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Boat wiring

Not model or forum specific.

Moderators: DougSea, RobS

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Double Lucky

Boat wiring

Post by Double Lucky »

I am almost embarrassed to ask this question, but I'm not easily embarrassed so here goes: What is the best way to connect wiring on board a boat? Have any of you used the new heat/solder connectors? Supposedly they solder and heat shrink when heat is applied? What do you use to heat these, a cigarette lighter? How 'bout wire nuts? I have seen were nuts that contain silicon sealer to make them waterproof. Would these work? Sure would be easy if they worked and stood the test of time. Old fashioned crimp style connectors? I've got a smörgåsbord (this word courtesy of spell check) of these on Double Lucky and need guidance so that I can settle on one method and use it from here on out. What say ye?

I can't wait to find out! Thanks.

Russ
Denis
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Post by Denis »

Russ, I am not an electrician but here is my opinion .
I have soldered connections and used regular heat shrink tubing over the connection that works fine but is a pain sometimes if you have different sizes of wire. I have used crimp connectors that you heat up with a lighter after to heat shrink the ends and make them moisture tight. As far as I know wire nuts are a no-no on a boat. I know they make silicone filled wire nuts but I don't think they are to be used.
Former Owner of
1994 28'TE
"Red Stripe"
Double Lucky

soldering

Post by Double Lucky »

Denis, how do you get the soldering iron or torch where you need it when you are working with one hand, feet on the gunnel and your head in the bilge? I want good solid connections but I'm struggling with this now. What kind of torch do you use? How 'bout the regular crimp butt connections? I feel like I need to settle on a system and get the connectors, shrink tubing, etc. that will be on hand for repairs and projects. This weekend was pump weekend. I replaced the fresh water pump, the salt water wash down and the bait well pump. Each one is connected differently. I think I'm creating a sea-going heath-kit experiment. Help? Thanks.

Russ
Denis
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Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:28 pm
Location: Mystic, CT

Post by Denis »

That makes for a great visual.
I use a 45 watt soldering iron for the soldering and heat shrink, or if I use the crimp connectors with the heat shrink ends I crimp them and then use a lighter like those used for a gas grill. Get this visual, iron in one hand, solder in your mouth, feet on gunnel, use your forehead to direct your body around. It's GREAT exercise! :lol:
Former Owner of
1994 28'TE
"Red Stripe"
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Russell
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Home Port: Stuart, FL
Location: Stuart, FL

Post by Russell »

I think the butt connectors and a heat gun for the shrink fit tubing are the safest methods. I notice that most of the wire to wire connections for pumps etc. are made that way at the factory.
Russ
2005 Flush Deck
Honey Girl
Volvo D6-310
Stuart FL
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Post by Mariner »

Wire nuts of any sort are not to be used on any vehicle, be it a boat, car, RV, or airplane. They are only suitable for stationary use, like in a house. They will rattle loose in a mobile environment.

On the boat, I use Ancor connectors for everything. They are tinned and resist corrosion. For the smaller wires, I use the ones that have the heat shrink casing built in. For larger wires, I buy the color coded heat shrink. You want to use the Ancor marine heat shrink, not the stuff you buy at the auto parts store. The Ancor stuff has a glue on the inside that makes it waterproof, not just electrically insulated, like the automotive stuff.

To heat up the heat shrink, I just use a lighter. It's small, safe and easy to use. I suggest a Zippo since a Bic will get too hot to use more than once. Hold it low and let it take it's time, rotating the wire back and forth to distribute heat evenly. I've found that it's very hard to burn the Ancor heat shrink. Short of actually touching the flame to the wire, it's always held up well.
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