A25 winterize engine

[Sunsetrider]

I realize this topic seems to have been covered in the Maintenance section, but the discussions over there mostly address enclosed cooling systems. Manatee operates in fresh water strictly on an open system. The winterizing procedures in the various manuals that I have seen make no reference to adding antifreeze (whether pink, orange or green) but rather suggest blowing water out by running the engine for under one minute with the intake disconnected (or, presumably, when on land after haulout).

Those of you with sea-water cooling, what do you do in this respect?

[Sunsetrider]

OK, so for my first haulout I have come with the following list. Looking for verification or correction:

IN WATER
- Change engine oil
- Change reverse gear oil
- Change oil filter
- Flush and Pump out holding tank
- Pump RV antifreeze through toilet system
- Flush and pump bilge
- Put RV antifreeze in bilge, pump though system
- Drain and replace fuel filters

ON LAND
- Drain water from engine (sea-water cooled):
o Disconnect intake hose
o Open exhaust and engine sea cocks and let water drain
o Start and run engine 30 seconds, rev to 1500 in bursts
- Open bilge plug
- Remove batteries
- Install dehumidifier tub
- Check anode
- Remove injector for pro inspection?
- Check belts

[DougSea]

I don't have a seawater cooled system, but reading the above makes me wonder about your impeller. I'm assuming you have one, and I know I try to never run mine dry.

Also, whether or not they say in the boat, make sure your batteries are fully charged to prevent damage from freezing.

Do you have a fresh water system? That will need to be winterized as well. Washdown system? Baitwell?

Once the boat is on the hard also check for any spot that trap water (on our 35 it's the corners of the cockpit and the deck drains. Put a little anti-freeze there as well.)

And a quick coat of wax now will make life easier in the spring...

[Sunsetrider]

Thx for the reply Dougsea. There is no fresh water system (to be clear, my "sea water" is fresh) nor any another water system besides the head itself As I bought the boat in August I decided to wait until next Spring to use the fresh water holding tank and sink. I have a spot ready in my pump room at home with a Battery Tender Plus for battery maintenance. I may have to invest in a full size smart charger, not sure about that.

The manual for the MD11C/MD17C suggests running the engine for not less than one minute (lest the impeller be damaged) with intake seacock closed whenever there is a danger of frost. Having said that, it would make sense to check the impeller condition after doing that.

[RobS]

I would not do the run dry method. Running an impeller dry is not good plus you are better off having that coolant loop filled with the proper antifreeze for anti-corrosion purposes rather than having the metals exposed to air.

I would recommend doing the fuel filter after spring start-up. Fire her up in the spring, check all systems are go and then swap the fuel filter(s).

Not sure how big your exhaust port is but stuff a rag or something in it to keep anything from nesting within.

[DougSea]

Not sure how big your exhaust port is but stuff a rag or something in it to keep anything from nesting within.

I forgot that one! Good catch. All kinds of creatures like to nest in holes on boats. Uncovering the exhausts is one of the last things I do in the spring.

[Sunsetrider]

OK, good. As for the antifreeze, I am thinking the pink RV stuff is OK - although I do have some of the orange Dex in my garage. What's the best method to get it into the engine?

[RobS]

The cheaper RV pink antifreeze you would buy in hthe local hardware store is good for all but the engine. Not all pink antifreeze is engine rated, they will say not for use in engines, etc. Here's an example: http://www.hardwarestore.com/artic-ban- ... 31524.aspx

For the engine get the better stuff from a marina, marine supply, etc. West Marine has a few choices.

As far as application, I am not familiar with your raw water cooling setup. Do you have a strainer with a cover that you can open and pour the antifreeze in while idling the engine? You can run a hose from the impeller housing to a bucket or you could pump it through the engine (after the impeller housing) with a pump in a bucket setup.

If you have the strainer check this out for ideas and a visual http://www.seaflush.com/

[Sunsetrider]

Thanks Rob.

[BCboater]

You might want to consider a flushing system as described in my post "Fresh Water Flushing Valve Setup", November 2013. I use that to run non-toxic antifreeze solution through the raw water side of the cooling system to winterize it. This avoids possible damage to the impeller by running dry and ensures there are no trapped areas of plain which might freeze and cause damage.