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28TE WINDLASS

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joel
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28TE WINDLASS

Post by joel »

I AM LOOKING TO ADD A WINDLASS TO MY 28.
LOOKING FOR PRO AND CONS FOR VERT. VS. HORZ.
CONFIGURATION.

THANKS
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RobS
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Re: 28TE WINDLASS

Post by RobS »

The anchor locker on the 28TE is not ideal for a windlass, the locker is shallow and wide. You do not want to install a vertical windlass that would take up any room within the locker. A horizontal windlass is likely the best bet. Here's what happened when I started with 50ft of chain. I eventually cut it down to 40ft and it was much better but could still castle and jamb against the underside of the deck if I wasn't mindful of it. Also, there's a maximum deck thickness for vertical windlasses which could be an issue. With the integrated pocket mounted pulpit and bow deck the combined thickness is considerable. The pulpit sits in a pocket ON the bow so there is the thickness of the actual pulpit PLUS the thickness of the bow deck under it.
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Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's

(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408

Luck is the residue of good design.
Chris & Dale

Re: 28TE WINDLASS

Post by Chris & Dale »

Joel,
I'm including a post I did on installing a windlass on our 28TE. Admittedly, I only have 10' of chain (which I plan to take out to 25-30') but our primary anchoring is for fishing....wife really likes shore power when we cruise. Our anchor chain and line coil up very neatly, but that may be a function of the windlass itself. Take your time and research, but regardless, pushing that button is a whole lot better than breaking the back pulling in an anchor....you won't be sorry.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5633

Good Luck!
joel
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Re: 28TE WINDLASS

Post by joel »

THANKS ROB AND DALE FOR WINDLASS INFO. VERY HELPFULL.
BOAT HAS BEEN ON GRD. FOR 4 YEARS. NEXT YEAR GOING IN
COME HELL OR HIGHWATER. TRYING TO GET HER ALL SET UP.

JOEL
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Pitou
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Re: 28TE WINDLASS

Post by Pitou »

I'm with Rob that a horiizontal windlass is the only way to go with the short depth anchor locker.

My first rode set-up on the 28 was 35 ft. of 1/4 inch chain with 275 ft. of 3 strand and no issues with castling. Rob may have had more 3 strand. I started doing more nights on anchor and needed more chain for some tight anchorages and decided to switch things up with a combination of plait / brait rode and chain. The new rode consisted of 100 ft. of chain and 200 feet of plait. The plait being shorter and softer than 3 strand nested more compact and lower accomodating the 100 ft. of chain and though it castled, it did not interfere with the windlass. This set-up gives another option and hopefully does not add confusion.
kevinS
>><<>>;>

Former Boats:

- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23

- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
Tobermory
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Re: 28TE WINDLASS

Post by Tobermory »

I also have a 28TE and upgraded my windlass system last year. When I purchased the boat four years ago it came with a 700 watt vertical windlass and an anchor rode consisting of 30 feet of 3/8ths chain and about 150 ft of braided nylon line. The windlass did not seem to grab the chain or line very well and raising the anchor was always a bit of an adventure. The problem seemed to be the rode was only on the windlass gypsy for 90 degrees and any twist or strain in the line seemed to cause it to skip. I upgraded to a 1000 watt Lewmar horizontal windlass. The advantage of a horizontal windlass is that the rode is on the gypsy for 180 degrees and that provides for a much more secure pull. it is also lower profile and, I think, more attractive. The conversion was relatively simple. It required upgrading the power cords from the battery to the windlass to meet the higher loads. Each manufacturer will have its own specs for that. Size of load vs. length of run, etc. It also required a longer shaft as an earlier response alluded to. However Lewmar has a longer shaft option, for a few dollars more, that worked. My yard also crafted a brushed stainless plate for the deck to cover the old holes and provide a secure base. At the same time I upgraded to 200 feet of 1/4 inch chain and 100 ft of braided nylon rode with a low profile splice that will go around the gypsy without too much trouble. I also added foot controls on the foredeck. The boat came with a control only at the helm station. I would recommend the foredeck controls for convenience. All of that was a bit of extra weight (I forget exactly how much the chain weighed but it was not really that much) however at the same time I pulled out the air conditioner from under the v-berth and that saved some weight. I live on the west coast of Canada and air conditioning is not a priority here. All of that is connected to a 22 lb. Delta anchor. It has worked flawlessly for the last two seasons. The small additional net weight does not seem to have affected performance.
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DougSea
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Re: 28TE WINDLASS

Post by DougSea »

Tobermory wrote:...I upgraded to a 1000 watt Lewmar horizontal windlass. The advantage of a horizontal windlass is that the rode is on the gypsy for 180 degrees and that provides for a much more secure pull. it is also lower profile and, I think, more attractive...
Hi Tobermory,

Nice write up. Just a point, I'm quite certain you're describing a vertical windlass, not a horizontal. A vertical has the motor mounted below deck, and has a lower above deck profile. They also grab the chain over a larger percentage of the gypsy as you describe quite well. I had the Lewmar vertical on our 28 and it WAS much smoother than the horizontal on the 35.

It's the orientation of the gypsy drive shaft that determines the designation.

http://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8338&lid=25805
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Tobermory
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Re: 28TE WINDLASS

Post by Tobermory »

Not sure what happened to my previous attempt to respond but thanks DougSea, you are correct. I was thinking of the orientation of the gypsy not the shaft.
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