Albin 27 FC BECKSON ports & screens

[TCI-Riptide]

Hi, I have a 1980 27 FC with Beckson ports (6 forward) and (4 aft cabin) they have been in UV for a while and are not in the best of shape. I would like to replace them all with new ones, does anyone have model #'s for the two sizes and for screens as well, so ordering becomes easier(?). My vessel is in Turks and Caicos Islands and I will have to carry them with me to the Islands and I don't have the exact sizes with me here. (Vancouver) Thanks !

[AKDW]

the beckson website has good instructions and support for identifying your model numbers. Often it's the seals that need replacing

[eseyoung]

I am going to the boat tomorrow. Mine is an 86' but i THINK they are all the same. Ill look at mine tomorrow and post measurements and model numbers/part numbers.

[Don from Mystic]

I made a replacement set of screens a few years ago. It was easy and cost next to nothing. After removing the best of the lot I carefully removed the gasket and made a template of thin aluminum sheet (I think I used .020 scrap) for the two sizes. I used a vertical belt sander to make the 4 corner radius on each of the two templates. Lay the template on a roll plastic, Hardware store black screen and use a razor blade to follow around the template. Reassemble into the gasket. Took me very little time and I still have the templates should I need them again. The screens are still like new and as good as the origionals. Good Luck

[cork]

I have a 1986 FC.
Defender Marine item no. 900576, Beckson LNZ 512 was the aft cabin ports. I bought smoked lens.
Aft cabin screens, Defender 900144, Beckson SCR 512
Forward cabin screens Defender 900145, Beckson SCR714. This screen should lead you to forward ports.

I replaced my deck hatch with a Bomar 900Series, from west marine no. 117905

[N4QC]

Thanks for the feedback...

Happy Turkey Day,

[SkipRocks]

This is a late reply, but others may benefit from it. I have an '85 27 Express (no rear cabin). I ordered replacement screens and gaskets from Beckson. The plastic lenses were scratched and fogged up. I solved that with headlight lens renewer picked up at my local auto parts store. This was the easy part.

I pulled all six port lights and each had signs of long-term leaking between the inner and outer fiberglass. I cleaned it out as much as possible and then injected resin. I actually became concerned when it took as much as it did, but in the end I filled/sealed it up, replaced the port lights and now not only do they not leak, but I can see out of them and when I open them only the breeze comes through (bugs stay out).

Skip

[JT48348]

Thank you for the parts list, I will be needing that.

I've looked at the diagram on the beckson site and I am still trying to figure the best way to get the portal to come apart. Am I correct in thinking the inside sticks thru the cabin top and an outside piece then bolts the thing together. Once unscrewed, How do I get it apart? Hit the outside with a mallet? Pry the inside with a screwdriver?

Mine are in great shape, don't want to damage them, but need to get them off so I can work on the headliner and interior refit.

thanks

[djblackwood]

Inside and outside are separate pieces not attached to each other in any way. Remove the outside first using Release or DeBond to at least partially dissolve the sealant and carefully pry the frame away from the hull. Then remove as much sealant as possible before gently pushing the port into the cabin to be caught by a waiting crew member. Clean both halves, and the hull inside and out before reinstalling with your sealant of choice in the reverse order everything was removed. I don't recommend silicone sealant because of its shorter life span, neither do I recommend 5200 for the exact opposite reason. The screws are probably #10 x 5/8" pan head Phillips both inside and out which can be difficult to find if you misplace any. 3/4" may be too long in some installations and protrude to the other side. The biggest problem is rotted plywood beneath any ports that leaked that may have to be dug out and/or epoxied particularly if the screws have nothing to bite into when replaced. Replacement parts should be available through Beckson Marine and possibly others if needed.

[tego]

JT, Don't use a hammer! Take the screws out on the inside and then go to work on the outside with a thin, flexible putty knife. It helps if you sharpen an edge of it to help get under the outer ring. Just work around it carefully and gently pry it off. You could probably use a multi-tool also, but make sure the blade is a thin one. After the outer ring is off, then slip a sharp, narrow blade into the gap where the port comes thru the hull. That should be all the caulk that's holding the port in, and it should push inward easily. When you replace it, DON'T caulk the inside flange- just the screws inside. Good luck, Ben

[JT48348]

wheeew good thing i asked. i will follow your advice and report back

thanks again

[sail149]

If you haven't replaced your ports read the Beckson instructions.
They should be thru bolted. The cheap installation by Albin was a hugh mistake that we all are living with.
The plywood in the sides could not hold the screws tight enough to keep the window sealed against fiberglass.
This then lead to the plywood quickly rotting and the windows getting loser, further rot of wood holding the liner on , mold and so it goes!
The Beckson windows are supposed to be thru bolted and the trim ring added over the top of the screws.
The cabin sides need the plywood replaced or made solid in some way before bolting tight.
http://www.beckson.com/installport.html
Best sealant is butyl tape , good for everything it never hardens is sticks to the fiberglass and it's easy to use.
Forget silicone.....
Warren
Ps the only time you can use screws is in solid wood or metal cabin side and bolts are always better.

[JT48348]

I'm with you a hundred percent. I was wondering if the screw holes lined up for thru-bolting. Also would you recommend a bolt and then an acorn nut on inside? I'm assuming the porthole plywood needs to be checked and reparied with epoxy first.

[JT48348]

I followed all your advice and got the portals off no problem. I was able to begin removing the headliner in the aft cabin. What a mess. Portals were obviously leaking in a few places. The upper part of the cabin top sides is plywood, not entire glassed, and so there is water damage.

Has anyone thru-bolted. I looked but don't think the holes line up between interior and exterior trim rings?

If you ever wondered what it looked like behind the headliner, here's some pics:

[johnvb1014]

Those photos look familiar. We redid our ports and replaced headliner on our 27 FC. There is a post about it on 12/13/11. We did not through bolt. Basically followed what was done originally, perhaps because the holes were already drilled, can't recall exactly. The rot in the plywood is difficult to deal with, and in the end I don't think I had done it as good as it should have been, but not for lack of trying. It is just really hard to fill all the voids with whatever you are using. But if not filled well it does impact the fit of the screws on replacement. Perhaps a good reason to consider through-bolting.

The tack strips along the bottom of our aft cabin were rotted and I removed and replaced them. In the end I caulked around the outside of the ports when done. I know you are not supposed to do this, but the cost of failure with any subsequent leaks is so high in terms of damage and time and energy to fix I decided to live with the caulk. The headliner still looks like new.

Since completion, at one point I had noted a small leak in the aft cabin which drove me crazy thinking the ports might be leaking. It turned out to be a pinhole on the ridge along the gunwale, so be sure to check for exterior for leaks as well.

Good luck, its a tough job.

John VB