Boat zincs (.com)

[jleonard]

I don't know how many of you have heard of or use http://www.boatzincs.com but I have to give them big KUDOS
I have been using them for a few years now, and their free shipping on orders over $100 is awesome. And their service is better than outstanding.
I just ordered a gallon of bottom paint and all my zincs yesterday afternoon.
They were delivered this morning! during the snowstorm.

How can you beat that? Less than 24 hours

[RobS]

DITTO, haven't bought a zinc anywhere else in over 5 years, that includes engine and hull.

[Pitou]

I've been on this train for a long time as well / engine, gen-set, rudder, trim tabs, prop nut & bow thruster . Ordered my zincs from them at the Boston Boat Show this year. Having a couple of thruster zincs in reserve my order totaled about $ 85.00 / $ 15 short of the $ 100 minimum to receive free shipping. The owner said close enough for free shipping for a loyal customer as he pulled my previous orders up on his laptop. They arrived in one day via UPS.

A few years back at the show I said how it sure would be nice if the thruster zinc included a new stainless steel prop nut. They thought that was a good idea too and low and behold; future thruster zincs had ss prop nuts in the packaging. There's a company that showed that they care about customer relationships and actually consider ideas that hit the suggestion box. Very nice.

Fantastic pricing as well!

[Nancy]

Great to know! Thanks for posting.

[Old School]

Just a +1 I've been using them for a while. For my boat and one I take care of. Good outfit!!

[kirley]

Just thinking, were is a good place to buy zincs---BAMB-- you guys rock!

[halfmoon]

Ordered my zincs and they arrived pronto. But, when removing the old zincs, two out of the four I removed resulted in a bolt removed and zinc rod remains still in place. It looked like a piece of chalk in the opening. No room around it to allow extraction with needle nosed pliers. Anyone else had that experience? Should I try a vacuum on it? Suggestions please.

[rellwood]

For fresh water boat anodes, not engine, magnesium is recommended. I can find source for rudder & trim tab magnesium anodes (Martyr), but am unable to source a magnesium limited clearance anode for the 1 1/2" shaft. The LC dimensions would be 1 1/2" dia x 3" OD x 1 1/4" length. Presently fitted with a zinc LC. 2002 28TE with Yanmar and I think zinc anodes were installed at time of manufacture. Any assistance would be appreciated. Boating in the Great Lakes.

[Gunny]

Have used them for a couple of years. Great product and speedy service. Prices are very good!

[amber jj]

Val and I took a drive down in December,just shy of 1200 miles return.Great store,great staff,and best of all we came home with what we were after,at a reasonable price.

[Serenity]

Since the engine is only 4 years old with less than 200 hours I had spot checked the anodes and saw nothing crazy. I decided to have all the anodes replaced at winter haul out. Glad I did.

[RobS]

[Pitou]

Since the engine is only 4 years old with less than 200 hours I had spot checked the anodes and saw nothing crazy. I decided to have all the anodes replaced at winter haul out. Glad I did.

Yikes! Rule of thumb, replace when at 50%. Way overdue. Degradation of the anodes has nothing to due with hours. I have 2 that tend to degrade sooner than the others and one of them occasionally gets changed out mid-season ... the one at the bottom of my aftercooler.

I've found that the winterizing antifreeze can degrade them quickly if they sit in a bath of it over the winter. I remove them from the brass plugs at decommissioning and replace in the spring. I have a couple that tend to degrade

[ScubaPete]

I agree with Kevin that the zinc at the bottom of the aftercooler (on a Cummins 6BTA) wears out faster than the others. It just sits in salt water for hours upon hours. A fresh water flush will help, but it will still be sitting it water all the time. The zinc at the top of the after cooler will last much longer since it is only exposed to salt water while the engine is running. If the anode at the top of the aftercooler is the one you check (because it is the easiest to get to !), then you will have a false sense of security about the other zincs.

[RobS]

Same deal with the 6LP, the zinc on the heat exchanger cap is a PITA to get to and always the one most in need of replacement. Here's the line-up after a routine replacement. The end ones are new for comparison purposes. The heat exchanger cap zinc is far right.

John,
How do we electronically throw rotten tomatoes at Max ?