Steering Issues

[kmary]

(Post split by Admin, topic change - OP question was availability of 28 TE diagrams)

Are these still available? I am having some steering issues and would love to check them out?

[DougSea]

Are these still available? I am having some steering issues and would love to check them out?

Hi Kmary,

The drawings listed above are in the "library" which is reserved for supporting members. Buy a hat or a burgee and you're in for life. It's the only time John charges and the price helps offset the cost of running AOG.

That said, what kind of steering issues are you having? I'm not certain the schematics will help, they serve as a great reference point but each Albin seems to be somewhat unique.

Any questions just let me know.

[kmary]

All in on a Burgee or two!

As for steering, it seems to be slowly getting stiffer and stiffer. No skipping or looseness, and my fluid level is good.

[DougSea]

As for steering, it seems to be slowly getting stiffer and stiffer. No skipping or looseness, and my fluid level is good.

Have you tried disconnecting the cylinder from the rudder tiller arm and moving the rudder and steering independently?

[kmary]

Pulled the arm off the rudder and it was as if I had done nothing! So great advice, isolated the problem to the SeaStar steering. Next I attempted to bleed out any air. There did not seem to be any, but I did notice the fluid was pretty nasty, and red, from all the times I had topped it off with Auto Tranny fluid in a pinch. Next I replaced all the fluid with new SeaStar stuff.... No Luck still stiff as can be, but when replacing fluid or bleeding, the wheel spun with a single finger, so I think my issue is in the cylinder (although there is no pitting or anything that is too obvious). I am considering replacing it with the next size up, like another post had recommended, 5314 rather than the stock 5312. Anyone done this?

[RockHall]

Very interested to see how this works out for you. Having the same issue with ours. I tried bleeding and topping off but it did nothing.

[kmary]

I found the 5314 for under $400 online and will hopefully install it later this week. I will take a few photos and report back.

[kmary]

Huge Success!!!!

First of and foremost, anyone with stiff steering or replacing their steering should make the move to the 5314. Why the boat did not come with this cylinder stock is a mystery! Full disclosure, my cylinder was passed its prime and had unfortunately been topped off with Automatic Transmission fluid more than once in a pinch (by me), but that said I don't believe my steering ever felt easy (even before the ATF). Completely different steering with the 5314, the other post regarding this change being power steering like, was not kidding!

The switch was a piece of cake, the mounting plate bolt patterns are identical so its as simple as unbolt, disconnect, replace, connect, bolt down, refill and bleed. 5314 comes with everything you need except fluid, even a handy filling tube. I attached a few pics of how I rigged up the oil (with included tube) so I could bleed the system solo (although I did end up convincing my wife to sit at the helm for a few minutes and spin the wheel to speed things up). The only difference is 4.5 turns vs. 6.5 turns with the 5314. Make sure to use the correct SeaStar fluid. Sorry for not rattling off more pics, I was pressed for time and wanted to go boating. Entire repair took roughly 1 hour.

When all was said and done we took a cruise 10 miles offshore and I was spinning the wheel effortlessly with one finger at all speeds. For cruising I actually think the 6.5 turns helps eliminate over compensation at the helm and makes for a more pleasant driving experience. At the dock there was no issue, yes 6.5 turns was noticeable, but the ease of spinning the wheel with one finger out weighed any possible inconvenience of a turn or two more. Again, I can not believe the boat does not come stock with this!

[DougSea]

Great to hear that you had success with your repair! Thanks for posting the details, I'm sure others will follow you down this path.

[Pitou]

Huge Success!!!!

Anyone with stiff steering or replacing their steering should make the move to the 5314. Why the boat did not come with this cylinder stock is a mystery!

Unfolding the Mystery ... maybe

I just replaced the cylinder for AOG memebr Michael from Maine who is subletting my slip for the summer until I find the next boat. He had the HC5312 and had the seal kit replaced a few weeks earlier and low and behold the seals let go again on him for a second time.

The 28 TE is a semi displacement / semi planing hull. I checked out the cylinder sizing chart on the Teleflex / Sea Star website and low and behold ... the HC5312 is sized for up to a 26 ft. single inboard engine "planing hull" ... thanks Albin! Maybe Albin was thinking with the 28TE having 24 ft. of waterline it was adequate ... who knows. The HC5313 is sized for a 26 ft. full displacement hull or a 32 ft. planing hull. The HC5314 is sized for a 32 ft. full displacement or a 38 ft. planing.

As the 28TE is semi displacement / semi planing, we chose the HC5313 which is adequately in the range, but the HC5314 would have been super bullet proof in the 28TE. 2 quarts of Sea Star oil some never seize on the mounting bolts / 5 1/2 turns lock to lock and things are good.

[jms02050]

Resurrecting an old thread since the topic is spot on... Long story short (sort of).

Problem: Albin 28 with a leaking 5312 cylinder. Replaced with a 5314 but it's stiff to turn the helm - more so than the 5312 that I replaced.

Troubleshooting: Disconnected cylinder from rudder post. This is interesting - with the rudder post disconnected from the cylinder the steering is still very stiff AND I noticed that the rudder post itself is hard to move, especially to starboard.

Regarding the helm, I've bled it and without the cylinder connected I'd expect to be able to turn it easily with 1 finger as described above, yet it's pretty stiff - differently need a hand or 2. Assumed a new, bigger cylinder would make it super easy to turn, but the opposite has happened.

Regarding the rudder, wonder if it's possible that it's just got some pressure on it b/c of the way the boat is blocked with the nose high for drainage? Otherwise what could it be? Note that the rudder post stuffing box hasn't been touched.

It's freezing out - coldest day of the year in sunny Massachusetts - but i highly doubt that would cause the stiffness in the helm.

Any ideas regarding either issue? For the helm, I'm wondering if I got a bad cylinder but it seems unlikely. Maybe air is trapped and needs further bleeding, but it's not notchy, and I'm no longer able to get any air from the system.

I'm scratching my head on this one.

[Tree]

Any moisture in the oil - possibly frozen due to the weather?

[jms02050]

New oil, so I wouldn't think so.

[RobS]

There are 4 major components to the system: Helm pump - tubing - cylinder - rudder. I would isolate all from one another and then see where your problem(s) lie...

[recppd]

I brought my 19x19 LH Teignbridge prop up to H&H Propeller in Salem, MA today for reconditioning. It's the original prop on my 2004 28 FD and it needed some minor repairs. H&H machined most of the Albin 28 shafts, rudders and props that we all have in our boats today. My prop was even stamped with H&H and their serial number, and yours is probably too (edge of hub). We even agreed it was best to bring it down to a 19 x 18 pitch to boost the RPMs and put less load on the Yanmar 315. Apparently, Albin did this with the last year's models of 28's.

I also asked about my rudder because my boat has the big barn door version, not the smaller one. At high speeds its hard to turn, which wears on the Sea Star cylinder. My next move is to remove the rudder and have it reshaped to the smaller version for easier steering. As it was explained to me, the current rudder doesn't have enough counter balance in the front, meaning it doesn't have the approx. 18% of rudder it needs aft of the rudder shaft to counter balance the prop wash. This is why steering can be very difficult or 28 owners at higher speeds. The fix is to cut down the rudder to make up for the lack in the front. Now all I have to do is figure out how to successfully dismantle the rudder and shaft from the skeg...