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windlass installation fit check
Moderator: Jeremyvmd
windlass installation fit check
the under side of the bowsprit from my 28 te...
the middle photo is the windlass... the fiberglass bowsprit itself is maybe 3/8" thick. pretty flimsy.
the wood and the metal backing plate still need some more trim. the wood will be sealed or painted. the stainless bolts are obviously too long. no big deal. might find a section of pvc piping with a 3" outside diameter to line the hole for the chain. no stress on... its only for anti chaffing.
still have to drill a 3" hole in the top of the anchor well. the pvc will extend slightly into the hole in the anchor well
...
...
the middle photo is the windlass... the fiberglass bowsprit itself is maybe 3/8" thick. pretty flimsy.
the wood and the metal backing plate still need some more trim. the wood will be sealed or painted. the stainless bolts are obviously too long. no big deal. might find a section of pvc piping with a 3" outside diameter to line the hole for the chain. no stress on... its only for anti chaffing.
still have to drill a 3" hole in the top of the anchor well. the pvc will extend slightly into the hole in the anchor well
...
...
- DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Looks nice Tomcat!
I may look to swap out my vertical windlass for a horizontal like yours. I have a problem with the rode not always feeding down into the locker smoothly. Given how much that's likely to cost I'll first look to replace my rode with a braided one.
Where did you decide to mount the cleat for your rode? Big no-no to leave the strain on the windlass!
I may look to swap out my vertical windlass for a horizontal like yours. I have a problem with the rode not always feeding down into the locker smoothly. Given how much that's likely to cost I'll first look to replace my rode with a braided one.
Where did you decide to mount the cleat for your rode? Big no-no to leave the strain on the windlass!
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
where did you put your cleat?
i took a look at several albin 28's for sale at various websights to get some ideas, but i haven't seen any good photos of anchor cleats on the foredeck.
- DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Mine is mounted next to the windlass on the bowsprit. I posted this picture in another thread:
If you don'h have room for something like this you could make up a bridle that goes to your bow cleats, tie a bowline in your rode and take the load off of the windlass that way.
If you don'h have room for something like this you could make up a bridle that goes to your bow cleats, tie a bowline in your rode and take the load off of the windlass that way.
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 238
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 4:04 pm
- Location: Ottawa Canada
Windlass Installation Report
My windlass installation is incomplete because we started after the boat was hauled and then I had to close up for the winter. We did get the holes drilled and the windlass mounted (Lewmar 1000), including foot switches on the bow as well as a hand switch and breaker at the helm, and the electrics done so we know it works. Like Tomcat Rio I have a three inch hole for the chain and the plan was to line the hole with three inch OD PVC pipe but we could not find any! My installer promised to make up a three inch OD cylinder over the winter and complete the install in the spring befor launching.
John Murray...Albin 30FC..."katie G"...Ottawa Canada
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 544
- Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:28 pm
- Location: Mystic, CT
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 114
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 7:44 am
- Location: Virginia Beach,va
transition
I have about 20' of chain and 300 ' of line. Occasionaly I'll have the line slip out of the wildcat, but that's probably poor handling (speed) of the windlass. Almost every windlass I've seen in these parts have both chain and line. You Definitly need the chain to create a drag on the hook. The more the better, in my humble albinion.
AlMar
AlMar
flush cleat in the track on the bow sprit?
i wonder if something like this might be installed in the track on the bowsprit foward of the windlass to secure the anchor line.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/172/4046 ... 71a510.jpg
http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/produc ... &cat=61401
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/172/4046 ... 71a510.jpg
http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/produc ... &cat=61401
chafe protection
well, i'm a pretty competent electrical expert and never worried about wiring chaffing.med2alfa wrote:Tomcat,
I would also add some chafe protection for the power cables running through the wood and metal backing plates, but you already know that.
Mike
...
BTW, its a little know fact that electrical components actually work on smoke and when a wire fails what really happens is the smoke leaks out.
...
here's an example of my exceptional work. all the folks at the marina tell me they are absoultely amazed. its really hard to be humble sometimes.
- DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Re: chafe protection
That's a thing of beauty right there! I'm hoping to reach this pinnacle of technical sophistication one day!tomcat rio wrote:
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"