Chief's Winterization List - 2017

[CapeDygerts]

Hi everyone,

A friend and I just bought a 1980 36 Classic with the Ford Lehman 120 hp engine and a diesel gen set. I am new to diesels and boats this big. I have read the posting on winterizing and have a few questions. The boat will be stored in Massachusetts. The engines are raw water cooled. How do I get all the water out to prevent damage? I know that on the old automobile engines, there was a petcock to drain the block. What do I do to the freshwater tank and holding tanks? I see references to "pink stuff" and it appears that I can just put this stuff in the tanks to prevent freezing. Can I drain them instead? I saw the chief's list and will try to locate all those things also. Also, why remove the water pump impellers? Thanks for any help you can give. Don Dygert

[Pitou]

Hi everyone,

A friend and I just bought a 1980 36 Classic with the Ford Lehman 120 hp engine and a diesel gen set. I am new to diesels and boats this big. I have read the posting on winterizing and have a few questions. The boat will be stored in Massachusetts. The engines are raw water cooled. How do I get all the water out to prevent damage? I know that on the old automobile engines, there was a petcock to drain the block. What do I do to the freshwater tank and holding tanks? I see references to "pink stuff" and it appears that I can just put this stuff in the tanks to prevent freezing. Can I drain them instead? I saw the chief's list and will try to locate all those things also. Also, why remove the water pump impellers? Thanks for any help you can give. Don Dygert

My suggestion to you is to hire someone that will let you look over their shoulder this year to decommission your new boat. That is what I did the first season coming from outboards to inboard diesel engines that have a seawater heat exchange system and all of the other onboard systems that need winterizing.

Personally I go a little over the top and pump out all of my seawater strainers, drain the heat exchanger, aftercooler and exhaust muffler. This gets as much saltwater out of thesystem as possible. Then a follow-up with one extra step in between by filling the strainers with freshwater mixed with Saltaway and a 5 gallon bucket filled with the Saltaway / freshwater mix and run the engine and do the same for all saltwater systems / let sit for a day and follow the drain procedure again so as to get the least amount of dilution when running RV/Marine antifreeze through the systems. Most go straight to running RV/Marine antifreeze and some run plain freshwater through before the RV/Marine antifreeze flush.

Don't forget to drain / pump dry the freshwater / potable system including the hot water tank which will not pump dry on its own. I drain and bypass the hot water tank as to not fill it with RV/Marine antifreeze which will leave a horrible taste and smell come spring and needlessly waste the RV/Marine antifreeze in the amount of the tanks full capacity. Another way to not waste RV/Marine anitfreeze is to disconnect the inlet line to the freshwater pump and pump the RV/Marine antifreeze through you system from there instead of pouring excessive amounts into your freshwater tank and if it's aluminum, just as the hot water tank/heater the taste will be there in the spring.

Again .. your best bet is to hire someone this year to help you understand your new boat and how to protect it.

[CapeDygerts]

Thanks Kevin. We hired a mechanic to do the winterization. Definitely a good idea.

[Nepidae]

Not sure who Chief is and not to step on any toes I thought I'd throw my list up here.

I have a list garnered from my experience and several on-line sources and it would seem maybe for a larger boat than Chief's.

Here it is, add or subtract for your boat. There may be duplications as I tried to list in a forward to aft direction.

If you have anything to add, pass it on (always looking for improvements)

Winterizing Your Boat Checklist

The first thing to do is to check the owner’s manuals for equipment aboard your boat. Are there specific recommendations for winter conditions?
Clean out the boat.
͟ Remove ALL important papers, store in a safe location OFF the boat
͟ Remove all electronic equipment and store it in a warm dry place. Check your owner’s manual for info on how to store this gear.
͟ Collect all battery items, remove batteries and make a list of each item & required batteries for the spring, store those necessary
͟ Check and repair over the winter lines, anchors, fenders, PFD’s, bunk cushions, flares, fire extinguishers, carpets, etc., if necessary
͟ Take dock lines used home & wash
͟ Check for all personal items and remove those desired
͟ Take all loose gear off the boat.
͟ Securely prop open all locker doors, access hatches, bilge access and anything else that will improve air circulation.
͟ Make sure solar vents are working

Clean and inspect your boat
Internal clean
͟ Remove all loose gear from the boat
͟ Clean all wood surfaces to remove any dirt or grease
͟ Scrub the ice box and/or refrigerator with a mild bleach solution
͟ Clean out the interior lockers
͟ Clean the bilge. Pour soap and hot water from MSR.
͟ Vacuum bilge dry
͟ Add pink anti-freeze to the bilge, from MSR, to stop any remaining water from freezing

External clean
͟ Scrub or pressure wash the hull and deck
͟ Clean hardware, rigging to remove salt, dirt, and grime
͟ Touch up any damaged varnish or paintwork
͟ Wash down & wax all fiberglass surfaces to protect over the winter

Inspect the hull
͟ Inspect the hull for cracks, blisters or any stress cracks. Repair as necessary
͟ Inspect the deck for cracks. Check for delamination at cracks and repair if required.
͟ Install backing plates to hardware or stanchions showing signs of stress cracking before repairing
͟ Inspect handrails for signs of breakage. Replace if necessary

Winterize your gasoline outboard engine.
͟ Start the engine
͟ Disconnect the fuel line at the engine and spray fogging oil into the carburetor air intake
͟ Run the engine until it stops
͟ Change the lower unit gear grease, if necessary
͟ Change engine oil
͟ Drain the gasoline tank and all gasoline lines. Ethanol in modern fuel absorbs moisture, separates, and damages gaskets and rubber fittings.
͟ Take the engine home
͟ Put the gasoline into your car’s fuel tank

Forward V-Berth
͟ Remove bedding and take home for washing & storage
͟ Check hanging locker for any items to remove
͟ Check anchor locker for wet chain & rode, remove for drying if necessary
͟ Check all drawers and area under v-berth for items to remove
͟ Check all port lights, adjust accordingly
͟ Check hatch, dog if necessary, check solar vent for running

Galley
͟ Empty all lockers, especially food lockers.
͟ Block open and clean the ice box and/or refrigerator.
͟ Open faucet and run until no water, leave faucets open

Heads-both
Drain and winterize the head.
͟ Pump out the holding tank. Flush the head with fresh water several times while emptying the holding tank.
͟ Close the head intake seacock
͟ Pump the head until all water in the bowl and hoses has been replaced by anti-freeze.
͟ Don’t open the seacock until next spring.
͟ Open faucet and run until no water, leave faucets open

Saloon
͟ Remove all electronic equipment and store it in a warm dry place.
͟ Collect all battery items remove batteries and make a list of each item & required batteries for the spring
͟ Remove items and take home
͟ Remove binoculars and take home

Engine room
͟ Ensure all lines are well supported with clips or straps
͟ Inspect and service all seacocks
͟ Inspect all hoses and hose clamps. All hoses should be double clamped. Replace hoses and/or clamps as necessary
͟ Inspect all electrical connections. Clean and reconnect if required.
͟ Inspect fuel fill line and fuel vents. Check all joints for leaks.
͟ Seal all air intakes, breather pipes, tank vents and exhaust outlet with duct tape or plastic seals.
͟ Inspect fuel tanks, lines, pump and filters for leaks
͟ Check A/F quality with gauge

Winterize your diesel inboard engine.
Fuel system
͟ Add stabilizer/biocide to your fuel tank and fill the tank. Read the instructions on the stabilizer container.
͟ Drain the water separator if necessary.
͟ Run the engine for 15 minutes to get stabilized fuel into all lines and injectors.
͟ If already on the hard, put anti-freeze into raw water strainers to winterize the engine.

The oil system
͟ Drain the oil while the engine is still hot from the fuel circulation above.
͟ Change the oil filters (get part #)
͟ Fill engine with clean oil, if necessary
͟ Drain the oil in the transmission. Refill with clean oil (get type & amount)

Replace the raw water with anti-freeze
͟ Close the raw water seacock
͟ Check impellers, replace if necessary
͟ Remove filters in strainers to take home for cleaning
͟ Connect system to transfer pink to strainers, use a bucket of 50-50 mixture of pink A/F
͟ Start the engine and run it until pink anti-freeze is discharged from the exhaust
͟ Turn off the engine
͟ Do not open the raw water seacock until next spring at splash
͟ Do the same for A/C raw water strainer
͟ After winterizing the engine, put plugs in the exhaust pipe outside

Drain all the water from the fresh water system.
͟ Leave everything empty.
͟ Open all faucets to empty water tanks
͟ With electric pumps you’ll need to, empty all water lines and heater tanks, making sure that no water remains in the tanks below the outlet level.
͟ Make sure you turn off the electrical supply to the heater tank before you drain it.
͟ Drain all the water from the hoses and pumps – you may need to disconnect some hoses at both ends to do this.
͟ Use air pump to blow all water lines clear including all feed to house
͟ Remove filter from water system and record for new next spring
͟ Drain water in heater tank at backflow valve
͟ Use ‘gizmo’ to put 1 gal pink in water tank
͟ Pump pink, eco-friendly anti-freeze into the hoses and pumps to protect them from any residual water.
͟ Check shower sump for water. Add pink antifreeze to sump to pump level, pump some overboard

Winterize the batteries.
͟ Check battery charge with specific gravity tool
͟ Cycle charge on 110v charger
͟ Recharge every month in storage.
͟ Don’t leave the batteries connected to the charger.

Aft Berth
͟ Remove bedding and take home for washing & storage
͟ Check hanging locker for any items to remove
͟ Check all drawers for items to remove
͟ Check all port lights, adjust accordingly
͟ Check &/or pack rudder posts
͟ Pour pink anti-freeze into bilge from hatches around berth
͟ Sort out projects parts in boat to get organized to complete
͟ Put pink A/F in drain
͟ Check hatch, dog if necessary, check solar vent for running

Sundeck
͟ Check all furniture and remove any that needs to be replaced
͟ Clean & remove any fenders, lines, etc., and store
͟ Remove some air from dinghy sides
͟ Remove outboard to take home

Flybridge
͟ Check all deck boxes and make sure they are secured and locked where appropriate
͟ Check bimini hardware is lowered and secured

Shore power
͟ Inspect shore power connections
͟ Remove shore power cords and store
͟ Spray both sides with corrosion inhibitor
͟ Close and secure all shore power ports

Misc
͟ Remove all flagstaffs for cover
͟ Drop anchor light for cover
͟ Check running gear for anode needs in spring, record
͟ Check props for any damage
͟ Wash boat with wash & wax product for the winter


Add to or delete from this list for your own boat.
Remember that freezing water is the most dangerous winter hazard to your boat!!!

[rcwhite]

A commonly overlooked item is to cover (seal) the exhaust and intake openings on the
diesel engines. These don't get fogged like a gasoline engine so keeping moisture out
is more of a concern.

[Tree]

I'm so pleased we don't have the harsh winters here like you guys do.

My winterisation check list contains the following

Turn key.

Go fishing.

*edit* forgot one thing, roll the covers up.

[jleonard]

My list is nowhere near as long as the one above posted by Nepidae. If I did all that, I'm not sure I'd finish before spring

One thing to note though is that the pink AF does not work properly when diluted so you may get burned. I know I would up here in New England

My batteries get charged, then they stay aboard. In the spring when I start to do the commissioning, they'll get topped off.
I don't normally fill my fuel tanks and I don't use an additive. Never had a problem.
The only things I take home for storage are food, clothes, my electronics (they get stored in my cold attic) my outboard (stored in garage). Dinghy goes home on a trailer.
Lines and fenders go home for cleaning, then back to the boat.
After 25 years of boating and winter storage, I try to keep the work to a minimum.
Most of those other "inspections" I do on a daily basis.

[Pitou]

I thought I'd throw my list up here.
Replace the raw water with anti-freeze
͟ Close the raw water seacock
͟ Check impellers, replace if necessary
͟ Remove filters in strainers to take home for cleaning
͟ Connect system to transfer pink to strainers, use a bucket of 50-50 mixture of pink A/F
͟ Start the engine and run it until pink anti-freeze is discharged from the exhaust
͟ Turn off the engine
͟ Do not open the raw water seacock until next spring at splash
͟ Do the same for A/C raw water strainer

One thing to note though is that the pink AF does not work properly when diluted so you may get burned. I know I would up here in New England

Jay is 100% correct .. do not dilute the pink AF or for that matter Any Poly Glycol RV/Marine Antifreeze. Possibly this was a typo and you meant to post just plain old -50 (minus 50). Diluting would be TABOO and doing so will get you into trouble.

[Halcyon]

Ok I'll bite, why is it bad to dilute pink anti freeze? I have been doing it for decades with no ill effect. I am in Maryland where it rarely gets below 0.

[RobS]

Ok I'll bite, why is it bad to dilute pink anti freeze? I have been doing it for decades with no ill effect. I am in Maryland where it rarely gets below 0.

I use Pure Oceans -50 from WM and the directions on the label say DO NOT DILUTE.

[Pitou]

Ok I'll bite, why is it bad to dilute pink anti freeze? I have been doing it for decades with no ill effect. I am in Maryland where it rarely gets below 0.

The PINK is not straight poly glycol, but actually already diluted to 30% and it's cheap enough.
The pink provides burst protection to -50°F (-46°C) and freeze protection within a range of +12°F to +16°F (-11°C to -9°C) at which point it starts to slush.
When testing with a refractometer or hydrometer designed for use with propylene glycol, freeze point readings on the PG scale will range from +12°F to +16°F

The burst point of PVC pipes used in most drinking water systems is about -10°F (-23°C). When winterizing water systems in regions where temperatures can fall below -10°F (-23°C) you should think about using the -100F Poly Glycol.

The PURPLE is 35% poly glycol and Provides burst protection to -60°F (-51°C) and freeze protection within a range of +7°F to +10°F (-14°C to -12°C) at which point it starts to slush which is its freeze point. The purple also has an additive package that prevents corrosion of aluminum, copper, brass and solder, but will not harm rubber, seals or hose materials. this is what I run through my engine and generator's raw water side.

Then there is the BLUE GREEN 60% poly glycol for our northern friends. It provides burst protection to -100°F (-73°C) and freeze / slush protection within a range of -58°F to -63°F (-50°C to - 52°C)

Everyone can make their own choices. Where I am in north eastern MA we often have winter stretches whre we find ourselves at zero degrees at night and a daily high of 8 to 10 degrees during the day and often hit very short stretches of minus 1 to 3 at night and plus single digit days for a few days here and there. My in-laws in northern VT often hit mnus 15 at night and high of zero during the day for a few weeks straight in January and a little extra joy sprinkled in here and there .. they winterized with -100 / blue, green PG for their boat.

Better safe than sorry.

[Deedee]

Here's what I do for my winterization list - I plan a New Years cruise, then go to Pelican bay in February. Down to Marco in March and then a few nights here and there. We do have to be flexible when the fronts come though!

We live in SW FL....come on down. Summer is hot but that's why we have a generator and AC.

Deedee & Tim
Miller Time

[filer]

<Bump.>

[whwells]

Sea Knoll winterized. All of the above fits most of the Ablins. The big thing for me is the power train and gen. set. Around Anacortes, Wa everyone will say all this is unnecessary. Well, if you life close by that may be so. However, if your are some distance from the boat and that serious freeze comes through lots of bad things can happen.
My big thing if having someone there to start and stop the engine or gen set while I pour in a bottle at at time. This is my second Albin with the Yanmar 315s.
Have found that 5 of the jugs for each engine works well. It only takes a single jug for the Gen. Set which is a Northern Lights set.
I do take a chance on the fresh water system of just leaving the facets open. Putting the pink stuff in the tanks makes for not so nice situation in the spring. A few gallons goes into the black water system from the head and same for the shower slump.

So far all has worked out well.

whwells "Howard"

[Tree]

I take my hat off to your guys over there - it would drive me mad having a short boating season followed by all the wrapping up etc for winter!