Entec 4.2 generator won't start

[tshug]

Having a problem starting my 2004 Entec diesel generator. It will attempt to start, but will not start. The Entec also has a hand crank option to start it and I've tried that as well without any luck. Has anyone else worked on an Entec that could give me some pointers as to what to look for. With the season up here ending soon I want to get it started so it can be winterized.

[eseyoung]

I don't know much about Entec specifically but start with the easiest...is it getting fuel? to check i usually loosen the nut where the line goes to the injector and crank. you should see a few drops of fuel.

If you are getting fuel next stop for me would be to make sure the glow plugs are coming on. Test those with a multimeter.


All that said if worse comes to worse there are ways to winterize without starting....

[Pitou]

T - I feel your pain and have been there 2X with my Entec in the 28. These generators need to be run and loaded at least once each week or problems will persist. Shame on me for not learning my lesson the first time around.

I'm only guessing, but suspect if you're getting fuel and it's turning over that the piston and exhaust valve have corrossion on them. On these units moisture gets in through the exhaust valve rusting the piston & valve. This is why it needs to be run in order to prevent this from happening. The same is true for all saltwater coolant & exhaust cooled generators in any boat and any brand generator, but more so with the single cylinder Entec.

My first time around with this issue I replaced the piston assembly, intake & exhaust valves. I took things apart and got it all back together,but needed someone to adjust the valve clearances .. it was finicky and wouldn't run unless dead on .. try adjusting the valves first before tearing things down. My first thought was to have the cylinder honed, but there is zero room to do this without honing into the coolant ports.

Well, I didn't follow my mechanics advice of running and loading each week and within two years I was back in the same place! At this point my 28 was going up for sale and the cost of parts was around $1500 and a new block was $2200. Weighing the difference between the two and with the boat up for sale I opted for the new block.

New engine 3.29.13 (361x640).jpg

New engine2 3.29.13 (361x640).jpg

Speaking to my mechanic he shared that a surveyor, that he works with when engine surveys are required, said when ever he inspects a boat with an Entec in it the odds are that it does not start. It's not that they are bad units, it's that they are generally in smaller boats and do not get run. When I spoke to the original owner of EntecWest he shared that this is a common problem as his biggest customers were Albin, SeaRay, Regal & Four Winns all putting these units in there sub 30 foot boats that generally are not cruised with the generators being in use.

I have a some spare parts that did not make it out the door with the sale and would be happy to give them to you: spare injector, fuel filter, some gaskets, etc. if you would like them. I'm just north of Boston and we could easily connect or I'm happy to drop a box in the mail.

Here is a link to EntecWest now owned by Mastry Engine in St. Petersburg, FL http://entecwest.com/index.htm

If I can help you along the way please let me know.

As far as winterizing you can force feed the polyprop through the system by attaching a hose to your fresh or salt water washdowns and let it push / flow through the salt water intake on the Entec by disconnecting the salt water hose from the outflow of the salt water intake strainer. Be sure to disconnect the hose coming from the heat exchanger going to the exhaust manifold or you will flood the piston through the exhast valve. Again, happy to assist in anyway that I can.

[thomaslong]

Assuming the three lights are illuminated on the starting panel, try shooting a very small amount of WD40 into the air intake. Remove the air filter and spray into the intake for about one second. Do NOT use starting fluid; it can burn your ring(s). If these generators are not run frequently and for a long time, the valves get pitted and need to be regapped. Doug Jensen at Entec West is extremely helpful; he knows everything about these little monsters.

[Pitou]

Assuming the three lights are illuminated on the starting panel, try shooting a very small amount of WD40 into the air intake. Remove the air filter and spray into the intake for about one second. Do NOT use starting fluid; it can burn your ring(s). If these generators are not run frequently and for a long time, the valves get pitted and need to be regapped. Doug Jensen at Entec West is extremely helpful; he knows everything about these little monsters.

You're right on with needing to be run frequently. I did the WD routine for awhile. For one season I did this each time.

Before selling out to Mastry about two plus years ago the original owner of Entec West shared his cell phone with me so if I was trouble shooting when he was closed he could be available to help out. He was a great guy! Mastry bought the company to gain the rights to the generator side of these units. Hopefully they're now up to speed on the Farymann Diesel engine used on these units.

To the OP on this thread, my first post made the assumption that all lights on the panel are on and fuel is getting to the injector. As stated earlier, loosen the banjo bolt on top of the injector to check for fuel. I am hoping very much that your fix is not too deep. When starting do not crank for more thaan 3 - 7 seconds or you will flood the exhaust valve as sea water will not be exhausted through the manifold elbow. When trying to starting 2X is the limit. When troubleshooting I shutoff the thru hull so things would not flood.

[abellch]

Not much to add to the other replies except I recently restored one that had been sitting for an extended period of time and the injector pump plunger was stuck. Easy enough to check for fuel at injector also have experienced a failure of the fuel shut off valve that prevented starting. I have this "spare 4.2" in my garage that runs and carries 3kw load. Needs fuel shut off kit to be complete if anyone is interested.

[denchen]

An old trick to start old diesels was to put ordinary engine oil in cylinder. This reduced the compression area so increased the compression and oiled the rings to stop leakage. When the engine started you would get loads of smoke but that would clear when the engine had been running for a while. Of course this would not work if the rings were shot or no fuel is getting through.

[denchen]

An old trick to start old diesels was to put ordinary engine oil in cylinder. This reduced the compression area so increased the compression and oiled the rings to stop leakage. When the engine started you would get loads of smoke but that would clear when the engine had been running for a while. Of course this would not work if the rings or valves were shot or no fuel is getting through.

[tshug]

Thanks for all the for all the reply's. Just got back from taking another look at it and like Kevin ran into I have some serious issues with it. It is getting fuel but will not start. Checked the oil level again and noticed there is water mixed in with the oil. Also gave water at the air filter. One of the guys at my club is going to give me a hand taking it out of the boat before everything freezes up here this winter. Once it. Once it's out I can decide whether to have it repaired or bite the bullet on buying a new one. I just bought the Albin this spring and the Entec only had 39 hours on it since 2004. Lesson learned the hard way!! Don't let them just sit there without any use!

Thanks,
Ted

[tshug]

Kevin, thanks for the offer on the parts and help. I'll let you know once I get further into it.

[Pitou]

Ted - I had water in my oil as well. Glad to hear that you have some help on this. I found that the only way to get the whole unit out was to disconnect the generator pan from it's base panel beneath. As you disconnect various items / fuel & water hoses, electrical wire, etc. I'd recommend different colored zip ties in order to make matching things up later a lot easier / (example hose from sea water strainer .. green on strainer hose end, green on strainer nipple where it came off, yellow on sea water pump end of hose, yellow on sea water pump nipple, red on middle of hose & red around hole on generator pan where it passes through). Follow this procedure with different color combos for every thing that is removed in order to get ready to lift the unit out of the bilge and this will help putting the puzzle back together later.

If your install is like mine was, you'll unfortunately find the bolts holding the Entec generator unit secure are positioned so that they are inaccessible from beneath while installed in the boat requiring the whole unit generator and pan to be removed as one unit. The generator pan was secured with 4 verrrry long phillips head screws. Once removed the whole unit / pan & generator can be removed with two straps, preferably with two or three guys. The third can steady the unit as it is lifted through the center hatch hole. The hatch will need to be removed. Once out of the hole we had man number three place two 2 X 4's acorss the hatch hole so that we could place the unit down and regroup.

I hope that my experience can help save you some time.

[abellch]

Ted-If you are getting significant water intrusion you want to take a hard look at the overall instal of the raw water and exhaust to be sure it is within guidelines. Hard to explian that much water from lack of use. Scoop intake, no vented loop or inadequate exhaust drop may have contributed to the failure.

[halfmoon]

My non-starting Entec needed a valve adjustment. Started immediately after that. Did it with the help of my brother. Didn't have the water/oil problem though.

[corevan]

Hey there - just wanted to post for anyone viewing this in the future. I have an Entec 4200 EW-4200D in great shape that I'm looking to get rid of.

It runs, so could be used as a replacement or for parts.