck joint, bed all the port lights, clean the fuel tanks, fix cracks in the cockpit sole, all new hoses on everything they are all dry rotted. Hopefully due cockpit drains when I get back to my marina. The boat is under cover at the moment and dry would like to keep it that way. Any more ideas? I work full time so time and money are a premium. I just redid an Alberg 30 it's almost done and have it for sale. It turned into a real project had to do everything in the end and I think this will end up that way to. Oh well it will be nice when it's done. Thanks again for the knowledge and support chris

[tego]

Howdy Chris, Remember that the "plastic" thru-hulls lasted for a very long time, so I would recommend replacing them with Marelon. They're a lot cheaper and much better than the old nylon ones. They'll outlast the next five owners of your vessel. Remember, a lot of the guys on here have done everything you're planning on doing and a lot more, so keep us updated as you go along and don't hesitate to ask questions. You're among friends. Ben

[Tahoma]

RE: Old fuel fix without tank removal.

We had a similar problem with 10+ year-old fuel in our 27FC. Our solution was to buy an inexpensive automotive fuel pump and hook it up to a battery charger, install two inline Racor filters (a 30 micron followed by a 10 micron) and returned the fuel to the tank via the engine return line. We ran the pump for 16 to 20 hours. We then added about a quart of cetane booster and things worked out just fine after a couple of filter changes.

But then I met a fellow in Ontario who had to remove his tank and had it steam cleaned because of gelled diesel fuel. His boat sat in the south and ours sat in cooler coastal Maryland.

Jim

[Sprig1]

Hi thanks for the replies. I will go with Mylar above the waterline. Do you use it below the waterline I have always used bronze below. Sure would be nice to use Mylar a lot cheaper. I have access to a fuel polisher I guess I'll start with that and see how the problem progress. What type of ceten booster did you use? Thanks again everyone. Work and injuries have slowed me down a bit. Chris

[Mark Deeser]

Chris, as others have said the post here are a wealth of information. Getting ready to work with my ports, saw were some said many problems can be avoided by thru bolting them.

[tego]

Howdy Chris, Note I said "Marelon". That's a brand name of a fiber reinforced plastic that's a lot stronger and UV resistant than the old nylon. They can be used below the waterline also, avoiding the galvanic corrosion problem and bonding issues . I've used them for years with no problems. Look them up on-line. Ben

[Sprig1]

Hi I finaly got the pictures hope they load. I was working down that way today? Here are the cracks

[tego]

Howdy Chris, You're right, those cockpit drains are worthless. It appears that the cracks are the result of a "dufus" PO, who did some surgery on the cockpit sole. You should be able to tell by removing the aft cabin drawers and looking up in there with a flashlight. I've never seen a factory triangular block like that. I also don't see a pattern of non-skid on the sole. Maybe it's just the picture. It should be obvious underneath why it cracked in a perfect triangle like that. Perhaps a PO cut out the sole to remove the fuel tank. Let us know what you find. I'm really curious. Ben