25 Nac/Anchor lights and switch?

[Sunsetrider]

I am in the process this winter of trying to figure out - and then upgrade - the electrics on my '76 deLuxe. I have no wipers; the port/stbd nav lights don't work and in fact I cannot locate a switch for them; the anchor light and the steaming light on the cabintop stick don't work. The only switch appears to be a bare metal box mounted top-centre windscreen with a switch labelled "anchor light".

I would like to know the set-up for these lights and switches on other A25s so I can figure out the best solution for myself. Obviously I would hope to be able to use the existing conductor routes.

[Sunsetrider]

Not getting a huge response. Hmm. I did figure out the in-place hidden wiring and in the pic below you can see the anchor/steaming light wires at the centre of the windscreen, the port wiper wiring to the left of that, and the port nav light wire exiting through the cabin wall at the bottom of the channel to the left of the windscreen. Since none of these items work I have to figure out the best way to switch them. I want to rip out that grey box with the anchor light switch box and find a more elegant solution.

So again - you other 25-ers, how are your switches for these things located. On a panel? Separate toggles?

[Binford]

I'm not a fellow 25-er, but I do own a boat about the same age as yours. I find the electrics really need a lot of updating. I launched the boat to go fishing in the pre-dawn hours last weekend and discovered my nav lights wouldn't illuminate. Had to wait over an hour at the dock for the sky to lighten up enough before I could get going.

For my wipers, I had separate switches for port and starboard. The switch for the starboard wiper on the panel usually wouldn't work, so I just ran power to a new toggle switch up by the wiper. It always works now.

With the nav lights failing last week, I'm more inclined than ever to just rewire the whole boat. Electrics in salt water environments over 34 years are simply prone to failure and probably should be gone through and redone.

And don't get me started on the electrical "improvements" past owners have contributed to....

[Grahamrfd]

My electrics are all switched from a 6 switch panel with built in fuses. However, like yours, not alot is working at the moment. I had a look a couple of weeks ago and my problem seems to be corrosion in the switches so I guess a new panel is going to be the easiest option, probably with circut breakers instead of fuses. My wipers don't work either, even when bypassing the switch so it looks like replacing the motors.



Graham

[Sunsetrider]

And don't get me started on the electrical "improvements" past owners have contributed to....

Actually, the work done by previoius owners is possibly the only reason I have to redo so much of what is there now. The instruments do work however and I am too terrified to tackle that area.

[Sunsetrider]

My electrics are all switched from a 6 switch panel with built in fuses. However, like yours, not alot is working at the moment. I had a look a couple of weeks ago and my problem seems to be corrosion in the switches so I guess a new panel is going to be the easiest option, probably with circut breakers instead of fuses. My wipers don't work either, even when bypassing the switch so it looks like replacing the motors.
Graham

Graham, it sounds like we all might benefit by sharing the experience.

I have bought an ACR and on-off switch to replace the Perko, and a Promarine battery charger, as well as a crimper and a VOM metre. I've pored over scores of wiring diagrams and tried to imagine how to set up a new system. Seeing your 6-switch panel is the first really concrete info I've gotten on what others have got with their A25. So perhaps that is the way I will go (but with breakers, as you say).

Could you please tell me exactly what you have on each of the 6 circuits, including fuse size for each?

For entertainment I'll post a pic of the front and back of what passes for a panel on my vessel. I don't even know what those things are on the back panel or how one would replace a blown fuse. Assuming they are fuses.

PanelBack.jpg

[Grahamrfd]

I can't remember what fuse ratings my switch panel has and I won't be able to go until next weekend to have a look, but looking at an online chandlers that I use, the same type of panel has a max rating per switch of 15 amps. The circuit breaker panel has different rated breakers fitted, ranging from 3amp up to 10 amp, which I think will cover everything I have. My current panel controls nav lights, anchor light, internal lights and wipers, with bilge pump and horn being on separate switches. I intend to update the current bilge pump setup by fitting a float switch, making it automatic
I have been looking in my loft at home today and found an assortment of electric vents, exhaust alarms and a Lofrans anchor winch ( maybe a bit big for this boat though) which I bought for my last boat but never got round to fitting them, so these might be summer projects this year, assuming we get a summer over here I also found a remote control spot lamp but Im reluctant to make holes in the cabin roof.
Currently Im changing the seacocks for the toilet as the ones I took out were seized and corroded inside.
As you say, we can hopefully both benefit from this, Im always looking for new ideas and there are plenty of those on here.

[Sunsetrider]

Thanks Graham - the info is helpful to me and helps me focus a bit. I have existing switches for electric fuel pump, bilge pump (on-off-auto) and horn. I guess I can put switche(s) for nav/anchor lights and wipers on a panel - (maybe bundle something else with nav if I get LED lights for nav/anchor), and unswitched breakers for fore cabin lights/fan, aft cabin lights/fan, 12V outlets, engine instruments, bilge pump/float switch. That would be a 6 breaker panel with 2 switches on it.

Assembled multitude: Does that make sense?

Lots of other stuff to do as well but for now I'm focused on electric.