Cleaning aftercooler and heat exchanger

[RobS]

Just ordered the Rydlyme to do the flush as soon as I have a weekend off. Cruise temp was starting to stay around 180 and would creep higher at WOT. My only question is the 50/50 mix. If I flush system first with fresh water to check for leaks this will leave fresh water within the system. So do I simply add straight product to the bucket and start the pump? Or do I add some water, and if so how much? I purchased 2 gallons for the Yan 6LPSTP.

After you run fresh water through the cooling loop pull all the zincs and let the coolers drain down. that will get rid of a lot of the water in the loop. Put the zincs cap back in. Then you will be pulling the hose at the raw water pump and the hose to the mixing elbow to make your circulation loop connections. Pulling those 2 hoses will drain some more water. Therefore, I would just mix up the 50/50 and do not worry about what little water may be left in the raw water loop. Be sure to pull the pisser hose off that cools the shaft seal and cap that off. A bolt in a short piece of hose is a simple cap-off method. You can see it in this pic.

[Carl]

Got it Rob. I always wonder how much longer your projects might take due to the amount of photos you take during the process. We all thank you greatly. Marco, thanks for the memories!

[marko]

Sure Bob.

[jleonard]

I say take the heat exchanger off and take it apart to clean it. One thing you want to make sure of is that the heat exchanger CAN come apart. Too many years together and it won't come apart. Then use anti-seize on the bolts for re-assembly.

[Carl]

I planned to do just that over the winter layup. As hot as its been, and with the warm water temps, just dont want any surprises the rest of the season. I know there is a couple of old zincs in there banging around that need to be removed, so will look for them when I do take them apart.

[kjg1951]

You might want to check the temp sending unit first ..... i really think that is my readings were very high . Mechanic have lazer gun that told him what temp the variuos parts of the engine were. The reading were all at 178 yet my temp guage was reading 225 ............ will order a new sending unit

[takoma]

... WOT produced 245-250 degrees......

That is HOT. The 6LP overheat alarm will sound at 210 deg F. I would change the engine coolant once you get the temp straightened out as you have approached the boiling point of a 50/50 mix...

Hi i have same problems with mine 6lp-stp did you try with rydlyme how was it? did get it better
pls let me know or send me an email i apreciate adc229@gmail.com

[RobS]

I did a rydlyme flush many years back, do a search for rydlyme and you will find my posts and others.

[Old School]

The Rydlyme flush works. I dropped about 10*F. Never ran real hot before but I wanted to get closer to spec.
Now WOT and my temp never moves. It used to creep up.

[Nancy]

Time for a followup here.

For those who don't want to go the DIY route, I can highly recommend Niemiec Marine in New Bedford, MA, for ultrasonic cleaning. Marty is great to work with, and even accommodated us driving the aftercooler down and waiting for it to be cleaned. We're so satisfied with the aftercooler that the heat exchanger is going down there this week. In fact, if we were located nearby, we'd be very happy to use their diesel mechanic services.

[Old School]

Time for a followup here.

For those who don't want to go the DIY route, I can highly recommend Niemiec Marine in New Bedford, MA, for ultrasonic cleaning. Marty is great to work with, and even accommodated us driving the aftercooler down and waiting for it to be cleaned. We're so satisfied with the aftercooler that the heat exchanger is going down there this week. In fact, if we were located nearby, we'd be very happy to use their diesel mechanic services.

Just as a heads up to those that may not know...Ultrasonic is really preferred but requires the removal of the exchangers (maybe 4 0r 5 of them) The Rydlyme wash gets everything in one shot without removal.

[Jforesta]

That reminds me Kevin still has my custom made fittings for the rydlyme flush! If you want them I can have him UPS them to you direct.

Packaged up and ready to ship. I thought I'd have a new boat by now to use them on before their return.

Here's a post to a picture of the Rydlyme flush on my 6BTA. Pretty simple set-up and if you pay attention there should be no problems.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5701&p=34136&hilit=Rydlyme#p34136

Rob
Did you get the rydlyme set up back? I would like to borrow if I can.
Joe

[Pitou]

Just as a heads up to those that may not know...Ultrasonic is really preferred but requires the removal of the exchangers (maybe 4 0r 5 of them) The Rydlyme wash gets everything in one shot without removal.

The Rydlyme will not clean the air side of the aftercooler which can accumulate an oily goo. Doing a Rydlyme flush on the aftercooler only cleans the saltwater intake side.

[tego]

Russ and Nancy, Rydlyme is the SAFEST descaler on the market. It's nothing like hydrochloric/muriatic acid that is so casually used by so many others. Hydrochloric can permanently scar your lungs if you get a good sniff of the vapors. Rydlyme on the other hand has no toxic vapors. I used this product in large quantities for cleaning cooling systems in food and drug plants throughout this country. All you have to be really careful of is getting it in your eyes. Always wear safety goggles! Skin contact is to be avoided, but is not dangerous. Just flush with some water. It's definitely the best product to use for descaling a heat exchanger in place and on the boat. Marko remembers pretty well-that's the correct procedure. An old bilge pump can be used-just immerse it in the solution and pump backwards thru the system.Good luck, Ben