V-berth Filler Board

[Sunsetrider]

I need to fabricate the support board to fill in the V for sleeping. I am going to use a piece of 3/8 ply I have around home. For those who have theirs still, I would like to know how the OEM piece is designed to fit into place. The only thing I can come uo with is to attach a 1/2 x 1/2 strip on the 3 interior walls to form a ledge to seat the board on.

[Robdog.1]

Let me know how you do it,I was going to use 2-3 boards so I can stow them under port berth.

[NickScheuer]

In our Albin-25 the V-berth filler is also the cockpit table, as well as the forward cabin table (berths serving as seats). The verth insert/table is heavy and cumbersome, so we don't have it aboard anymore. I've made a set four 3/4" Cedar planks (lightweight) which rest on narrow ledges added to the exposed flanks of the v-berths, supporting the planks at the same elevation as the berths themselves. The widest plank is reinforced with a cross-member on the underside, which locks into a notches in the ledges so it won't slide out.

The 4 planks stow under one of the berths.

This winter I will make a smaller, lighter table for the cockpit which will be stowed in the aft cabin.

Nick

[Robdog.1]

Nick,
That's exactly what I envisioned. I have a cockpit table that stows in the head an attaches to aft cabin door when in use.
I figure 3-4 boards with a ledge board would work. Can you post pics of yours? No reason to reinvent the wheel!

[NickScheuer]

Will do, Robdog. I'll be in the boat tomorrow.

[Sunsetrider]

2013-08-09 16.42.39.jpg

I also have the ironing-board-shaped cockpit table, which also serves as a table in the cabin. It stores in the head and I am quite good with that. I would love to use it as the filler board as well but I could never get it to fit appropriately there. Which is odd because it is clearly the original piece. Nick - - - > I will post a pic of it and maybe you can tell me if it is the same shape as the one you have removed.

[NickScheuer]

Trying again with some pics.

The longest board has reinforcing crossmembers, one on the bottom, one on the top serving as a rail to retain the cushion. The bottom reinforce locks into the pair of spaces you see on the ledges supporting the boards.

Our boat came with no trapezoidal cushion, so we had one made when ordering new upholstery. The original foam was augmented with 1" of firmer foam.

[NickScheuer]

OPPSS! Only one photo of three posted! Here is one of the others.

[NickScheuer]

The ends of the bunk boards were rabbeted on their bottom side in order for the ledges to be a bit thicker, and mounted with full contact on the original berth edge retainer rails.

All of the boards stow easily in one of the compartments down by the sole.

[NickScheuer]

Sunsetrider: Here is a pic of our Cockpit Table/Forward Berth Inser/Forward Cabin Table. I believe it is original equipment. There is also a length of stainless tube which is first inserted into a hole in the forward berths for supporting the end of the table when set up in the forward cabin. We thought it a PIA, especially considering its weight.

Our new forward berth boards are much lighter, and my new idea for a smaller cockpit table will also be much lighter.

Nick

[NickScheuer]

In the pic of the table, above, you can see a Bronze socket for receiving the upper end of the stainless tube leg when serving as a table in the forward cabin.

[DougSea]

Good write up Nick, and nice pictures. Thanks for posting.

(If you want multiple pictures in a single post you just attach them all and then position the cursor in you post where you want each one to go and click "place inline" on each one. You need to repeat the placement step for each photo.)

[RobS]

Thumbs up

[Sunsetrider]

Nick - clearly your OEM table is a very different shape than ours. I trimmed and stained a length of doweling for the forward table support, and for the V-insert I have cut a piece of 3/8 ply and some L- trim for support since I do not have the carpentry skills to fabricate anything more elaborate. I hope the rig supports our weight.

[NickScheuer]

If your 3/8" plywood flexes too much, you can easily add a couple of 1" x 2 (3/4" x !.5") cross members underneath. They needn't extend all the way out to the edges resting on the L-molding.