Hi folks....own a 2000 Albin 28TE with a yanmar 6lp/ste.....any body know what the make and model of the fuel sending unit is? Ours is tango uniform and needs to replaced as the tank always reads FULL even when it's empty!
VR
Gerry
sogibg@yahoo.com
• Welcome to https://albinowners.net, the new home of Albin Owners Group!
• You will need to log in here, and you may want to bookmark this site. If you don't remember your password, use the I forgot my password link to reset it.
• All content has been transferred from our previous site.
• Contact Us if you have any questions or notice a problem. If you're not receiving our email, include a phone number where we can text you.
• You will need to log in here, and you may want to bookmark this site. If you don't remember your password, use the I forgot my password link to reset it.
• All content has been transferred from our previous site.
• Contact Us if you have any questions or notice a problem. If you're not receiving our email, include a phone number where we can text you.
FAQ:
• Membership information
• Burgees
• How to post photos
• Membership information
• Burgees
• How to post photos
Albin 28TE make and model of fuel sending unit
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2010 1:29 pm
- Home Port: Perth Amboy, NJ
- amber jj
- Gold Member
- Posts: 282
- Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:03 pm
- Home Port: Turkey Point ont. canada
- Location: Dundas Ont.Can.
Re: Albin 28TE make and model of fuel sending unit
Gerry check your connections around the sending unit and make sure they are clean.Sounds like a grounding problem to me.You may save some $.
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: Albin 28TE make and model of fuel sending unit
Sounds like a wiring issue. There is a lot of info here available here so always use the "Search" function prior to posting, either your issue will be answered or you will learn more about your issue to make your post more precise.
Here's one link and some cut/pastes from my prior posts:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1974&hilit=+sender
These boats were outfitted with Teleflex (or similar) fuel gauges which are Empty 240 Ohms to Full 33 Ohms. Do you have an ohm meter to test your sending unit? This will confirm the sending unit is working and also tell you what ohm range your gauge needs to read. The ohm meter POS goes to the sender terminal and the NEG to a good ground. Depending on your full level you should be in the range I referenced above. To further the test top off the tank and you should get a reading of ~33 Ohms.
The sender by Centroid is a 3 wire electronic sender, not a standard float type sender. I’ll assume this is what you have. This sender is simply a probe consisting of a small aluminum tube inside a larger aluminum tube and small insulators separate the two tubes. There are no moving parts. The capacitance changes as the fuel level rises and this reading is converted to a signal readable by the fuel gauge. When I bought TOY_RIFIC last year the gauge was not accurate enough for my liking. I had topped off the tank and it read just better than ¾ so over the winter I replaced the sender. I could have re-calibrated it but since it was 7 years old and I had the deck off I chose to replace it and calibrate it myself. It’s now amazingly accurate.
The 3 wires to the sender are POS, NEG & SEND which are self-explanatory.
If the fuel gauge is pegged full when powered up it could be:
1. Water in the fuel tank
2. Send wire is touching NEG terminal or wiring
3. Center tube in sender is touching outside tube
Here's one link and some cut/pastes from my prior posts:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1974&hilit=+sender
These boats were outfitted with Teleflex (or similar) fuel gauges which are Empty 240 Ohms to Full 33 Ohms. Do you have an ohm meter to test your sending unit? This will confirm the sending unit is working and also tell you what ohm range your gauge needs to read. The ohm meter POS goes to the sender terminal and the NEG to a good ground. Depending on your full level you should be in the range I referenced above. To further the test top off the tank and you should get a reading of ~33 Ohms.
The sender by Centroid is a 3 wire electronic sender, not a standard float type sender. I’ll assume this is what you have. This sender is simply a probe consisting of a small aluminum tube inside a larger aluminum tube and small insulators separate the two tubes. There are no moving parts. The capacitance changes as the fuel level rises and this reading is converted to a signal readable by the fuel gauge. When I bought TOY_RIFIC last year the gauge was not accurate enough for my liking. I had topped off the tank and it read just better than ¾ so over the winter I replaced the sender. I could have re-calibrated it but since it was 7 years old and I had the deck off I chose to replace it and calibrate it myself. It’s now amazingly accurate.
The 3 wires to the sender are POS, NEG & SEND which are self-explanatory.
If the fuel gauge is pegged full when powered up it could be:
1. Water in the fuel tank
2. Send wire is touching NEG terminal or wiring
3. Center tube in sender is touching outside tube
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.