• Welcome to https://albinowners.net, the new home of Albin Owners Group!
• You will need to log in here, and you may want to bookmark this site. If you don't remember your password, use the I forgot my password link to reset it.
• All content has been transferred from our previous site.
Contact Us if you have any questions or notice a problem. If you're not receiving our email, include a phone number where we can text you.

Leaking Drive Shaft/Shaft Seal

Engines, Electric, Plumbing, etc.

Moderator: Jeremyvmd

Post Reply
koppercreative
Swabby
Swabby
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2014 6:42 am
Home Port: Newport

Leaking Drive Shaft/Shaft Seal

Post by koppercreative »

IMG_2524.JPG.jpeg
Hello all,

I've looked around on the forum and found some posts that seem to describe our issue of a leaky shaft seal. The fixes however have confused me a bit. When looking at the area I am not seeing a nut to tighten the stuffing box. Currently the leak is pretty strong, far more then a drip every 10 or so seconds. This is a 1994 28 TE so I'm assuming it has a stuffing box instead of any sort of water cooled system, although as shown in the photos there is a small hose running into the shaft.

As you can see in the pictures the leak is coming from above any of the rubber hosings, does any one have any ideas on what the fix is for this? Is this a leaky stuffing, or cutlass issue?


Any help would be greatly appreciated!
IMG_2524.JPG.jpeg
IMG_2525.JPG.jpeg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. To view images, please register for a free account.
User avatar
Tree
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 1615
Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:28 pm
Home Port: Portsmouth, UK
Location: Bordon, UK
Contact:

Re: Leaking Drive Shaft/Shaft Seal

Post by Tree »

You have what is known as a dripless seal. They are water cooled by the hose you see going into it from the side. The water then exits via the cutlass bearing.

The seal on these should really be changed every 600 hours if I recall and I suspect that your seal has finally worn enough to start leaking.

Pretty confident you have a Tides Marine Seal, google it as I'm on my iphone and can't give you the link! You'll see how they work and what replacement part.

I would however take a close look at the underside of your oil pan to ensure that the sea water isn't corroding it.
Fisher Price 2
Hull Number AUL28489L900
Yanmar 6LP-STE
Built in Portsmouth RI, USA - Berthed in Portsmouth Hampshire, United Kingdom.
koppercreative
Swabby
Swabby
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2014 6:42 am
Home Port: Newport

Re: Leaking Drive Shaft/Shaft Seal

Post by koppercreative »

Thank you very much! That is an excellent lead... It appears if it is in fact a Tides Marine Seal, it seems the fix can be done while the boat is in the water, I will check back in when I have more info.
N4QC
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 215
Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2006 8:56 pm
Location: Tampa Bay

Re: Leaking Drive Shaft/Shaft Seal

Post by N4QC »

Check out the Tides Marine web page and follow the video and counter display links. The video indicates that the seal can be swapped out if the boat is in the water. By looking at the dealer counter display there is an optional spare seal kit already installed on the shaft for when it comes time to replace the seal. The housing for the replacement seal is seen on the video and I suspect that it was installed at the time the original set up was installed – boat out of water. May want to double check to see if the seal can be replaced while the boat is in the water without the spare kit already in place…

Happy researching,
Joe
Albin Getaway
"LabTime"
User avatar
gerber30
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 80
Joined: Wed Jun 24, 2009 9:23 pm
Home Port: Fort Pierce, FL

Re: Leaking Drive Shaft/Shaft Seal

Post by gerber30 »

That does not look like A Tides Marine Seal to me. I have a 1997 with the same set-up. It takes Flax packing like a standard stuffing box. I replaced mine with the GFO (GORE® GFO® Packing) which is far superior to standard flax packing. Its a little hard to get too, but possible. I don't think I would try it while in the water. Also you may want to replace those four hose clamps, they are very important and they look a little worn in the pictures. Be careful when working working down there not to break off the hose connected to the stuffing box, the flange can become brittle over time (I broke mine off! Had to tap in a new one). That raw water line does cool the shaft like a Tides Seal. I will try and find some of the pictures of mine to compare.

Jim
2004 31 TE w/ twin 370 Cummins (current)

Previous Boat
'97 28 TE w/2005 Yanmar
"Marianne"
User avatar
gerber30
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 80
Joined: Wed Jun 24, 2009 9:23 pm
Home Port: Fort Pierce, FL

Re: Leaking Drive Shaft/Shaft Seal

Post by gerber30 »

This is a shot of mine when I first got the boat. You can see how important it is not to have the seal leaking too much. Since it is right under the engine it will spray whatever water you are boating in on the underside of the engine. Since I have a Yanmar the pan and Oil dipstick tube are steel! After I replaced the dipstick tube and cleaned up the oil pan, I zip tied a clear plastic shield over the area which will prevent ANY salt-spray from hitting the underside of the engine, but still allows a visual inspection. Hope this helps

Jim
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. To view images, please register for a free account.
2004 31 TE w/ twin 370 Cummins (current)

Previous Boat
'97 28 TE w/2005 Yanmar
"Marianne"
User avatar
Tree
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 1615
Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:28 pm
Home Port: Portsmouth, UK
Location: Bordon, UK
Contact:

Re: Leaking Drive Shaft/Shaft Seal

Post by Tree »

Now I've had a look on a screen bigger than an iPhone i would be inclined to agree that that isn't a tides seal

if it is a packing gland then go with the GFO Gortex, i'm using it on the rudder shaft and don't get any leaks whatsoever it really is brillliant stuff.
Fisher Price 2
Hull Number AUL28489L900
Yanmar 6LP-STE
Built in Portsmouth RI, USA - Berthed in Portsmouth Hampshire, United Kingdom.
User avatar
DougSea
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 2762
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
Location: Essex, Connecticut

Re: Leaking Drive Shaft/Shaft Seal

Post by DougSea »

I'm with Gerber (Jim). Looks like the stuffing box we had on our 1997 28. When I look at the OP's 3rd shot I can see the nut to the left.

The cooling water feed makes it look like a dripless, but it's a traditional stuffing box with cooling for the cutlass bearing.

http://catalog.buckalgonquin.com/viewit ... -spud-type?

I'd have to say, looking at the pictures, that it hasn't seen much in the way of maintenance. Might want to have a yard, or at least a sharp mechanic, take a look.
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
koppercreative
Swabby
Swabby
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2014 6:42 am
Home Port: Newport

Re: Leaking Drive Shaft/Shaft Seal

Post by koppercreative »

Thanks all for the responses, helpful info... Going to have a mechanic look at it in the next few days, we'll post results!
Post Reply

Return to “Albin Maintenance”