Replacing Norcold 12V - 28TE

[Chris & Dale]

Here's my project post for replacing the 14 year old Norcold w/an Isotherm Cruise 49 Standard, which provides a lot more space in the same location. Thanks Nancy for the key piece of raising the unit to get it to slide in snug.

Fridge Opening (old).jpg

1. Remove the old unit. Leave as much of the original wiring as you can...it makes the new installation easier. If it's like mine, then you'll see this big hole, a platform, and your water lines to the sink.

2. Remove the storage cabinet next to the fridge. First empty it and then remove the 4 inner screws. Note that these actually go into the outside frame, not the fiberglass. Then remove the 4 outer screws, which releases the frame. You may find some caulk along the top edge, so have your box cutter ready.

Frame 1st.JPG

storage box.JPG

Your sink line runs thru a hole in the back of box, so you have to remove the clamp and hose and then feed it back as you remove the box piece. Remove the box and you're ready to proceed.

box out.JPG

3. Take a 15" 2x4" and install it as shown in the picture. 2 screws to hold it in place is all that's needed.

2x4 & lines moved.JPG

4. If they're like mine, move you water lines back up the slope about 4-6" just to get them out of the way. Remember, this fridge is deeper, and the reason you're raising it is because of the slope.

5. Now for the most critical part - cutting out the top of the hole to raise the unit. Measure twice - cut once!
And don't forget to account for the screw heads on the frame of the fridge. I didn't and had to go back and cut again. I came down 7/8" from the top to draw my line. 3/4" would have prevented a 2nd cut. It's going to be a tight fit anyway, particularly when the original hole was "rough cut". Did a little course filing w/my rasp as well.

layline.JPG

begin cutout.JPG

finished cut.JPG

6. You can see in the pictures that I have plenty of wire for the hook up, which made it really easy. I was able to do it outside of the hole, then slide the unit in. Make sure you turn it on at the panel and test it before final taping. I used male/female connectors and then taped them in case I ever have to take it apart and don't want to re-splice. When you get to the final fit, just make sure none of your wires are caught or pinched anywhere. Again, the big hole next to the fridge is great for checking everything out behind the unit.

connectors.JPG

7. Get it in and flush and screw it down. Reinstall your storage box, sink drain, and door frame.

New Fridge.JPG

Now all I have to do is decide to cover the hole at the bottom or do as others suggested and install a vent there.

future vent.JPG

With the old fridge already out, it took me about 4 hours today to finish. Had I cut w/a little extra margin, probably 3 hours.
Tools: Small power screwdriver for inside the box, a skill saw, a good rasp, electrical connectors/tape/crimpers, drill & bits, and your general tool bag of Stuff!

I didn't take exact measurements to give you. Sorry. The critical eyes will see that there's a slight slope which couldn't be helped as the platform wasn't exactly level. It's square at top where it's visible. I checked the seal on the door and it's fine. Kinda like this 100+ year old house I live in....nothing's square or level!

Questions, write.

Good Luck!

[Nancy]

Looks good, Chris! I think you'll be very satisfied with this fridge. It draws less current than the old Norcold, and it's bigger as you point out, although "bigger" is kind of a relative term in this case....

Just a few comments for others who may follow in our footsteps.

We didn't run into the problem of the out-of square bottom opening ('95 engine box). It's no big deal either way - easily camouflaged.

It's not necessary to remove the adjacent cabinet to get the fridge in; we didn't. But it might make installation easier.

We took the opportunity of having the fridge out to install a new sink faucet. Very easy - I did it myself.

[Chris & Dale]

Follow-up: found this vent at West Marine for a total of $7.46 w/free shipping. Made of plastic so customizing the louvers on the backside to fit will be relatively easy. Will post when it's installed.

Vent.jpg

p.s. The C49 is so quiet that when I wired and turned it on before putting in the hole....I had to put my hand on it to make sure it was working.

[Chris & Dale]

Vent Installation - Had to remove the top frame piece and the 1st louver to get it to fit. Also at the end under the door hinge I had to cut back some of the internal frame. It will be very apparent what to do the minute you hold up the vent to the existing hole. In hindsight, I could have actually opened the hole about a 1/2" but this was easier, a lot less messy, and if someone's paying that close attention....they're not getting an ice cold beer out of the new fridge (yeah, it works fantastic - ice chips in the beer!). Anyway, here's a picture of the finished product. I proclaim this project a success and COMPLETE!

New Fridge Vent.JPG

[whwells]

Chris & Dale: Very nice work & thanks for sharing.
whwells "Howard"
2006 35te Flybridge Conv.
2004 Osprey 22