Installing a Windlass - From Scratch

[Chris & Dale]

So, I got Steel Hers back to Southport, NC, and as is always the case you've got a list of projects to do, some small, others big. I've put a pretty good dent in the list: live well, GPS/Chartplotter, replacing electronic compass with a regular one, fix fresh water tank leak, downrigger installation. I consciously saved the biggest for last....what was I thinking? Anyway, I didn't have one and with my wife and I both having had several spinal surgeries, I thought it a must. I consulted w/Ken Hilton at Standish Boat Yard who was my buyer's broker and extremely knowledgable of Albins, as testified to on this board. Ken highly recommended the Lewmar 700 Pro Fish, so I searched long and hard and found the best deal on-line. Originally, I was going to pay a local boat yard guy to do it, but in the end I decided to take on the task myself as it would be a great way to learn a lot more about the boat. So again w/excellent advice from Ken I began.

I started taking the starboard side wire track apart (those 4" strips w/the buttons) from the anchor locker thru the cabinet, hanging locker, bathroom, and from there up into the backpanel of the dash. I then fed a short run of #8 red & black cable, along with a 3 wire 16 gage strand up from the back of the bathroom into the back panel and pulled about 10 of the 30' of wire thru. Then I fed the rest forward, tie wrapping onto already run wires out into the anchor locker, and replaced those panels.

Then I installed the contactor box in the backpanel area in a convenient location to work on. I installed the breaker below my bow thruster control on the left of the wheel. I installed the control switch just below the lighter outlet on the right side. I like seperation interactive switches. A pleasant surprise was that right next to the breaker is a straight shot down to the battery area.

Now the biggie, placement and installation of the windlass itself. Follow the instructions from Lewmar to the letter when laying out your template to drill your holes.....remember, measure twice-cut once. "Forewarned is Prepared" That is one hugely thick bow pulpit....6 1/2" thick. Be prepared to drill the 3" hole as deep as you can, chisel out that 3" and drill again....repeating until you break thru. It was incredible. I had some moisture in the wood which I let air out for a couple of days, then applied West System Expoxy to the side of the 3" chain hole to smooth it out and seal it, and then with a very long bit, drilled the 3/8" holes for the 3 studs and wires. About those studs....they won't work. Go ahead in the beginning and order 3' of 8mm 1.25 pitch metric all thread stock. Using the metric nuts supplied, measure 7 1/2" (I did 8" and had way too much), put it in your vice, put a new blade in your hacksaw, and saw off your 3 sections. Tip-when you take it out of the vice, work the nut on and off on the cut end a couple of times and then lightly file. I used locktite when I put the studs in, just to help with them not backing out. I used 4000 around all hold and followed the edge pattern of the rubber gasket as well. If your prep and cut was right, the windlass will slide right down. I used oversized washers and nylon s/s lock nuts. Torgue it down, clean up the 4000, and the final task is wiring it up in the anchor locker. Notice I said in the anchor locker as it's about 6" short of actually getting into the boat. I spliced, rubber taped each, rubber taped the whole thing, and then tie-wrapped straight back (to stay out of the way of the rode) and towards the starboard to existing wire runs. You're ready.

I have to say that I did buy the Lewmar 14 lb. Delta Anchor and the 10" chair/150' rode Lewmar recommended on the box. You will be amazed at how this feeds the rode into the locker in a perfect spiral and you can't even tell when it feeds the transition thru and picks up the chain. I couldn't be happier. Oh, did I mention I'll turn 62 in November. Here's some of the key pictures:

[RobS]

Nice job and write up. I installed a Profish 700 ff from scratch last month. That 3" hole saw was like digging for oil! Foot switches are nice too, you may consider adding them.

[jcollins]

Thanks for sharing both the description and photos. It looks like you saved 6-8 hours of labor on this one and you learned a few things along the way. I do envy you "DIY" guys.

[Chris & Dale]

Rob & John. Yeah, that's why I ran the wires for them and they're staged at both ends. Taking into account my lack of experience with this job, I'd say a pro would still take a good 12 hours. It is a big job. I think the biggest benefit for me was new boat knowledge. I hope the write-up & pics will help others as this board has helped me so far!

[RobS]

Chris, hope you don't mind but because I did the same install last month and have some photos I am going to add to this thread to offer some more info for future searchers.

It appears you had the sampson post on the pulpit supplied by Albin. They did a real pis-poor job on sealing that, my pulpit wood core was damp too. They sealed the base of the post to the pulpit, but the 4 modified carraige bolts were not sealed to the base of the post. Due to the nature of my work I have access to commercial drying equipment and ran this axial fan for a week and got the moisture out:

drying the pulpit core.jpg

For the foot switches I drilled a slightly oversized hole and then built it back up with epoxy just too tight for the switches to slide in. Then I sanded the holes until the switches slid in snug and used LifeSeal to set them in place, nice and tight and no screws needed. Completely water proof. I added labels to the underside of the lids for when they are open. I installed them more forward then you usually see them to keep them more out of the way.

foot switches.jpg

Here's a few other shots. The contactor photo I took before I ran the grounds. The inline fuse is for the foot switches. I already had 600ft of 3 strand so I bought 50ft of 1/4" G4 from Defender and made my own splice, works evertime (so far). I think tapering the leading edge is the key to the splice feeding properly. I did take 200ft of line out, it was too much with the 50ft of chain piled on it.

[Nancy]

Chris and Rob,

Great explanations of your projects! I have a question for both of you. I don't see a cleat or Sampson post near the windlass. When at anchor, where do you cleat off the anchor line? Or do you just leave the line running straight out from the windlass? We've always preferred to cleat off to remove the strain from the windlass, but we don't have a properly situated cleat on our boat - just the two bow cleats which sit kind of far back from the bow for this use. I don't really like the way the boat rides using these for the anchor line.

Our boat is equipped with an old but mostly working Simpson-Lawrence 500. It's awaiting installation of a new gypsy, which is sitting on the dinette table. We replaced a tiny Danforth, 10' chain, and very nasty line with a 22 lb. Rocna, 20' - 1/4" G4 chain, and 200' line. I made the splice (had done this on our previous boat as well) and there are no problems with it. My husband fabricated a taller anchor keeper/loop, but it needs a little more tweaking -- you still have to go forward when deploying because the anchor shank gets stuck. Retrieval is usually no problem except one time, the anchor came up upside down. A swivel would be nice, but dang, those are pricey.

Chris, I chuckled at the line secured to the railing stanchion and leading forward. I know what that's for! In the absence of a proper anchor pin, we're continuing to use a line to tie off the anchor. I'd never want that baby to let go by itself!

[RobS]

I always cleat off. No need to add a cleat or post. My anti chaf is a section of sanitation hose with a slice in it.

[Nancy]

Rob, ah, thanks for the photo as always. We've previously cleated off from ahead of the bow roller - in other words, a straight run from the anchor to the cleat to eliminate chafe on the roller and elsewhere. Your approach looks like a good compromise given the setup.

[N4QC]

Chris & Dale

Excellent install, pictures and narrative on your windlass installation.

Heads up – The picture from the anchor locker of the wiring and the threaded rod studs is not clear as to how much space there is between the wiring and one of the studs. The concern is that the wiring could be subject to chafing.

Enjoy,

[DougSea]

Very nice!

The photos of the starboard side covers removed brought back memories of my various wiring projects in our 28. I really loved that boat!

[loubennett]

Two comments. Rob, thanks for the picture showing the rode led to the bow cleat. It looks good and gave me another idea. I'm thinking of using a snatch block to redirect the rode from almost directly behing the windlass to the bow cleat, resulting in a straighter lead to the bow roller. The snatch block position would be adjusted with a line to the opposite bow cleat. Sort of an expensive approach, but as a former sailor I have several snatch blocks in my spare parts stash.

My other comment has to do with power for the windlass. When I had mine installed, they tapped the power for the windlass from the power leads for the bow thruster. This requires a control relay for the windlass, but you need that anyway if you have controls at both the helm and on the fordeck. Doing this meant there was no need to run a second set of heavy gauge wires from the battery switch both simplifying the installation and reducing cost. I think this is acceptable since I never use the windlass and the bow thruster at the same time. I also opted for a wired remote that is stored in the chain locker instead of foot switches. I've seen too any foot switches fail due to constant exposure on a horizontal surface. Just a couple of thoughts for those who may tackle this project in the future.

[Chris & Dale]

Lou,
At one point I'd also thought of putting the contactor box in the forward compartment where the bow thruster is, but that also houses my A/C unit and didn't want to expose it to the associated moisture. Am really very happy with the contactor behing the back panel where there's easy access. I do like the idea of the wired remote in the chain locker and have the wires already run. Thanks.
Joe,
Good catch. I'll investigate this weekend and deal w/any potential chafe issues.

This forum is great!

[standishboat]

A Cleat is an easier option .Should be installed port side ,forward of winch .The pain of the install is the thru bolting of 7.5 '' stainless bolts ,but will extend the life of the windlass and its clutch assembly.

Ken Hilton,III, Standish Boat Yard

PS.Great job Chris am proud of you!!!!

[Nancy]

Hi Ken -

Nice to see you here! We talked on the phone last week about rudders and such.

[Denis]

It looks like you did a beautiful job and it is a tough one to boot.
I saw something on an older Mainship a few years ago that I thought it was a good idea. The battery for the windless was in a small hatch right under the V-berth. That reduced the length of the heavy power cable to a minimum and also the resulting voltage drop. All that needs to run up there is the wire for the battery charger and Im sure you could even eliminate that if you install the charger right next to the battery. I thought it made for a much simpler install and it saved a few bucks as well.. Denis