Dinette Table, 1985-A27SC

[jhgullett]

IMG_1338web.jpg

Don and Jon B.,
Thank you. It is really helpful to have the dimensions and your assessments of the design and how it works out in real life.
My boat, a 1985 Sport Cruiser has the hull side brackets but the table is missing. It is hard to figure the correct dimensions since the side of the hull slopes inward as it goes down. This means the table shifts towards the middle of the boat as it is lowered. So if I measure from the hull side when the table is up it would end up too long when lowered.
I guess if the table is 1 inch thick, it is plenty stout and heavy enough to not bounce around much and even less with the clever clevis trick.
I'm going to order the brackets and get started on the table. A friend loves to do boat stuff and is itching to make some sawdust so we will have a try at it. (I am not so talented in this area).
The fold-up back rest sound intriguing. I do not have that. My headliner is tan (and black with mildew which will be
attacked shortly) and coming unstuck in parts.
Would love a photo of the fold-up back rest whenever you have a chance. We are expecting a foot of snow tomorrow so it will be a good day to mail order my brackets !
John G
1985 A27SC
Nissan 78 HP LD28

[hetek]

Here's a photo of my dinette table, as promised:

IMG_1665.JPG

Here's the underside with the brackets pinned in place:

Table Brackets.JPG

Here's the Albin table leg. It folds up when the table is lowered and has a spring catch to hold it up. It could easily be substituted with a 7/8" or 1" stainless section of railing and a stanchion base screwed to the table underside as mentioned earlier. Add a rubber foot or crutch tip to the bottom to prevent scratching the floor.

Leg.JPG

Here's the key photo for your table design. This shows the table in its lowered position.

Table Down.JPG

Note how the edges of the table follow the 3 cleats that it rests on. The 4th side to starboard (the bracket side) doesn't rest on anything. Be sure to allow for the table brackets hanging below the table itself. If you make the table too long, the brackets will dig into the interior liner due to the angle of the hull sides. I can shift the table back and forth about 1/4" before it hits the cleat to port and the brackets touch the hull side liner to starboard. Not critical but something to consider. A piece of cardboard or cheap hardboard template would be great to figure this out, before committing to the final design.

Here are the clevis pins that save my wife from falling and me from getting an earful (again!):

Clevis Pins.JPG

Also, don't forget to allow for the teak edges (fiddles?) if you add them too. And the thickness of the laminate...

- Jon B.

[jhgullett]

To Jay, Jon B, Don and Howard,

Guys,

The brackets are on the way and stainless 1/4" clevis pins are available
at the local hardware.

With the dimension and the configuration we are set to start working.
Will start with trial fitting a hardboard template to get it to fit and rest
on the 3 cleats...

As soon as some of this snow settles and I can get to the boat ! Bass
River frozen all the way across the upper river this AM.

Many thanks for all of your information, ideas and encouragement !

John G.
1985 A27SC
Nissan 78 HP LD28

PS: Brackets arrived today !

[don123]

If I was going to build a new table from scratch, I think I'd start with a quality 4 x 8 sheet of 1/4 inch plywood - Birch or oak. Probably cost you $35 or $40

Cut a 2 x 4 foot piece off of one end and trim it until you get it to the desired shape and dimensions you want - Leave it a little too large, maybe 1/4 inch in all dimensions. Making this first 'pattern' from 1/4 ply will make it easier to trim and fit

When you get it fitted to your satisfaction, cut three more pieces the same size and laminate the four together with some wood glue and when it's dry, trim it to the final size on a table saw and round the outer corners with a router or belt sander. Laminate a sheet of Formica on the top and around the sides, add the fiddles and you're all set

If you prefer varnished fiddles, make them out of red oak and they'll stay varnished much longer than teak would and they'll be much cheaper. Lowes sells strips of 1/2 x 2 by 48 red oak and one piece would do both sides - Maybe get another 1/2 x 2 x 24 for the end of the table

Most 1/4 inch ply these days actually measures 7/32nds, so 4 laminated together would yield a 7/8ths thick table before the Formica is added - This would be about the same thickness of the factory original. If you don't prefer the look of Formica, you can stain and varnish the plywood to suit your tastes, which is why I recommended using birch or oak plywood - It will have fewer voids and imperfections than using ordinary ply

Don

[Jay Knoll]

As in many things, there are always alternatives. I think Don's suggestion is simply too much work. Make the hardboard template, but use 3/4" ply for the top. Rough cut the top to within 1/8" and fasten the template to it with double stick tape or screw it in place (after all you are going to cover the surface with Formica). Use a pattern bit in your router
http://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-45487- ... router+bit

This one only cuts 1/2" so after the first cut you remove the template and use the cut you made to finish. If that isn't clear PM me and I'll explain.

You can use the bit to trim the Formica after you've laminated it up.

I like wood that "matches" so if you've got teak in other areas below decks, I think that it would be worth the investment to make teak fiddles. The table is below decks so I don't think you'll have any problem with varnish deterioration -- sun breaks down varnish, not the underlying wood.

Can't wait to see what you come up with!